OPTIPHOT M
OPTIPHOT M
The following parts are missing: One of the internal Fluorescence Cube of the Fluorescence Illuminator an its 'puller'.
Has not the 100 wats for Hg. (Can it be replaced wit a strong led light?) and the trinocular head also is missing.
I have noticed that in the right hand side of this microscope has the following: R- DIC - T
Came with 4 stardard nikon objectives and a 'strange' objective (must be for centering the microscope light).
I have a Labophot 2 (also Seiwa and a Spencer 100) and I am happy with it.
Have no idea what to do with. I don't know if it is worth it to restore it.
Any help will we welcome.
Stjepo
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Re: OPTIPHOT M
Hi Stepjo,
nice microscope!
Epi fluoerescence is not used much in amateur microscopy so there is comparatively little information available. Some fluorescence techniques seem to be too specialized and often (UV-light sources) dangerous for the amateur. But with blue LED excitation interesting results can be obtained. Here is an example of a stained plant section: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=8206&p=72146&hilit= ... sis#p72146
Other interesting topics are:
-plancton life stained with acridine orange
-chlorophyll autofluorescence
Probably many more objects nobody has pointed a fluorescence microscope at like some worm organs.
Bob
nice microscope!
Epi fluoerescence is not used much in amateur microscopy so there is comparatively little information available. Some fluorescence techniques seem to be too specialized and often (UV-light sources) dangerous for the amateur. But with blue LED excitation interesting results can be obtained. Here is an example of a stained plant section: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=8206&p=72146&hilit= ... sis#p72146
Other interesting topics are:
-plancton life stained with acridine orange
-chlorophyll autofluorescence
Probably many more objects nobody has pointed a fluorescence microscope at like some worm organs.
Bob
Re: OPTIPHOT M
The "R-DIC-T" markings are where the stage should be lowered for, respectively, Reflected and Transmitted DIC. Doesn't seem you have either of those DIC bits?
It's a good microscope. Given that you already have a Labophot 2, you might consider moving the head and objectives over to this Optiphot. You'd gain a brighter lamp for phase-darkfield etc. and the ability to buy and use different nosepieces. Could have one nosepiece for brightfield, one for phase, and one for epi work? Should you ever stumble across the Nikon DIC components, you'd also have a stand they could be used on.
It's also a good start on a fluorescence setup if you want to go that way, or just epi illumination by fitting either a regular Nikon halogen lamp or a LED conversion to the back of the fluorescence setup and making sure you have a BF/DF cube.
What "standard" objectives are on it? Are they biological (.17 cover) or metallurgical (no cover)?
The strange looking objective-like bit, as you surmised, is to align a mercury lamp for fluorescence work.
It's a good microscope. Given that you already have a Labophot 2, you might consider moving the head and objectives over to this Optiphot. You'd gain a brighter lamp for phase-darkfield etc. and the ability to buy and use different nosepieces. Could have one nosepiece for brightfield, one for phase, and one for epi work? Should you ever stumble across the Nikon DIC components, you'd also have a stand they could be used on.
It's also a good start on a fluorescence setup if you want to go that way, or just epi illumination by fitting either a regular Nikon halogen lamp or a LED conversion to the back of the fluorescence setup and making sure you have a BF/DF cube.
What "standard" objectives are on it? Are they biological (.17 cover) or metallurgical (no cover)?
The strange looking objective-like bit, as you surmised, is to align a mercury lamp for fluorescence work.
Re: OPTIPHOT M
Bob, thank you very much for your kind answer and also the interesting link you have sent to me.
First of all I must state that I lack any knowledge in this subject (Epi fluorescence and its techniques).
It is quite clear to me that I will not get the power supply to activate the 100 watts Hg light. I have tried it with a 100 watts halogens light (in the future I may try it with a strong led) but I think I have a long way to go just to get any image Epi fluorescence from this microscope as it is. My only success up to now has been a beautiful blue light coming from the objective and projecting it to the stage (I hope I haven’t operated my eye cataracts myself during these trials).
I only have one filter B2A DM510 with Dichroic mirror with the barrier and exciter filters. It gives a blue light. I have gotten additional information about the B2A DM510 from this link:
https://www.microscopyu.com/techniques/ ... s-emission
Also I have been reading in how to make fluorescence samples and it is too much for me even though I would not mind making those beautiful pictures.
https://www.biotek.com/resources/white- ... g-results/
Stjepo
First of all I must state that I lack any knowledge in this subject (Epi fluorescence and its techniques).
It is quite clear to me that I will not get the power supply to activate the 100 watts Hg light. I have tried it with a 100 watts halogens light (in the future I may try it with a strong led) but I think I have a long way to go just to get any image Epi fluorescence from this microscope as it is. My only success up to now has been a beautiful blue light coming from the objective and projecting it to the stage (I hope I haven’t operated my eye cataracts myself during these trials).
