MicrobeHunter.com Microscopy Forum

Here are some photomicrographs of pond detritus that I took: Feet of a Microcrustacean: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cnGeWFD0iYy95PsaADPSuTgGQS-caeVFAuilscSF-05Wql_YAJ-Dam6S5eIwDFMGO9iZcb6EbGutdNIiXRl6chWKo9WGB8lH9w2kyJKqVc5oM1dksLq43frLc97_nVTBb-xpRM0JRTZbXfMiUhQtCm=w927-h695-no?authu...

I have bought an Olympus BH2-BHT Microscope a while back and found that the right focus knob is misaligned relative to the drive shaft. This leads to a crooked fine focus knob which may or may not function properly. Does anybody know if its possible to straighten the focus knob and align it back to ...

Hello, I am interested in using a higher magnification Olympus NFK 3.3 eyepiece and a reducing relay to mimic the image of a NFK 2.5 eyepiece or even a 1.67x. Does anybody have experience in doing such an optical setup where a higher mag photoeyepiece is coupled with a relay to increase F.O.V ? If s...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/155631684 ... ted-public

Attached here is an image link to the adapter

Update: I have made a circular condenser adapter that fits 37mm condensers. This dovetail attachment allows me to use an Abbe condenser and mount it under my BH2. The only caveat is that a temporary disassembly of the stage as well as nosepiece is required to allow for attachment. Despite its somewh...

The main thing that I am trying to look for is a dovetail mount that when attached can turn a circular mounted condenser into a compatible dovetail. The particular example I am looking for is seen in gekko's post where he modifies a condenser to fit into the mount.

The particular seller stated that these attachments only work for the BH2 Aplanatic and Abbe condenser, unless the internal shape of the condenser is the same with the Swing out condenser.

I have just recently acquired an Olympus BHT-BH2 Microscope but the lack of a filter holder has really irked me. Making a styrofoam base that elevates filters is still not satisfactory in my eyes. I am unable to perform Rheinberg Illumation or higher darkfield from the 10x to 20x S Plan Objectives. ...

Decreased heat emission for longer viewing of water samples as well as preferred color temperature for the light.

For clarification, you would put these bulbs into the slots, replacing the halogen bulb right? I have some 3.2-3.4 White LEDS with prongs. With those in mind can I use those LEDS and replace it with the bulb?

Does anyone know any LEDs that can replace the 6V 20W Halogen bulb of an Olympus BH2? I would like to know some options that require minimal tinkering with the microscope's electronics. Thank you in advance.

Hello, I was wondering the potential resale value of a used Olympus BH2-BHT Trinocular Microscope with 5 objectives, 2 being an SPlan 40x 0.70 and SPlan 100x 1.25. The condenser is a fliptop 0.16-0.90NA condenser.
Kind regards, Microman2

In extension to Micronoob's question.
What are the individual prices of Olympus S Plan Objectives? For example what is the price range of an S Plan 10, S Plan 40, and S Plan 20?

Does anyone know any Canadian equivalents/alternatives to the Nye Hobbyist Kit? A lot of the shops a try to find does not ship the kit to Canada. Any information would be helpful, thank you.

Thank you

What's the general consensus on using hardware store xylene as an easily accessible alternative to the lab grade stuff?

Unfortunately due to my ineptness with technology, I've lost my bookmarks containing precious books on botanical micro technique. :( I want to slowly rebuild my collection once more and so I would like to create a thread for all of us to share links. I'll start this thread with Chamberlain's Plant H...

When it comes to stop making, I am a perfectionist. There is nothing more pristine than seeing a circular cut with smooth edges that fits like a cozy glove to the filter holder.

Material for stops is cardboard and size for holes are 32mm.

Does anyone know any brands of circular compass cutters that have a measurement to their diameters. Similar to : https://www.amazon.ca/X-acto-Precision-Compass-Cutter/dp/B000KNNJ2I preferably ones that are in Canada? The compass cutter I currently have does not have any way to precisely measure its ...

Here are polarized pictures of crystallized sleeping pills. Known more specifically as melatonin. Link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/155631684@N06/26520987548/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/155631684@N06/26520985608/in/dateposted-public/ Microscope: OMAX M82ES Camera: Samsung S...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/155631684 ... ed-public/
Here is a link to the full size image.

Unfortunately due to size limitations I cannot get a better image. If possible could anyone redirect me on how one can upload images that aren't limited by the upload restriction?

I'm not sure what these crystals are unfortunately. I'm sure it was a preparation of either Advil, Tylenol or another type painkiller but here it is.

Magnification: 100x
Microscope: Omax M82ES
Camera: Samsung S7 Smartphone

When I make crystals for observation I usually add the solute in a water/alcohol solution and let evaporation takes it course. My question is when crystals are made this way do I have to cover it with a coverslip to preserve it or can I leave it out in the air after evaporation is done?

Even if said alternative diffusers were placed in the filter holder?

My microscope is a no name without a field diaphragm or collector lens so Kohler is impossible? Would anyone inquire other methods of reducing uneven illumination when taking pictures? I was thinking of using a ground glass diffuser but I'm not sure about other approaches.

Does anybody know a reasonable price of selling a used LOMO 1.4 oblique condenser without its original box or 0.3 top lens?

I'll take pictures once I get back home but the main issue is that a dovetail piece that connects the main focus rack and pinion to the fine focus mechanism keeps detaching in my LOMO. I think that I assembled it beforehand properly but I don't I know if there are screws that keep them from separati...

zzffnn, my preposition is to make a threaded ring that raises the top lens to a much more reachable height. It'll fit between where you would normally put the top lens and acts as a height increaser.