Zeiss Standard gets a new home

[75RR]

Looking much better.
Only other thing you might try is to remove the bulb, rotate it 180 degrees and put it back in.
The filaments are sometimes a little off center.

[charlie]

At the moment we are trying to center the filament directly under the objective. Once that is done the next step is to use a slide to focus the filament at the Front Focal Plane.

Moving on to that step, I find that I can only see the field diaphragm shadow distinctly when the condenser is racked to very nearly the top of its adjustment when using a 10x objective. Below that, closing the field diaphragm only darkens the image and only when it is nearly closed. I doubt this is correct. Is there another adjustment that I have missed?

[75RR]

If you remember the instructions in the 60w Illuminator manual - it tells you to aim the illuminator at a wall about 2 or 3 meters away - then move the socket until the filament is in focus (page 3). At this point the element should be focused at the Front Focal Plane when the illuminator is back on the microscope, provided one does not inadvertently move it.
To check that it has not moved we use a slide to see if the filament is focused at the Front Focal Plane.
The front focal plane lies at the same level as the condenser diaphragm - so if we can see the filament focused on the closed diaphragm (viewing from below by using a slide as a mirror) all is well.

Example image is actually of a slide being used to check a LED filament but the technique is the same.



Once this is done the next step is follow the instructions (in the correct order) to achieve Köhler
You have just aligned the filament so all you need to do is align the condenser.
Remember to swing out the auxiliary lens!

http://zeiss-campus.magnet.fsu.edu/tuto ... flash.html

[charlie]

I finally got it Glen. Thanks for hanging in there with me!

[KurtM]

So ... got 'em all working now?

(I may be getting something very similar soon, so this thread suddenly became pretty interesting...)

[charlie]

So ... got 'em all working now? (I may be getting something very similar soon, so this thread suddenly became pretty interesting...)

I ended up with one working. The other two went back. I am glad if this thread can help anyone else. The only reason I have the one working is because of the help from folks on this forum. Thanks all again!

And thank you Charles for the Christmas card and gift. That blue filter makes things look much better. I know; it still needs work. Are there any special cautions for cleaning the top lens in the monocular tube?

[KurtM]

Maybe time to take a nice portrait of the scope itself and post it?

[charlie]

Maybe time to take a nice portrait of the scope itself and post it?

Page one, the ninth post has a picture. All the rest of the thread is about tearing it apart and getting it to work correctly.
Talk to Charles about Zeiss DIC - his are giving birth/multiplying!

[Charles]

You're welcome, but, you are still getting a lot of 'yellow' in your pictures and may need to fix your lighting.

Yes, you do need to do some cleaning. Follow the Zeiss cleaning methods from their pamplet.

And yes, my Zeiss DIC family is growing...should get my latest addition today!

[charlie]

you are still getting a lot of 'yellow' in your pictures and may need to fix your lighting.

That is handled; I finally build the 12 volt power supply although I am not happy with the enclosures and will be redoing them.

[Charles]

So, that's all running off the computer chassis?

[75RR]

The digital dimmer looks cool but the computer chassis is a nightmare!
I take it you are putting 24v into the controller and getting 12v out?

[charlie]

So, that's all running off the computer chassis?

Yes, it is a common knowledge conversion of a computer PS to a psuedo bench power supply. (Although half the youtubers. etc get it wrong!) To be clear, the only component that is mandatory, in addition to a computer power supply, is the resistor you see mounted to the heat sink on the left.

The digital dimmer looks cool but the computer chassis is a nightmare!
I take it you are putting 24v into the controller and getting 12v out?

lol I told you I wasn't happy with the enclosures! The 24 volts is just me playing with a boost/buck voltage regulator. (On the upper right held by the clamp.) It isn't used in this application. Although the PS can put out 24V but only 1 amp. (Using -12V and +12V leads) The leads are +3.3, +5, -5, +12, and -12 volts. The +5 and +12 amperage available is pretty high. The +5 is regulated.

[charlie]

Finally, I am getting there!



Thanks for the youtube tip Glen

[Charles]

Good job and it's looking good!

[75RR]

Well done. Definitely on the right road.

On the video front, add just the letter/number code ( in this case: 2ui0-hAJJFo) between the youtube brackets that appear when you press the youtube button in the toolbar.