MicrobeHunter.com Microscopy Forum

I've been cleaning my work area and came across a Leitz condenser swing-out lens marked Germany ACHR 0.90 S1.1. The thread diameter is to large for my dialux and old black SM-M and I've done a few searches and can't find any info. Does anyone know what scope this was made for? It is excellent condit...

I finally broke down and bought the manual or $10. I've been trying to share it but whether I try to insert the PDF or docx file I get the message that the file is to large. Is there a way around this?

One thing I learned in 2015 was that heads for 170mm tube length scopes have a 43mm diameter dovetail. The following info was provided to me in 2015. So you just need to verify that your SM-lux is a 170mm tube length scope. There were 4 different dovetails for the microscope head, cited after http:/...

I've searched all the usual sites for a laborlux D manual with no luck. Does anyone have a copy or know where to get one?

Thanks,
henryr

Mine has the knob on top with three arrow headed symbols representing the direction and distribution of the image. And I've spent hours looking at pdfs on the microscope.database.free. It a great source of info but nothing specific on trinoc heads.

Am I the only person to have had a problem with a leitz trinoc head?

So, considering the docs are truly not accessible, can someone tell me how to get access to the dovetails on my Leitz 512/738 trinoc head. The movement is very stiff like that of my AO series 10 trinoc head. The AO head now works great after using hoppes #9 gun oil, but I don't want to just inject t...

But I'm surprised that there are no guides or instructions on disassembly of a Leitz trinocular head. I'd like to believe that this has been done and hope someone would share the steps.

I have no answer beside "I'm dumbfounded".

What happened to " once its on the web its there forever? It must be somewhere.

I spent some time on Frankshospitalworkshop.com and it seems a very noble, humanitarian effort to bring much needed information to underdeveloped countries in dire need of health information.

I found Frankshospitalworkshop page today and only the Leica stuff was listed as Download prohibited by Leica. Support is not desired. The Leitz stuff had no such caveat yet seems unaccessible. So how do we get Leitz service info?

Where did Leitz hide its service manuals? There seems loads of info on AO, olympus and Nikon with schematics ect.. Did Leitz produce similar documents?

This question is related to the trinoc head 512/738, with 42mm dovetail, that I used to convert my 170mm TL dialux to 160mm TL. I first posted about that conversion in Aug.. 2015. Now I want to clean the internal optics and an exploded view would be helpful. I've spent many hours, reading many of th...

What is considered a good image through a microscope with no slide? My three scopes have varying degrees of some small clear spots and clear squiggly lines yet when I look at a prepared slide of a spinal cord the image is quite sharp, clear and bright. I know some of the squiggly lines are on the co...

I'm a bit disappointed that the photos in my first post, with the mirror 90 deg.s out of the correct position, didn't get someone to tell me the position was wrong. However, and thanks Apochronaut for the help, it is now correctly positioned and everything is OK. Now I've looked at a few prepared sl...

I thought some photos, showing where I used Hoppes#9 gun oil, may help others with a similar sticking problem of slide parts #51 and #68.

One thing I didn't mention is that after movement was working easily I left the scope on one side for about 6 hours and a very small amount of dark oil came out and I did the same for the other side with the same results. Based on this it seems the Hoppes#9 did work, a bit, like a penetrating oil.

Another option might be filing a slot in the head, for using a flat blade screwdriver, which I didn't try. What I did do was put the scope on its side and put a few drops of Hoppes #9 gun oil on the various outer edges of the dovetails, hoping the oil would penetrate and run down the mating surfaces...

So the mirror is positioned such that looking from the front of the microscope, the right side edge of mirror is flush with the right side edge of the bracket. This results in the mirror and bracket circular center being coaxial in the X axis. The bottom edge of the mirror is 9mm below the bottom ed...

So I've tried a few drops of Hoppes 9 and liquid wrench and a soldering iron and the screws are still tight. My last try is using DAP rapidfuse to glue the allen wrench to the screw and I can manage the outgassing with a small fan. But before I do that are there any other thoughts on getting those s...

My set up on the sine plate shows that the sine plate surface equates to the inner surface of the bottom cover. The gap between the sine plate surface and bottom edge of the mirror is .5mm. After curing the measured distance from the lower edge of the circular opening and mirror bottom edge is .352 ...

Don't understand where the 9mm is measured. The 1/64 to 1/32 was to avoid the bottom cover from hitting the bottom edge of the mirror. I ended up using a piece of card .015 thick to raise the bottom of the mirror. And the right side edge of the mirror and bracket are coincident.

Thanks for the info. And with the mirror rotated deg. it seems the bracket is designed such that one edge is to be used for positioning the mirror. So aligning one edge of the mirror with one edge of the bracket centers the mirror, on the X plane, with the opening in the bracket. So that and raising...

The acetone worked and the mirror is OK. I cut a business card to the shape of the mirror, installed the bracket and held the cutout against it and rotated the filter in and out to determine where the mirror needs to be. I was surprised how far off center the mirror has to be and now wonder if the l...

I used DAP rapidfuse and it is dissolved with acetone so I don't need another mirror.

Maybe this is a job for super glue. The .05 allen wrench fits very well so I'm thinking of super gluing it in the screw. Any other suggestions will be appreciated.

So I installed the mirror and the neutral density filter bracket hits the corner of the mirror and can't be rotated to the out of use position. I thought the center of the mirror should be in the center of the opening in the bracket so I set it up on a sine plate to make centering and gluing easy an...

Help...while it wasn't easy I got the two #45 top screws loose using a .05 allen wrench but I can't get the two screws on the bottom to move. Are there any tricks...maybe hit them with a heat gun? Or maybe a cotton Qtip with a bit of WD40 left resting on the screw?

It takes quite a bit of force to rotate the thumb wheel to adjust the interpupillary distance. Maybe the gibs need relubing. Are there any clear instructions, with photos, of disassembly to get to the gibs?

Thanks,
henryr