New Carl Zeiss Standard RA38.

[kushagra]

Just got this microscope for 250 Pounds, was kind of an impulse decision so hoping it was a good deal. I basically could not find any documentation on it or know anything about its general upgradability, I understand it can do brightfield and phase contrast but that's about it. Would really appreciate some more information if somebody knows more about this.

I am also confused as to what the eyepieces are, They have LHMC DB 68/1-2 written on them. I wonder if anybody here knows what they are.

Also what would be some good upgrades to this scope ? I am thinking of getting an optovar so far and a darkfield condenser.

[imkap]

Hi, looks great, congratulations. It seems like a good deal. Maybe needs some cleaning, but that's a fun part too, at least for me

Your condenser might even have darkfield already, look for D when turning the turret. It looks like it may be 1.4 apl. which is great, these sell for more than 100€ by themselves... If it doesn't have D you can install a patch in one of the empty holes. I think that DF can be achieved with phase contrast annuli too, so you can experiment. Anyway, you don't need a new condenser, this is the best one.

Objective set is nice.

Is there anything else written on the front side of the eyepieces? Maybe Zeiss KPL 8?

Obviously a trinocular head is a great add on, you'll get objectives when you realize which ones do you want, maybe a more powerful light source in time. But you have more than enough to get you started, especially if the original light works.
Don't rush buying as the prices for old microscope accessories fluctuate quite a bit between absurdly unreasonable and complete bargains, so you'll need some time to get used to them

[PeteM]

The eyepiece markings are likely from the organization that previously owned the microscope. If you look around the top rim, you may see Zeiss markings.

Zeiss phase contrast is excellent, and it looks like your scope has a good set of objectives. The 100x has an iris, which would be useful if you find an oil immersion darkfield condenser.

The interchangeable turret is another plus - at some point you may want one with places for five objectives.

[kushagra]

@PeteM

Actually I am still waiting for the scope to be delivered but hoping that these are indeed Carl Zeiss ones. Will update once I get it.
Is the ideal eyepiece config KPL 10X, I understand that the KPL are a must with corrective optics ? Just out of curiosity I saw from the Zeiss manual at http://www.science-info.net/docs/zeiss/ ... ystems.pdf that they also make 16x 55 degree ultra wide eyepieces, are there any disadvantages to getting those ?

[kushagra]

Thanks !! Can you recommend some cleaning/ servicing supplies till it gets here ? I am particularly trying to find some suitable lubricant or oil for the different moving parts.

Understood on the condenser front.

Actually I have been into amateur Microscopy for some time now but its the first time I am getting into Phase contrast. I kind of know I like to be in the 40x to 63x domain and particularly enjoy darkfield and rheinbergs.
I would like a suggestion if an OPTOVAR a good investment for Phase contrast and general good to have, I saw some on ebay for around 200 Pounds and have the cash to get it. Would like a recommendation as it seems like from my basic understanding that it is good to have considering I will be exploring some phase contrast with the microscope at atleast 63x (My only Phase Contrast objective so far).

Hi, looks great, congratulations. It seems like a good deal. Maybe needs some cleaning, but that's a fun part too, at least for me

Your condenser might even have darkfield already, look for D when turning the turret. It looks like it may be 1.4 apl. which is great, these sell for more than 100€ by themselves... If it doesn't have D you can install a patch in one of the empty holes. I think that DF can be achieved with phase contrast annuli too, so you can experiment. Anyway, you don't need a new condenser, this is the best one.

Objective set is nice.

Is there anything else written on the front side of the eyepieces? Maybe Zeiss KPL 8?

Obviously a trinocular head is a great add on, you'll get objectives when you realize which ones do you want, maybe a more powerful light source in time. But you have more than enough to get you started, especially if the original light works.
Don't rush buying as the prices for old microscope accessories fluctuate quite a bit between absurdly unreasonable and complete bargains, so you'll need some time to get used to them

[imkap]

Thanks !! Can you recommend some cleaning/ servicing supplies till it gets here ? I am particularly trying to find some suitable lubricant or oil for the different moving parts.

Understood on the condenser front.

