MicrobeHunter.com Microscopy Forum

For Olympus BH2 there is a series of repair guides and videos by forum member Carl Hunsinger on the Alan Wood website useful to understand the basics for other scopes as well https://www.alanwood.net/olympus/downloads.html#bh If you read German: the Mikroskopie-forum has lots of posting on Zeiss and...

Plastilube is commonly available and accessible to non professionals and is high temperature resistant (e.g. recommended for furnace doors) all purpose metal to metal grease. It does contain 1.1% organic solvents, so I’m personally not to worried about outgassing YMMV. Did overhaul about 8-10 Olympu...

Plastilube brake grease or equivalent will do YMMV.

Please note it is required to remove the old grease completely: lighter fluid will do here.

Bi/Trinocular heads are exchangeable (color does not match). Most BH2 condensers fit the BH (except the flip-top ones) not vice versa. (Photo)Eyepieces are matched to the corresponding objectives of each era. Phase rings in objectives and condensers are not exchangeable cross the BH/BH2 era. Most ph...

The Phase rings are not compatible CH/BH rings are sized differently to the CH2/BH2 version.

If memory serves me I once read a modification of a BH with a BH2 phase condenser and matching Long Barrel phase objectives had adjusted stage height.

Best, deBult

To non original English speakers language issues on the fine details of what is expressed may be the cause of misunderstanding (I’m Dutch). On my BH2’s switching from NFK2.5 setup with the standard Photomicro adapter L to the MTV-3 adapter with NFK3.3 requires fine adjustment of the focal plane (z-a...

Ha Maurice,

Welcome.

There are 2 active KNNV micro groups in the Netherlands: Delft and Eindhoven.

Best, deBult (nickname)

PM settings updated.

Yes, withdrawing mounting medium is a common issue. With a tick mount, like insects, I usually put a drop of Euparal on the subject and wait 1-3 minutes to make the IPA evaporate from the mounting medium before I put the coverglass on. Splinters from a coverglass around the subject help to keep the ...

Well, no apparent actions from our host, continuous series of spam postings. I hate it to check each time the # of postings of a new “name” , net result is I keep ignoring most posts, only opening the ones from familiar names. Decided to no longer annoy myself, and stop my active participation to th...

Did send you a PM on a reliable Australian source of Olympus parts.

Had a closer look: the dragon fly slide has mouting media spilled on the coverglass.

And it is a SET of slides (didn’t show the box)

NBS slides on offer

May have some NBS Northern Biological Supply slides done by the late Eric Marson.

I’m in the EU, mainland Europe, sending them to the UK will be a nogo (VAT plus import taxes).

If you are in the UK: there are some nice ones on E….

Let me now whether I need to check and come back via PM.

Search E…. for helicoid grease 250

JIS screwdrivers 1.5 mm and up plus the small one from the set you linked to. Ordered at Amazon.de

The repair guides on Alan Wood specify the sizes required.

May I suggest you play the series of maintenance video’s on the Alan Wood website. Yes you require a JIS screwdriver set: the screws LOOK like Philips, but you will damage the heads when using a Philips screwdriver set. You also need a set of Allan keys, including some of the very very small ones pl...

2 easy checks: * does the lamp power on (he may need to bring a replacement 6V 20 Watt halogen lamp, just in case) (Correction: it looks like the BHS model: 12 V 100 Watt halogen lamp) * both fine and course focussing should be possible without force and smooth without hickup’s (mind not to crash th...

Damaged gearbox. You will require a JIS screwdriver set and Alan-key-set to open the back plan of the scope. 30F18DCF-EEF4-472B-A4F6-94B2CBD49E29.jpeg As I understand it in BH2, it is difficult to imagine what kind of human operation could have caused the breakage of this gearbox. Tja, the scope is...

Damaged gearbox.

You will require a JIS screwdriver set and Alan-key-set to open the back plane of the scope.

There is an excellent packaging / shipping guide from forum member Carl Hunsiger on the Alan Wood website.

4* an 10* objectives are not that expensive, even on E…

I love mine (have 3) and for European mainland perspective the price is more than OK when in good shape. The A series of objectives are “entry” level, not plan, but a good startset (plan is overrated i.m.o. when your focus is “pond dipping”: small water samples). The condenser is top quality (but ha...

As resolving the spam issue apparently has no priority (or even confirmed attention) of our host, And only reading replies of users known to me is a nuisance, I have decided to end my account end of this month. I tried to contribute some of my experience with the Olympus BH2 line. I learned a lot on...

And a good read on why you need EFSC when you decide buying a DSLR camera

https://krebsmicro.com/Canon_EFSC/

I got the .5x lens in today. It has a much closer to parafocal distance than my previous method. Images still seem to be a bit fuzzier than through the eyepiece. I suspect some of this may be due to low megapixels. As funds increase I will be trying more things. David, apart from the 4* objective t...

This may seem counter intuitive but the 4* objective (or any low magnification) is the most difficult one to achieve sharp pictures due to limited depth of focus plus the fact you require the most camera megapixels using low magnification objectives. In addition to that if your scope uses objectives...

A good place to start: the pond life identification kit by Wim van Egmond

http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/index.h ... index.html

People are trying to help, but evidently ….

woyjwjl wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 21, 2022 2:44 am

But, as a hobbyist, I wouldn't give up my OLYMPUS BHS for a DIC ....

Well: best of both worlds: a BH2 with DIC