MicrobeHunter.com Microscopy Forum

While my BD Plan 210/0 objectives are not quite parfocal in oculars, refocus among objectives for camera imaging is considerable in this configuration, IMO. Other objectives might be less tolerant... This suggests that your sensor is located quite far from the correct position. Likely the image wil...

This needs to stop. This forum will die if this spamming is allowed to continue like this.

Check out Norland optical adhesives.

You can also get a pretty badass used setup for that money, though if you want a high end system you won't get an 18:1 zoom used for the price of that new Chinese smz-18 clone. Maybe a 15:1 (smz1500). Sometimes crazy stuff comes up used. I was watching a Nikon e800 with a full set of planapo object...

blekenbleu wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 27, 2022 10:43 am

Eric Québec wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 26, 2022 6:49 pm

https://acmerevival.com/product/nikon-e400-microscope/

The near image of eyepieces seems of a different head...?

It also shows a completely different microscope, so there must be some mix-up of images. The eyepieces in the last image look like Leica 10x/21B eyepieces.

Welcome aboard, your interests and expertise sounds like a perfect match for the magnificent Microphot-FX. I've admired that model for a long while.

I can also recommend the Nikon microscope user group on Facebook. There's a couple members there with Microphots that I'm sure will have good input.

Good cleaning job. Those scratches won't have a big effect on image quality. You need to scratch a front lens like that quite badly before the image quality start to deteriorate significantly. But the grime that was there before certainly would have an impact. So if the image quality didn't improve ...

Carefully using some cotton swap. I am quite sure the lens will look much better after the first two steps already. I mean, should I put a drop onto the lens and let it sit for 15 minutes or gently wipe it? I'm not fully convinced the stuff is outside the front element, but I'll definitely test you...

Agree that it looks a lot like a precipitate, or possibly fungus. Definitely worth trying out various solvents to see if any can get it off. Some grime can really take a lot of q-tips, solvents and elbow grease to get off.

Don't worry about the missing black, mine had that and it has negligible or no effect on image quality. I filled it in with matte black hobby paint.

The rest... Ugh. Is the image of the front lens before or after cleaning?

I totally understand if you want to jump up to more modern infinity scopes. That said, there's a good-looking trinocular BH2/BHS with DIC and Splan objectives on eBay right now for $3950 BIN, looks like a good seller. Maybe not a bargain, but personally, if I were to spend that kind of money, I'd ra...

I should have one to sell, will have a look. Shipping from Sweden.

As I said above, it's a sand dollar. Specifically, a keyhole sand dollar, i.e. one of three species in the genus Mellita.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyhole_sand_dollar

A member of the group of flat, burrowing sea urchins known as sand dollars, Clypeasteroida.

No, not worth waiting. The Fluor 20x is stellar. I actually sold my 20x CFN PlanApo (which is also fantastic) as it didn't feel that it was worth having both, and at the time I was mostly planning to use the Nikons for fluorescence. However, after I sold it, I stumbled upon a bunch of really cheap P...

The difference between CFN plan achromats and CFN PlanApo's is huge. I never liked my CFN plan achromats at all. The CFN PlanApo's are as good as any objectives you can get. Well worth the investment to upgrade imho. The CF fluor and CFN Plan Fluors are also excellent. Here's my collection: 2781578...

The difference between CFN plan achromats and CFN PlanApo's is huge. I never liked my CFN plan achromats at all. The CFN PlanApo's are as good as any objectives you can get. Well worth the investment to upgrade imho. The CF fluor and CFN Plan Fluors are also excellent. Here's my collection: 27815781...

Are you using direct protection or are you using a CF PL2.5x projection eyepiece? Based on what you say, it sounds as if you are doing direct protection. I think only a few Nikon Labophot heads can be successfully modified for direct protection with a mirrorless camera. in most cases the sensor end...

Are you using direct protection or are you using a CF PL2.5x projection eyepiece? Based on what you say, it sounds as if you are doing direct protection. I think only a few Nikon Labophot heads can be successfully modified for direct protection with a mirrorless camera. in most cases the sensor ends...

This things seemed to enjoy eating the Haematococcus. Anyone recognize it? (Same as 1st image above)

I rarely find time to collect samples, photograph them, edit and post photos. I always get stuck somewhere. But today I found a nice bloom of what I believe are Haematococcus , and found a little bit of time to produce a couple of photos of it and its inhabitants: 2022-07-06-23.39.44 ZS PMax.jpg Sta...

The following represent personal feelings only. For dead targets, as your pictures show. At 40 and above magnification. The fixed knob must be locked after each rotation of the square stage, otherwise the viewport will jump unbearably with any finger contact. I can no longer complain about this ted...

This really has to spot. Oliver, give someone admin privileges now!

I don't agree at all. For biological targets I much prefer my rotating square stage:

Oh, and the rotating stages I own are designed so that the center of rotation is at the center of the field of view, so it follows along as you chase live critters around the slide. My Vanox AH round pol rotating stage with centering mechanism lets you adjust the center of rotation so carefully that...

Obviously： The rotating stage's are prepared to hold the (dead) target in place, in other words: the specimen must be fixed in the centre of rotation. Otherwise, this would be ridiculous, especially with live biological specimens. Please correct me if I am wrong. So I think for oblique lighting or ...

Video doesn't work for me

Side note. I find it kind of funny that many companies promote these add-on field diaphragms as a "Kohler device". The only thing that's relevant for achieving Kohler is whether the light source is in focus at the objective back focal plane. You really just need to remove an eyepiece and look down t...

blekenbleu wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 02, 2022 6:04 pm

viktor j nilsson wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 02, 2022 4:58 pm

Don't you have a phase telescope?

Not yet; my AO Bertrand insert helps not at all.

That's odd, your Bertrand lens should let you see the objective back focal plane.

Don't you have a phase telescope?