Actually I have been into amateur Microscopy for some time now but its the first time I am getting into Phase contrast. I kind of know I like to be in the 40x to 63x domain and particularly enjoy darkfield and rheinbergs.
I would like a suggestion if an OPTOVAR a good investment for Phase contrast and general good to have, I saw some on ebay for around 200 Pounds and have the cash to get it. Would like a recommendation as it seems like from my basic understanding that it is good to have considering I will be exploring some phase contrast with the microscope at atleast 63x (My only Phase Contrast objective so far).

Hi, looks great, congratulations. It seems like a good deal. Maybe needs some cleaning, but that's a fun part too, at least for me

Your condenser might even have darkfield already, look for D when turning the turret. It looks like it may be 1.4 apl. which is great, these sell for more than 100€ by themselves... If it doesn't have D you can install a patch in one of the empty holes. I think that DF can be achieved with phase contrast annuli too, so you can experiment. Anyway, you don't need a new condenser, this is the best one.

Objective set is nice.

Is there anything else written on the front side of the eyepieces? Maybe Zeiss KPL 8?

Obviously a trinocular head is a great add on, you'll get objectives when you realize which ones do you want, maybe a more powerful light source in time. But you have more than enough to get you started, especially if the original light works.
Don't rush buying as the prices for old microscope accessories fluctuate quite a bit between absurdly unreasonable and complete bargains, so you'll need some time to get used to them

You don't need oil, as for grease ATE plastilube is good and cheap. You'll see when it comes, maybe it won't need much servicing. If you need to grease something then first disassemble and clean it thoroughly. Helimax xp is lighter and recommended by some folks here if ATE is too thick. Ate is nlgi 2 and helimax nlgi 1.

Look up Carl Hunsinger on Internet he has great instructions in PDF and video about Olympus microscope servicing. A lot can be applied to Zeiss. Although Zeiss has a bit simpler mechanisms in my experience, which is great...

For cleaning optics, I'd say start with distilled water and proceed with alcohol if needed. I never used anything more powerful.

With optovar you can conveniently change magnification without changing objectives or eyepieces. Whether that's worth 200 it is up to you to decide. If you wait you might find one for less, but maybe you don't like waiting

[Hobbyst46]

If the microscope is mechanically sound and smooth, that is true bargain ! congratulations.

Your phase contrast includes the 40X Neofluar which is a very useful objective. Dry objective.
I did not see a 63X phase contrast on the scope. Those generally are oil immersion ones.

The Ph3 position of the condenser provides dark field with the 6.3X and 16X objectives. Though not as dark as with the D position.

Original screws on the microscope are probably slotted-heads, and would appreciate high quality NON-TAPERED screw drivers. They are precision parts.
Over-engineered by some opinions.

IF one must take apart the stage or condenser, it should be done above a piece of cloth, to catch the tiny screws, and bearing balls/rollers.

To clean and remove old oil and grease, a gentle solvent should be used. Isopropanol, octane, lighter fluid, NEVER use acetone.

The mechanics of the microscope are precision made, gentle and nothing should be forced. Proper tools and reason do the difference.

All iris apertures should be clean and dry. Not a trace of oil. Although they are "moving parts" by definition.

Proper eyepieces are the Kpl-W. For example, Kpl W 10X. They offer a wide field of view and, more importantly IMHO, high eyepoint.
Zeiss optical parts of that era should be suspect for delamination. I would specifically inquire before buying.

What illuminator is included with the microscope ?

[75RR]

Can you recommend some cleaning/ servicing supplies till it gets here ?

The Clean Microscope by Zeiss is quite usefull:

https://www.zeiss.com/content/dam/Micro ... -zeiss.pdf

[kushagra]

Hi guys, a huge thanks to everybody for the great resources and all the information.

The microscope finally showed up, good and bad news:

There were some cosmetic damage that was incurred during shipping, the base plate broke off a piece (I wonder how that happens) and the power connector had some plastic chipping.

Coming onto first impressions:

Everything seems to move every smoothly, the microscope seems to have been used in a medical university and regularly serviced.

The Eyepieces are 12x KPL but one of them seem to be heavily scratched and seems unusable. If somebody can point me to a good set to buy that would be super helpful.