I only have one filter B2A DM510 with Dichroic mirror with the barrier and exciter filters. It gives a blue light. I have gotten additional information about the B2A DM510 from this link:
https://www.microscopyu.com/techniques/ ... s-emission
Also I have been reading in how to make fluorescence samples and it is too much for me even though I would not mind making those beautiful pictures.
https://www.biotek.com/resources/white- ... g-results/
Stjepo
Re: OPTIPHOT M
PeteM, I must be grateful always for the time you give to all of us helping.
1. Thank you for clarifying the meaning of the markings. No, I don’t think I have those DIC bits. Could you be kind to tell me which bits should I get?
2. I understand from your suggestion that the Optiphot is a better piece of equipment than the Labophot 2? If it is the case also I will move the Phase Contrast 2 equipment currently in the Labophot 2.
3. “Could have one nosepiece for brightfield, one for phase, and one for epi work? Should you ever stumble across the Nikon DIC components, you'd also have a stand they could be used on.” It sounds a very good idea but again I need some help
to learn which pieces should I buy.
4. The reason I bought it was because I wanted an epi illumination but I was not sure which BF/DF cube to buy and also if it will fit into my current equipment. Any advice from you will be welcome. Its no easy to get it in Europe but I have now
a USA address to buy it from there.
5. I have made pictures of the 4 Optiphot objectives (in red rectangle) alongside the Labophot ones. Also I include this small chart: (yes, the strange looking objective is for centering the light)
Again PeteM, thank you for your time I really appreciate it,
Stjepo
1. Thank you for clarifying the meaning of the markings. No, I don’t think I have those DIC bits. Could you be kind to tell me which bits should I get?
2. I understand from your suggestion that the Optiphot is a better piece of equipment than the Labophot 2? If it is the case also I will move the Phase Contrast 2 equipment currently in the Labophot 2.
3. “Could have one nosepiece for brightfield, one for phase, and one for epi work? Should you ever stumble across the Nikon DIC components, you'd also have a stand they could be used on.” It sounds a very good idea but again I need some help
to learn which pieces should I buy.
4. The reason I bought it was because I wanted an epi illumination but I was not sure which BF/DF cube to buy and also if it will fit into my current equipment. Any advice from you will be welcome. Its no easy to get it in Europe but I have now
a USA address to buy it from there.
5. I have made pictures of the 4 Optiphot objectives (in red rectangle) alongside the Labophot ones. Also I include this small chart: (yes, the strange looking objective is for centering the light)
Again PeteM, thank you for your time I really appreciate it,
Stjepo
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- objetivos optiphot y labophot peq.jpg (113.62 KiB) Viewed 11269 times
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- objectives chart.jpg (36.12 KiB) Viewed 11269 times
Re: OPTIPHOT M
Stjepo - I'd wait a bit on the DIC parts until you have a bit of experience. I've seen three sets of the transmitted DIC bits for the Optiphot sell for around $1500 in recent weeks, but nothing recently. For "microbe hunters" the transmitted (through a slide) DIC will be of most interest.
Your better Nikon objectives will be the ones marked "Plan." These are good objectives and you'll likely be happy with them.
Yes - if the Optiphot is in good condition all-around, it's the better and more upgradeable microscope. I'd consider keeping it and selling the Labophot to have a bit of spare money for future upgrades.
What do you most want to look at? That can help determine what you might want to add in terms of features in the future.
Your better Nikon objectives will be the ones marked "Plan." These are good objectives and you'll likely be happy with them.
Yes - if the Optiphot is in good condition all-around, it's the better and more upgradeable microscope. I'd consider keeping it and selling the Labophot to have a bit of spare money for future upgrades.
What do you most want to look at? That can help determine what you might want to add in terms of features in the future.
Re: OPTIPHOT M
PeteM, Thank you for your advice, I have changed the Phase Contrast-2, the ‘better’ objectives, the stage clip, the trinocular head from the Labophot to the Optiphot. (Enclose you some pictures)
1. I will wait on the DIC parts until I get more experience. Just to learn more about the subject of Reflected and Transmitted DIC could you list me which are those bits: (Cubes, Objectives, nosepiece, etc ?
2. For the Epi illumination, up to now and thanks to you, I know I need to fit ‘a regular Nikon halogen lamp or a LED conversion to the back of the fluorescence setup’ and also to get BF/DF cube (2 cubes?).
3. When you say that ‘For "microbe hunters" the transmitted (through a slide) DIC will be of most interest.’ Are those compatible with what I already have?
4. Could you tell me the difference between the objectives that have no mark with those that have an E and also with those with an E Plan before its magnification factor? (Excuse me if my questions are naïve).
