MicrobeHunter.com Microscopy Forum

Do you have the dome case?

Not a problem The wedges are captured by the upper 3mm hex bolts. They can be lowered or raised which will tilt the stage and condenser block back or forwards. If they aren’t set correct, not only will your stage be on an angle, but the condenser will also push the light path away from the centre op...

Removing the center plate won’t reveal much, just the other sides of the dovetails. There should be four phillips head screws that you should see through the top of the photo port, these will remove the port. Yes, just removing the four (2 already visible, 2 under port) flat head screws will allow y...

That’s good news As expected, removing the photo tube will reveal two more flat head screws. Removing all four flat head screws will allow you to remove the prism assembly from the head box frame. You don’t have to remove the image path selector knob as that assembly will stay with the frame. Removi...

Are there two flat head screws on top of the head? If so, there will be two more under the camera port (port needs to be removed to access). The silver image path selector knob needs to be removed as well from memory, it’s on a spline and should just pull off. A picture of both top and bottom would ...

Hi Fred, Regarding lubricants, I use only what the factory suggest. One of the original lubricants used is actually still available being Kluber Nontrop KR 291 (Leitz called it 410), it goes green and hard over time. I have to order it by the Kg, though that may due to my local distributor. Only a f...

The Orthoplan focus is extremely complex, rebuilding is something that takes lengths of training and supervising to become comfortable with. To remove the focus block, which is the Z-axis liner bear block along with coarse/fine focus system, there are 4x 3mm hex head screws. Removing this block will...

Does adjusting the height of the condenser take it in and out of focus? If so, most likely on mirror or lens close by to it

If you’re in Perth, I’ll fit an Aussie plug for you at no charge.
Is the instrument going to be rated for 240VAC 50Hz?

Beautiful scope!!
But has someone polished that stage? Ouch!!

If you place a picture up of the entire drawing tube from both above and below, I will annotate the image with arrows explains how it’s comes apart. They are quite simple.

It may take me a day or two to check back in though.

The BH2 rotatable stage is very simple. You would remove, or back off, the cantering screws AA849500. Then pull the stage against the spring pin AA695400, then tilt the rear of stage upwards and out. It’s possible the banks is the same though you may need to remove the lever that engages the 45* cli...

O.K. folks ... looks like it’s a School-day : https://www.researchgate.net/publication/261569975_In_vivo_assessment_by_Mach-Zehnder_double-beam_interferometry_of_the_invasive_force_exerted_by_the_Asian_soybean_rust_fungus_Phakopsora_pachyrhizi MichaelG. It looks like the lamp house on the back of t...

I’m sorry, I have only just now noticed you have said it’s at the end of a long barrel, do you have a picture of it?

Does your condenser have a slot on the right side similar to this picture?

If you are referring to the X & Y linear bearings, I do not bother disassembling them. I do flush the old lubricant out and replace with new by feeding in from ends. Racking the stage back and forth will drag it in, you only need a very small amount. I do take the controls apart for replacing lubric...

Central screw is standard thread, though plenty of factory lock tight applied. The screw is easily damaged when trying to undo, unless plenty of heat by flame has been applied. The whole top arm is required to be replaced if screw gets damaged.

No need to apologise mate, I didn’t think anything of it.
According to the misses, My written txt is sometimes abrupt sorry. I call it factual

The price is not unreasonable for 1kg ... if you are likely to use most of it ... I wonder whether that 24month shelf-life is real, or just convenient [?] There should be a good market for 50g pots or tubes of it if someone was prepared to produce them. MichaelG. I have seen it give no problems wit...

[/quote] and the price disclosed :o [/quote] I paid $430AUD for 1Kg, though that was through possibly a number of hands before I saw it. For the two stages, I would expect you would use 1-2grams. I mentioned that you can get it directly through Kluber, which is incorrect sorry. I had to go through l...

A very interesting discussion! I am in the process of reviving two gliding stages for stereos, a Wild and a Leica. The Wild one was absolutely and completely stuck while the Leica one barely moves when considerable force is exerted. If these stages are the round type containing the 120mm stage plat...

Only downside to larger field of view is brightness. Not as bright, though may not be an issue in most circumstances.
Older fluorescence microscopes using only 50W mercury lamp had small f.o.v eyepiece to get good signal from specimen.

Hi Zero, The 1512 is a great instrument that will stand the length of time, if not having done so already. Leica’s 410 is Kluber Nontrop KR 291. This is used on the knife holder bed, as well as the vertical dovetail type bearing. There are rubber pads used in these bearing surfaces that you have to ...

Typical signs of DMLS that could be an issue:
- binocular head IPD unable to be adjusted/tight due to old lubricant
- focus being seized due to old lubricant

Both hopefully being not the case if being nicely serviced.

I would not suggest to use lubricant from a spray can, the propellant can cause damage to the metal parts. I have only ever used Olympus and Leica original lubricant so am unsure of what else can be used which is readily available, maybe Black molykote? With the gear box in place, and the fine focus...

Not a problem. It’s great that the gear box in intact and teeth have been stripped. I have only one original box left, and have had to machine up the gear that normally strips. It is possible that the nylon gear in the planetary gear box has become defective. Luckily, the newer BX 1&2 series use the...

Forgot to mention, When reinstalling the gearbox, be careful to have the teeth mesh with the rack correctly (not on top of each other). Have the 2.5mm Allen screws slight loose, lift the focus block (or stage) up ever so slightly then tighten the screws. Sometimes the coarse focus can feel lumpy if ...

Sometimes shims have not been applied. Depending on the backlash between gear box and rack which you can now see, some maybe applied to take up the excess slack. There should always be a small amount of play though. The lubricant in the gear box looks like it requires replacing. It should spin quite...

A tight fitting pin punch works well, or a 3mm Allen key. The lubricant would have become dry, gluing the collar in place. There is also a gear box in the back of the stand, behind the panel on rear of stand held on by four small Phillips screws, which will most likely be seized up as well. The gear...