MicrobeHunter.com Microscopy Forum

Those photos from the Oamaru diatomite sites are amazing, many thanks for sharing, and welcome aboard!

Fellow Swede here, good to have you on board!

With so little background visible, it's very hard to judge. But I share your experience, the unevenness is especially pronounced at maximum extinction. And that's where you really see if a system is perfectly aligned. When it's mismatched, you get a black band travelling across the fov. When it's ma...

The prisms are U-DP-40 and U-DICT. The condenser is a BX-UCDB What I have noticed since the prior post is that the difference between a -19 back focal distance lens and a -25 BFD lens seems to be the width of the color bands as you turn the DIC slider control. With the dry lens I can get almost all...

Dennis wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 14, 2022 1:33 pm

macnmotion-

https://www.wfoissner.at/publications.htm

That's a fantastic resource, many thanks!

Good cleaning job. Those scratches won't have a big effect on image quality. You need to scratch a front lens like that quite badly before the image quality start to deteriorate significantly. But the grime that was there before certainly would have an impact. So if the image quality didn't improve...

I agree with pretty much everything Pete says. When I have a really dirty lens, I tend to use ROR or Zeiss lens cleaner first. They clean oily stuff really well. But I find that they don't dry as cleanly and rapidly as pure solvents. But for relatively clean lenses, and for finishing passes, I like ...

The e seller actually kindly gives all the information in the description. And the 20x is the version corrected for 1.2mm slides, unfortunately, with no correction collar.

Where are you located? In the UK, a Microphot with DIC was recently listed on eBay for €1900 (no great objectives, not started in the ad, but has the DIC slider and it looks to have the condenser). And in the US, a Nikon microphot with DIC and a full set of CFN PlanApos was just listed in the Nikon ...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304511614658 I've had good experiences with Ni Yong . I bought an Olympus PlanApo objective from him that was in very good condition and reasonably priced, and he's bought a Lomo apo water objective from me once on eBay. He's an active hobbyist. Edit: just checked and I've a...

Not really needed no, that's the basics.. The full document discuss various ways to optimize and adjust the effect.

Yes, you probably need a Facebook account.
If you pm me your email I can send you the pdf.

I linked to a document where Martin describes his method in detail in post #8 of this thread. Here it is again:
https://m.facebook.com/groups/Amateur.M ... 725296433/

Yup, definitely not DIC. It should also be noted that many of tardibabe's most striking videos are done with fairly large organisms at relatively low magnifications (10x and 20x objectives). She has some higher magnification images as well, but to me they don't pack the same punch as the lower mag o...

Martin Kaae Kristiansen described his method here:
https://m.facebook.com/groups/Amateur.M ... 725296433/

And yes, tardibabe is very talented, and creates beautiful, informative videos with very simple equipment.

A good option when using oil immersion objectives with water mounts is to stabilize the cover glass with a couple of dabs of Vaseline on the corners, or even seal it completely by smearing Vaseline on all edges, described here:

http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/art ... -seal.html

The Plan Apo 40x oil has a very tight working distance of 0.12mm (after accounting for a 0.17mm cover glass). The E Plan Achromat 40x 0.65 has a pretty generous 0.56mm working distance. Isn't that the reason you're not able to look deeper into the slide? The spring loaded nose is just protection so ...

Lovely... It's the CF 40x 1.00 Apo, correct? I love 40x oil objectives.

I'd thought that fluoresence microscopy was a little more complicated than getting a mercury lamp source and a filter cube. Don't you need UV transparent objectives? Never mind the camera modifications that have to be made.... Epi fluorescence can actually be done in an even simpler way if you illu...

The 0.1uF 630v polymer film capacitors came in, and I replaced them in both of my power supplies. Both work okay now. Still humming a bit, and one shows the wrong voltage. It says 9v at max power, but it's really 12.3v when I checked with a multimeter.

Thanks for the help, folks.

I have one like KurtM's flimsy pedal. Agree that it's too light, so I need to actively raise my foot above it so as to not activate it by accident.. Kind of exhausting. Would like one which takes just a little more force to activate, so you could rest your foot on the switch, and then push lightly t...

The original Jansjö was replaced by Nävlinge a couple of years ago. While the Jansjö was flexible throughout its length, the Nävlinge is only flexible for 1/3 of its length or so. On the flip side, the Nävlinge puts out more light (220 lumen). I haven't tried the Nävlinge myself, so can't comment on...

Still waiting for the parts to arrive. Meanwhile I found several examples of 1970s Olympus microscopes (CH/BH/AH) where the exact same capacitor had failed:

https://www.photomacrography.net/forum/ ... hp?t=27552

http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 25&t=20285

Nope, the trinocular port is still the same size, so you're still limited to using eyepieces with a ~18-20mm FN.

The short-barrel BH series objectives are designed to project an image 16mm down the eyepiece tube, so the eyepieces are designed to pick up their image 16mm down the tube. This is quite different from the more recent standard of 10mm. This means that in theory, it's not a good idea to use the wrong...

It's the external power supply that looks like this: https://images.auctionet.com/uploads/item_1397988_af380d64aa.jpg 220v version. I think that the circuits in the repair manual only covers the electronics that are in the base of the microscope (that's for the weaker incandescent illuminator, not t...

:

Can't believe I missed the "," in front of the 1. Guess I was too focused on the voltage. 0.1uF 500 VDC sounds good.

Many thanks Gerry for setting me straight.

/Viktor

The 12v 100W halogen power supply for my Olympus Vanox AH recently failed, after buzzing for a while. As expected, a spectacularly blown capacitor: https://i.imgur.com/YFCDifX.jpg I interpret this as a 1uF 500V capacitor - do you agree? The "WV-DC" and "20k" markings confused me a bit. I've seen oth...

Not the easiest way to compare two objectives, but I agree: the first clip shows much better CA control. Some explanatory text would help

What's the camera adaptation? What eyepiece, what sensor? How much of the FOV is captured?

I've seen the earlier Nikon finite versions labelled both "fluor" and "plan fluor" I don't know if the finite plan fluor was a marketing update or it is actually significantly flatter across the entire field. I do have 40x and 100x plan fluor finite versions - and those seem only a bit better (and ...