MicrobeHunter.com Microscopy Forum

Do you really need 365nm wavelength ? if not, if 395nm or 420nm would be OK for the type of fluorescence you wish to see, I would opt for either the 395 or the 420 rather than the 365, for personal safety (eyesight !) reasons at least. And pay even less - ~130 USD as listed. I am not sure, but I ve...

Also from MichaelG's thread: an article from Micscape on photographing fluorescence with a stereomicroscope: http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... oray6.html.

Although rather expensive, the Nightsea fluorescence system for stereo microscopes also looks pretty interesting: https://www.emsdiasum.com/nightsea-fluorescence-viewing-systems. (Found via this thread by MichaelG, which has a good discussion on how one might DIY something similar: https://www.micro...

Reviving this thread again—I've been thinking about how I might observe fluorescence with my stereomicroscope, and I just learned that Amscope offers several versions of UV LED gooseneck lights, e.g.: https://amscope.com/products/led-6w-uv365?variant=40347665662127 , https://amscope.com/products/fb-...

According to the 2024 U.S. Harmonized Tariff Schedule, there is no duty on most microscopes or microscope parts and accessories imported from anywhere in Europe except Belarus and Russia; microscopes or microscope parts and accessories imported from Belarus or Russia are taxed at 20–45%: https://hts...

That is very clever to use eyepieces for the focusing lenses, and it looks like it worked great! Focusing lenses are definitely nice to have, IMO.

Could a product that works for photographing fluorescence also work for observing it with a stereomicroscope? https://adaptalux.com/getting-started-uv-fluorescence-photography/ http://extreme-macro.co.uk/uv-macro-lighting/ I haven't tried this myself, but some of the lights described in those links ...

Welcome to the forum, wdm137! ...I have the older style B&L trinocular camera port with the threaded tube connected to an NDPL adapter to a Canon APS-C mirrorless camera and I like it... The above is also what I use. The quality of geo_man's images looks somewhat better than I have been able to achi...

Been meaning to write up this thread for a while, but just getting around to it now... Several folks have posted in the forum this year asking for advice about choosing camera system for imaging through a trinocular tube, and at least two have ended up with Canon cameras (which, although they were n...

I use a Canon DSLR and am happy with it, and old, used DSLRs are fairly affordable, so I'd recommend you just get a newer Canon. From what I hear, pretty much any Canon DSLR will work well as long as it features live view. The oldest model that I have personally tried on my microscope was an EOS 40D...

Hi all! Sorry that it's taken me so long to get back with this, but here is the manual for the camera adapter: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047940547_3b5f156ee8_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52049494240_b41ab26a13_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047939307_129d09536e_...

Bram, thanks for sharing all this info! (And sorry I haven’t been contributing to the thread lately.) I’m pretty sure I have instructions for the camera adapter somewhere. Not sure if they’ll be helpful—they don’t have any info about the internal adjustments you’ve described here—but maybe they migh...

Dang I finally found a good camera adapter and took it apart and bought a new mirror for it from EO and set that up and lubed it and adjusted it and I got the same exact issue as sliding focus. That is unfortunate! I still haven't found a solution, but have been procrastinating on following up with...

Someone else may have a different opinion, but my recommendation would be for you to get a used DSLR or mirrorless camera and NDPL(1)-2x microscope adapter with the appropriate mount for whatever camera you get. I'd recommend that solution for the following reasons: Unlike a dedicated microscope cam...

Thanks for the info and download links. They both installed OK. I'm running Monterey. None of their software says it's compatible but I don't see why it won't be. Fingers crossed. I'll have to wait until the camera arrives to see how it'll hook up. I hope I have what it takes. I have the USB as wel...

I said I was done trying to sort this. I was wrong. :lol: I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help offered in your replies. It seems I couldn't settle on the boot disk/Windows/Toup/Microscope camera. Trying a DSLR to compare was the only thing that would resolve this and satisfy me. On S...

I'm late to this thread, but I agree with the folks who are recommending a DSLR/mirrorless camera and the manufacturer's tethering software. Since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic, some manufacturers (at least Canon and Fuji, maybe others too) now also offer software that will let you use their ca...

In case you haven't found it yet, here's a link to the service manual: http://doclibrary.com/MSC167/DOC/Leica- ... al2520.pdf.

I use an Olympus SZ3060 at work. I don’t see any doming—but then, I don’t see any on our B&L StereoZoom 4s either, so YMMV. I haven’t seen any noteworthy field curvature on either of the above models, but field curvature isn’t really an issue for my application (insect identification). At low magnif...

I can't answer the question OP asked directly (I don't know how you'd DIY a negative lens), but Spach Optics has a 0.5x objective for the StereoZoom 7 listed for $250: https://www.spachoptics.com/STEREOZOOM-7-p/sz7-obj.htm . I wouldn't pay that much, personally—I'd wait for one to pop up on eBay (wh...

Hi Fero, You are mostly correct: the magnification of the microscope’s objective will be the magnification on the sensor of the camera, unless you're using intermediate optics like the NFK 2.5x photo eyepiece to resize the image (in which case, you have to factor that magnification into the total—th...

it's an interesting subject. It's weird that there is no information on the web about this, it would make an ideal topic. Your thread piqued my curiosity, so I did a search on Google Scholar and had some success finding information in the scientific literature. In case it's helpful/interesting, her...

It's been a while, but I've used CombineZP. As I understand it, the mirroring artifact along one of the edges of the image always occurs, and if you don't want it there then you have to take the image into another program and crop it off. Slightly annoying, but not really a big deal unless you have ...

I'm also pretty new here, so I hope it's okay for me to say welcome to the forum! I'll also say I really like the photos you shared—the collage is great! Before I get into my thoughts, I also want to point you to the forums at https://www.photomacrography.net if you haven't spent time there already....

Not to interject into your in depth conversation but, if you are serious about using the SZ7 for photography and even perhaps image stacking I would suggest you obtain the research stand... Yeah always keeping an eye for a reasonably priced r stand not even a quarter as common as an sz7 in working ...

How do you feel about disassembling, at least partially, for more careful inspection/cleaning? I am not sure what is involved (have an SZ7 but have not taken it apart yet) but it may be difficult to troubleshoot further without having a look inside. Seems like there are quite a few people on here f...

My reasoning for the 2.5x: nikon eyepieces give lower magnification on b&l systems (reducing cropping a bit on aps-c) and it does minimal-if-any compensation, which should match the center of a b&l image nicely while cropping edges where the b&l eyepieces might do more. They're also cheap and easy ...

Perhaps I was reading too much into it ... but the advert claiming the impressive resolution figure specifically mentioned a magnification of 70x, so I assumed that meant 7x on the objectives and 10x eyepieces. I remain unsure whether that claim was ever meant to read-across to the photographic sys...

Impressively comprehensive set of test images and your conclusions sound reasonable. This seems unlikely to me based on the images: ...nothing wrong with my camera adapter, and it is merely amplifying whatever issue might be present in the left light path. I think more likely, as you mention: ...po...

... and I can see no reason to assume that the Nikon CF PL 2.5x eyepiece is a viable alternative [ it may in fact be a superb combination, but we need to understand what’s occurring ] My only reason to assume that the Nikon CF PL 2.5x eyepiece works well is that Scarodactyl said it does (here’s the...