The condenser is a 4025170, everything apart from the smallest Phase contrast diaphragm seems to be in good condition, the mechanical iris moves properly and smoothly,The smallest annulus seems very delaminated. I wonder if its functional or I need to swap it out.

The objectives seem to be in great shape with no scratches or other imperfections visible at least on first ispection.

Looking at the current lighting setup, is an upgrade to LED recommended ? It did not come with the Zeiss transformer, unfortunately so will invest in it separately if the current setup is of desirable quality.

[kushagra]

attached the delaminated PH

[kushagra]

Thank you so much, is using alcohol alright ? Do the lenses have coatings that can be eroded by the alcohol ?

You are absolutely correct about me wanting everything right away

I ordered some ATE Plastilube to try to use during some cleanup.

Thanks !! Can you recommend some cleaning/ servicing supplies till it gets here ? I am particularly trying to find some suitable lubricant or oil for the different moving parts.

Understood on the condenser front.

Actually I have been into amateur Microscopy for some time now but its the first time I am getting into Phase contrast. I kind of know I like to be in the 40x to 63x domain and particularly enjoy darkfield and rheinbergs.
I would like a suggestion if an OPTOVAR a good investment for Phase contrast and general good to have, I saw some on ebay for around 200 Pounds and have the cash to get it. Would like a recommendation as it seems like from my basic understanding that it is good to have considering I will be exploring some phase contrast with the microscope at atleast 63x (My only Phase Contrast objective so far).

Hi, looks great, congratulations. It seems like a good deal. Maybe needs some cleaning, but that's a fun part too, at least for me

Your condenser might even have darkfield already, look for D when turning the turret. It looks like it may be 1.4 apl. which is great, these sell for more than 100€ by themselves... If it doesn't have D you can install a patch in one of the empty holes. I think that DF can be achieved with phase contrast annuli too, so you can experiment. Anyway, you don't need a new condenser, this is the best one.

Objective set is nice.

Is there anything else written on the front side of the eyepieces? Maybe Zeiss KPL 8?

Obviously a trinocular head is a great add on, you'll get objectives when you realize which ones do you want, maybe a more powerful light source in time. But you have more than enough to get you started, especially if the original light works.
Don't rush buying as the prices for old microscope accessories fluctuate quite a bit between absurdly unreasonable and complete bargains, so you'll need some time to get used to them

You don't need oil, as for grease ATE plastilube is good and cheap. You'll see when it comes, maybe it won't need much servicing. If you need to grease something then first disassemble and clean it thoroughly. Helimax xp is lighter and recommended by some folks here if ATE is too thick. Ate is nlgi 2 and helimax nlgi 1.

Look up Carl Hunsinger on Internet he has great instructions in PDF and video about Olympus microscope servicing. A lot can be applied to Zeiss. Although Zeiss has a bit simpler mechanisms in my experience, which is great...

For cleaning optics, I'd say start with distilled water and proceed with alcohol if needed. I never used anything more powerful.

With optovar you can conveniently change magnification without changing objectives or eyepieces. Whether that's worth 200 it is up to you to decide. If you wait you might find one for less, but maybe you don't like waiting

[kushagra]

Understood. Yes sorry my bad it is a 40X PH.

Nothing apart from the smallest condenser PH stops seem to be delaminated. Can this still be functional or I need to swap it out if I want to use it ?
I posted some photos of the illuminator.

If the microscope is mechanically sound and smooth, that is true bargain ! congratulations.

Your phase contrast includes the 40X Neofluar which is a very useful objective. Dry objective.
I did not see a 63X phase contrast on the scope. Those generally are oil immersion ones.

The Ph3 position of the condenser provides dark field with the 6.3X and 16X objectives. Though not as dark as with the D position.

Original screws on the microscope are probably slotted-heads, and would appreciate high quality NON-TAPERED screw drivers. They are precision parts.
Over-engineered by some opinions.

IF one must take apart the stage or condenser, it should be done above a piece of cloth, to catch the tiny screws, and bearing balls/rollers.

To clean and remove old oil and grease, a gentle solvent should be used. Isopropanol, octane, lighter fluid, NEVER use acetone.

The mechanics of the microscope are precision made, gentle and nothing should be forced. Proper tools and reason do the difference.

