MicrobeHunter.com Microscopy Forum

I only get a Sign In notice
https://youtu.be/yiBoiYKSWC0

Not sure I'm looking forward to his report. I use to swim & catch crawdads in those canals. Some things you just don't want to know.

Boy that does a lot in our current political scene. I've suspected there is something in common in that subsection of our culture.

wmodavis- FYI - The MXA20495 will not fit into the BH2-CD condenser because the condenser bore is just a little too small. To fit in a 1" PVC (I suggest SDR-21) you can omit the MXA20495 and just wrap electrical tape to make the whole thing fit snugly, but it takes several wraps and then it tends t...

Welcome and I'm glad someone is finally checking the water quality in SRP canals. Use to swim in them as a kid and hunt crawdads there too.

Gekko - I'm going to try it with my Olympus condenser as they appear very close. The piece of schedule 40 that I have measures about 33.5 mm dia whereas the inside dia to the Olympus condenser measures 34.9 mm. So it's a loose fit. Maybe a turn or two of black electrical tape around the PVC can take...

And as a follow up on this article - I have taken steps to try it on my new old scope. Got the PVC Schedule from a scrap laying around, just placed order for the Filter Holder MXA20495 and will be looking at buying or fabricating some darkfield stops.

WOW! Thanks 77RR. That was very helpful. Excellent article for this here beginner.

Gekko - Thanks. Is the stage micrometer scale just placed on the stage and viewed then compared to the eyepiece graticule? I'm kinda new at this.

75RR - One of the things that I think will help me with this mysterious world is to be able to quantify the sizes of what I'm looking at. I had seen references various places to measuring reticules and it sounds alluring. Well I bought the new, proper oculars and so, as my wont is with so much, I to...

I received a pair of new to me eyepieces "Olympus WHK 10X/20 L & 10X/20L-H Microscope Eyepiece Pair" to replace the 15x Bausch & Lomb that came with. It was as you said Lorez and my scope head does have one focusable tube and one fixed tube and the H had the locator screw. I am hoping to install a r...

Thanks again guys. 75RR - That article was very helpful and went along with the recommendation of 'dead horse beating gekko' and helped clarify some other things for me as well. It seems that removing the eyepiece and looking as I close down the condenser aperture and normally viewing the specimen t...

Gecko - That brings up a good point. When I follow the steps I listed I invariably and even on 100x end up with the condenser iris nearly closed. Now from my reading I expected best resolution to occur somewhere around where the condenser setting matched the NA of the lense being used. I only have a...

Jim -I have an Olympus BH-2 trinocular with inclined eyetubes. I'll try some of the other ideas you mentioned. I did think of seeing the eye doctor. gekko - I'm using correct Koehler setup but the way I understand to do it has the condenser iris nearly closed and condenser nearly to top position. He...

Well besides the floaters I've observed some despicably dirty objectives. But that is another problem. The floaters aren't too objectional on the 4x & the 10x. Changing the viewing distance and/or the angle of view moves them around but doesn't seem to affect their number or obtrusiveness.

I now have a working microscope by piecing together a couple of ebay buys. Hurrah! I'm working on my BASIC microscope skills and have quite a long way to go but am having fun. Here's one frustration I've experienced that possibly I'm not the only one to have noticed. It is more likely a problem with...

After further investigation (thanks for the suggestion zzffnn) I found that the problem was not the coarse focus lock down, or as the BHS manual calls it the "Pre-Focus Lever", which locks the stage travel from being raised past the course focus setting. On my unit that works fine and it was not in ...

I have made some progress. First I purchased a BH-2 BHS with a few parts missing. That was my starting point. I began examining it and the manuals I found online and surmised that a 'for parts' BHT had most or all of the parts I needed to get a working scope so I ordered it. Meanwhile going over the...

I thought it was an excellent comparison of the value of the different lighting methods. Enlightening indeed.

Well done Carl and clearly presented.

Carl - I was not able to get that link to work. It sounds interesting and I've read that some parts are interchangeable between Nikon and Olympus. Wish someone had a cross reference list of parts that work on more than one brand. Tom - Hopefully within a week or two I'll be able to better evaluate w...

Thanks a bunch for that helpful description. The oculars that came with the BSH have a good name but are not the Olympus eyepieces that I've been looking around at/for. My plan, at least for now because of $ is to do with what I've got and perhaps later for them as an 'upgrade'. My BSH base also cam...

That's very helpful differentiation of the BH2 models. I have a BHS base and am looking around for some parts to complete it. Waiting for some now and when they get here I should be close to a workable. I'll have 3 DPlans. Actually I first picked up a BHS, as I said minus some parts, and now have a ...

Thanks Tom. Mine is a trifocal so I'll have to try that when I get those eyepieces.

I don't have the std Olympus eyepieces yet.
The scope came with something else but I have been looking at the Olympus ones and wondering about it for a possible future purchase.
Thanks for the help.

So would you normally use one "L" eyepiece and one "H" eyepiece in normal use?

My question on the Olympus eyepiece is about difference indicted by the model number. For instance re the "Olympus WHK 10X/20 L & 10X/20L- H Microscope Eyepiece Pair" What does the L and the H at the end signify? Is it appropriate to use one L and one H or do you use two L s or two H s? Any help is ...

Call in busy.

Understand. Much of that is same for me. Some background in photography back when there was film and none in Photoshop.

75RR wrote:The surest way is to read each of the manuals, see what attachments/upgrades each will take.

http://www.alanwood.net/photography/oly ... loads.html

The manuals are largely what I'm using but sometimes things go right past my novice mind.