5. I would like to take pictures of ‘pond life’. What would be the correct way to upgrade my current setting?
6. Which are the differences in the nosepiece for brightfield, for phase, or the one for epi work?
7. In which way would you upgrade this Optiphot?
8. Yes is a good idea to sell the Labophot but I think I must find for it a new Binocular o trinocular head.
Thank you again for your time.
1. I will wait on the DIC parts until I get more experience. Just to learn more about the subject of Reflected and Transmitted DIC could you list me which are those bits: (Cubes, Objectives, nosepiece, etc ?
2. For the Epi illumination, up to now and thanks to you, I know I need to fit ‘a regular Nikon halogen lamp or a LED conversion to the back of the fluorescence setup’ and also to get BF/DF cube (2 cubes?).
3. When you say that ‘For "microbe hunters" the transmitted (through a slide) DIC will be of most interest.’ Are those compatible with what I already have?
4. Could you tell me the difference between the objectives that have no mark with those that have an E and also with those with an E Plan before its magnification factor? (Excuse me if my questions are naïve).
5. I would like to take pictures of ‘pond life’. What would be the correct way to upgrade my current setting?
6. Which are the differences in the nosepiece for brightfield, for phase, or the one for epi work?
7. In which way would you upgrade this Optiphot?
8. Yes is a good idea to sell the Labophot but I think I must find for it a new Binocular o trinocular head.
Thank you again for your time.
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Re: OPTIPHOT M
I can answer this one anyway. 'E' stands for economical, and they are Nikon's low end objectives for things like student use. They're still pretty good though.
Re: OPTIPHOT M
To add, your "E Plan" are a better objective than the "E" without a Plan marking.
The only upgrade I'd suggest for now would be to add polarization to your Optiphot. Looks like there is already a polarizing filter inserted at the top and front of your epi adapter. So all you need is a polaroid filter to cover your field lens. A cheap polarizing camera filter (you may have to try flipping it both ways) could get you started.
The only upgrade I'd suggest for now would be to add polarization to your Optiphot. Looks like there is already a polarizing filter inserted at the top and front of your epi adapter. So all you need is a polaroid filter to cover your field lens. A cheap polarizing camera filter (you may have to try flipping it both ways) could get you started.
Re: OPTIPHOT M
Thank you Scarodactyl and PeteM for your answer about the objectives markings. Can I assume that those objectives without any marking (ie 'E' or 'Plan') are the worse of all?
Regards
Stjepo
Regards
Stjepo
Re: OPTIPHOT M
Thank you PeteM, Yes, there is only one filter at the top as you can see in the pictures; the other one is missing or never had it. I have a few polarizing camera filters that I am supposed to fit between the camera and the objectives.
Regards
Stjepo
Regards
Stjepo
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Re: OPTIPHOT M
The one polarizer should be sitting just to the right and above your lablel "empty" There's something in that slot - hopefully a polarizer.
The best-fitting of your camera polarizers can go on the base, sitting above the lens and iris for the field diaphragm. If these are circular polarizers, you may have to flip them to get extinction as you rotate them.
The best-fitting of your camera polarizers can go on the base, sitting above the lens and iris for the field diaphragm. If these are circular polarizers, you may have to flip them to get extinction as you rotate them.
Re: OPTIPHOT M
Thank you PeteM for your time.
No, is just the holder of the cube it has not filter but you have given me a good idea. I have made a round lens with a polarized film (from a 3D television glasses) and fitted inside the small black filter container, that is, underneath the microscope head. The other polarized lens ‘W 55E circular pol’ above the lens and iris for the field diaphragm.
Regards
Stjepo
No, is just the holder of the cube it has not filter but you have given me a good idea. I have made a round lens with a polarized film (from a 3D television glasses) and fitted inside the small black filter container, that is, underneath the microscope head. The other polarized lens ‘W 55E circular pol’ above the lens and iris for the field diaphragm.
Regards
Stjepo
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- filter inside.jpg (74.04 KiB) Viewed 11113 times
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- filtro polarizado.jpg (69.4 KiB) Viewed 11113 times
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- porta filtro.jpg (68.74 KiB) Viewed 11113 times
Re: OPTIPHOT M
Looks like you're set.
Better extinction might be possible with higher quality polarizers, but what you have should be great for many subjects.
Better extinction might be possible with higher quality polarizers, but what you have should be great for many subjects.
Re: OPTIPHOT M
Greetings to all.
Very interesting topic.
Thanks
Very interesting topic.
Thanks
Re: OPTIPHOT M
PeteM, this is my humble way to say… thank you! People like you make fun to belong to this forum.
Regards
Stjepo
Regards
Stjepo
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Re: OPTIPHOT M
Cool pictures, stjepo. Thanks for demonstrating the "world" that opens up by adding simple polarization.