All iris apertures should be clean and dry. Not a trace of oil. Although they are "moving parts" by definition.

Proper eyepieces are the Kpl-W. For example, Kpl W 10X. They offer a wide field of view and, more importantly IMHO, high eyepoint.
Zeiss optical parts of that era should be suspect for delamination. I would specifically inquire before buying.

What illuminator is included with the microscope ?

[Hobbyst46]

The Ph1 is delaminated. Not critically important, as long as you do not use a 10X and lower mag phase contrast objectives.
16X PC objectives are usually Ph2, not Ph1.

Those eyepieces are 12.5X of the low eyepoint type. Not ideal, even if functional.
10X Kpl-W or 12.5X Kpl-W would be better.

But, non-Zeiss eyepieces can be an acceptable replacement, at least for visual inspection (not for photo).
On one Zeiss scope I use a pair of old Olympus 10X WF, and it is fine.

The fracture of the (plastic ?) base is a shame and should not happen in transport. I would ask the seller for partial refund.
For illumination - if the incandescent bulb and socket are OK, a Zeiss-made power supply is not a must. Any power supply that provides the proper
current at the proper voltage can be used. I use an Olympus power supply for the 6V, 15W Zeiss illuminator.

[Hobbyst46]

The number on the condenser plate is a serial number, not a catalog number. Zeiss were apparently inconsistent in printing/engraving
the catalog numbers on the microscope parts.

I would leave the Ph1 in place. Again, if the microscope as a whole was listed by the seller as "used", delamination as well as scratches on the glass could be
arguably called wear and tear, unless the seller specifically declared the exact status. That is about asking a refund for the delaminated Ph1. However,
if there is no clear binocular image because one of the eyepieces is so badly scratched, I would ask for a refund.

If, later, you get a low mag Ph1 objective, then test it with the existing Ph1 condenser port; with some luck, the delamination will not affect
the image too much. Anyway, individual condenser phase contrast plates are rare on eBay.

Alcohols for cleaning: isopropanol is fine, ethanol could be also used, depending on WHERE it goes. Solvents can cause deterioration especially of
glass lens cements. So, when cleaning any optical part, use the solvent sparingly. Absorbed in a peace of Kimwipe or lens tissue. And only after
blowing away all dust (first thing to do, anyway), and after moist (water) tissue has been applied. Solvents are the last resort, not the default.

[imkap]

I suggest you find a way to light up that bulb, I think it is 6V and 15W, check somewhere. Lab power supply might be a good option, as it can be used with this bulb and whatever you want use later, probably available locally this Monday if you're in a hurry.
Maybe find a small flashlight and put it inside meanwhile.

When you start looking through the scope, then you'll see if any of technical flaws you mention are bothering you and buy other stuff accordingly ...

[kushagra]

I just tried to power the bulb with a lab bench power supply and nothing, on closer inspection I found the filament at the bottom, might have happened during shipping for earlier during use.
Are replacement bulbs easy to find ? If not what kind of illumination setup should I be looking at.

also would you recommend any of these eyepieces:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145084646777

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125932060959

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154917330593

The Ph1 is delaminated. Not critically important, as long as you do not use a 10X and lower mag phase contrast objectives.
16X PC objectives are usually Ph2, not Ph1.

Those eyepieces are 12.5X of the low eyepoint type. Not ideal, even if functional.
10X Kpl-W or 12.5X Kpl-W would be better.

But, non-Zeiss eyepieces can be an acceptable replacement, at least for visual inspection (not for photo).
On one Zeiss scope I use a pair of old Olympus 10X WF, and it is fine.

The fracture of the (plastic ?) base is a shame and should not happen in transport. I would ask the seller for partial refund.
For illumination - if the incandescent bulb and socket are OK, a Zeiss-made power supply is not a must. Any power supply that provides the proper
current at the proper voltage can be used. I use an Olympus power supply for the 6V, 15W Zeiss illuminator.

[kushagra]

The eyepieces seem functional and do produce a binocular image, can I just use some cheap WF10X objectives from amazon or should I try to find some zeiss ones for replacement, is the difference going to be huge ?

Rn my biggest trouble is the illumination as the bulb seems to be broken, would you reccomend finding a new tungsten bulb or swapping it out for something else ?

Understood on the cleaning front, will do the same.

The number on the condenser plate is a serial number, not a catalog number. Zeiss were apparently inconsistent in printing/engraving
the catalog numbers on the microscope parts.

I would leave the Ph1 in place. Again, if the microscope as a whole was listed by the seller as "used", delamination as well as scratches on the glass could be
arguably called wear and tear, unless the seller specifically declared the exact status. That is about asking a refund for the delaminated Ph1. However,
if there is no clear binocular image because one of the eyepieces is so badly scratched, I would ask for a refund.

If, later, you get a low mag Ph1 objective, then test it with the existing Ph1 condenser port; with some luck, the delamination will not affect
the image too much. Anyway, individual condenser phase contrast plates are rare on eBay.

Alcohols for cleaning: isopropanol is fine, ethanol could be also used, depending on WHERE it goes. Solvents can cause deterioration especially of
glass lens cements. So, when cleaning any optical part, use the solvent sparingly. Absorbed in a peace of Kimwipe or lens tissue. And only after
blowing away all dust (first thing to do, anyway), and after moist (water) tissue has been applied. Solvents are the last resort, not the default.

[kushagra]

Had a lab bench power supply, tried it. The bulb seems broken.

Do you know of some disassembly instructions to try to get to the bulb ? What would you recommend to do for the illumination ?

I suggest you find a way to light up that bulb, I think it is 6V and 15W, check somewhere. Lab power supply might be a good option, as it can be used with this bulb and whatever you want use later, probably available locally this Monday if you're in a hurry.
Maybe find a small flashlight and put it inside meanwhile.

When you start looking through the scope, then you'll see if any of technical flaws you mention are bothering you and buy other stuff accordingly ...

[Hobbyst46]

Zeiss Standard in-base illuminator parts.jpg (55.78 KiB) Viewed 8836 times

The bulb is inserted through the knurled ring (yellow arrow) into the collector lenses within a tube. The tube is locked in place
by means of a tiny screw (red arrow). To fit the lamp, the knurled ring should be rotated (by 180 degrees I think), to loosen a springy strip that rests within a groove inside the knurled ring. The lamop is then slid inside and the knurled ring rotated backwards.

For disassembly, thus, first of all, try pulling lightly on the socket, to pull it out - perhaps the knurled ring is not properly positioned right now. If it does not come out, try rotation of the ring and pulling. It will work, maybe after a few trials.
Then, to take out the collector lenses tube, unscrew and remove the tiny lock screw, then pull the tube out.

A replacement illuminator - depends. A DIY LED retrofit (can't help in this). Or a commercial LED retrofit to the Zeiss Standard. There is a firm in Europe that makes them to order. And a firm in the USA (retroDiode, in Texas I think) that makes them. Tailor made for your model of scope. Not inexpensive.

Or maybe, try and get the external Zeiss 60W halogen illuminator.

[imkap]

Do you know of some disassembly instructions to try to get to the bulb ? What would you recommend to do for the illumination ?

I think you should be able to remove it by turning or something, never had the original bulb socket There is a screw beneath (in a base) you can remove the whole tube by unscrewing it. This is from the manual for the older model:

image_2023-05-20_230133038.png (149.27 KiB) Viewed 8829 times

In short, you have 3 options

1. DIY LED
2. buy a LED retrofit
3. buy a powerful halogen lamphouse

A bit longer:
I did this:
https://www.microbehunter.com/microscop ... 12&t=14944

Here is a thread about Zeiss and lighting from not too long ago:
https://www.microbehunter.com/microscop ... 25&t=17387

Also an excerpt from another thread:

I bought this kind of LED chip, a few different versions with different power and CRI index:
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cre ... cycode=HRK

This is pretty powerful, but I had some strange halo on my microscope. I think LED is the culprit, but maybe not. I bought another microscope with complete lighting meanwhile so stopped searching.

I got advice here to get a high power single LED, not an array. I didn't listen to that, but I think I should have.
So the next thing I'd buy would be that kind of a LED. I think I might do it sometimes, but not yet ...

Maybe one of these?
https://hr.mouser.com/c/optoelectronics ... r%20Rating