Should I upgrade to a trinocular before switching to a mirrorless camera?

[shawngibson]

Hi guys, as I look at the compound with a tiny 16MP Omax camera, and envision a real camera (I love the Fuji X-E1 sensor, beautiful images!) on the ocular, I think "horror". Should I replace the microscope with a trinocular if I put an APS-C mirrorless camera on? My guts says definitely, especially since, well, it's a cheap microscope.

[charlie g]

I always found a 'trinoc head' on my stands the way to go. In the dark ages of youth, my monocular stands set with ocular tube pure vertical upright...plopping a camera...or 'hand holding a camera' was easy...for image captures.

I sense a binocular scope...with that oh so 'ergonomically comfortable' 45 degree tilted ocular path for visual viewing...a big problem for camera adaption.

I suggest...try and get a trinocular scope better than your current 'work horse stand'....in the meantime...the best microscope you have...is the one you use. I have a family of 160 mm tube length stands...I'm old....sigh.

charlie guevara, finger lakes/US

[shawngibson]

Thanks Charlie. Can I put an ocular polarizer on the trinoc head after the camera? Trying to figure out how to photograph polarized light into the camera...still don't understand this.

[charlie g]

Simple 'crossed polarized transmitted light microscopy requires 'cheap' polarizer filter below your substage condenser...then a second 'cheap' polarizer filter sitting above your stands eye piece...do this with visual observation...before you refine the eye piece filter to coble an image cature camera into this simple 'crossed polarizer light technique'.

you rotate either one of the two cheap filters until you observe the darkest light background in the microscope field view...that state is: 'crossed polarizer filters'/ crossed pol illumination.

With this light path...only specific translucent materials you observe manifest enchanting colors! Do it visually before your try an image-capture setup...try disolved then dried thin crystal films on a microscope slide. Try it on river or stream bed clays...for natural world crystals which beguile!

The science and information which polarized light microscopy displays is very profound...my enchantment is the colors! all the best, charlie guevara

[75RR]

Definitely go for the Trinocular! As someone that shared a binocular head with a camera for several months (nice camera, nice binocular - but still!), I can not recommend it too highly. Which Trinocular microscope is of course another matter.

Re-Polarized illumination.
The simplest way is to obtain 2 identical polarized filters. Place one over the illuminator (Polarizer) and the other (Analyser) inside the binocular/trinocular head. You can leave the one in the head permanently - it will cost you a couple of camera stops - one can live with that. Note: Both filters can be the same, it is their location that gives them different names.

[gekko]

I would like to add two suggestions to the excellent comments above: (1) the polarizers should be linear, not circular polarizers, and (2) if you use 75RR's suggestion for the placement of the analyzer (which, in my view, is the most convenient place), try to get a thin plastic film polarizer rather than a relatively thick glass sandwitch; this suggestion only applies to the analyzer- the bottom polarizer can an inexpensive (again, linear) polarizer made for cameras (ebay is a good inexpensive source).

[shawngibson]

Thanks everyone, great advice. And 75RR/Gekko, I finally understand the placement of the analyser for use with a camera, thanks to the visual:)

Shawn

[apochronaut]

I have only in the past year switched from afocal with a fairly high mpx fixed lens camera to having a mounted mirrorless camera on a trinocular tube. My choice of camera was determined by airmiles, of which I had enough, to have a Sony a5000 delivered to my door at no cost. The a5000 might well have been my choice anyway for one very good reason. It has a full size 180 degree rotating screen, so when it is mounted on the microscope , I knew I could easily monitor it from my position at the eyepieces. It turns out to be great for tracking and focus trim, just prior to exposure. IT is 20.1 mpx. and an aps-c but one of the smaller versions of that format.

I also can use the camera direct to sensor, and with a dedicated photo lens , it gets a better image than that obtainable through a visual eyepiece.

The mirrorless feature and light weight, provides a completely vibrationless image capture, something that would be more important mounted over an eyepiece, for sure. I have used it as an afocal camera and the image through the trinocular is a better image.

[shawngibson]

Thanks Apo. Great score with the Sony.

Vibration is another reason I want to avoid a DSLR. Mirrorless is definitely the way to go.

I suppose I'll lose the ability to use Troupview though?

And...just found this on e*bay, looks awesome for polarizing and other nifty features too:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Filter-set-micr ... WmRpVnmasw

[apochronaut]

About toupview, I would presume that to be the case but do not know for sure. I would also presume that there is another program , that you could partially replace it with.

[gekko]

Shawn, you probably know this already, but just in case not: not all mirrorless cameras have a first curtain electronic shutter. My old Olympus E-P1 does not, and the shutter did result in blurring of the images when I had the camera mounted directly on the microscope (later I isolated it and the problem was solved).

[mrsonchus]

I have only in the past year switched from afocal with a fairly high mpx fixed lens camera to having a mounted mirrorless camera on a trinocular tube. My choice of camera was determined by airmiles, of which I had enough, to have a Sony a5000 delivered to my door at no cost. The a5000 might well have been my choice anyway for one very good reason. It has a full size 180 degree rotating screen, so when it is mounted on the microscope , I knew I could easily monitor it from my position at the eyepieces. It turns out to be great for tracking and focus trim, just prior to exposure. IT is 20.1 mpx. and an aps-c but one of the smaller versions of that format.

I also can use the camera direct to sensor, and with a dedicated photo lens , it gets a better image than that obtainable through a visual eyepiece.

The mirrorless feature and light weight, provides a completely vibrationless image capture, something that would be more important mounted over an eyepiece, for sure. I have used it as an afocal camera and the image through the trinocular is a better image.

Hi Apo', this sounds very interesting, I've looked this camera up on the Sony website and it appears to have the ability to connect to a PC with a 'live-view' tether - how would I couple this camera to my trinocular's phototube in order to use it as I currently use my trusty 2mp USB camera? Does this model have a completely electronic shutter as well as mirrorless, I couldn't seem to find out when I looked earlier?
I've a Meiji x2.5 projection-eyepiece that I used to use with a Canon EOS 1200D that vibrated like a Spitfire's engine when it took consequently blurred pictures. Would that be any use with it?

[shawngibson]

>> I currently use my trusty 2mp USB camera

I find this shocking. Your images are very professional. You are truly talented

Shawn

[shawngibson]

Shawn, you probably know this already, but just in case not: not all mirrorless cameras have a first curtain electronic shutter. My old Olympus E-P1 does not, and the shutter did result in blurring of the images when I had the camera mounted directly on the microscope (later I isolated it and the problem was solved).

Nope. Didn't know that. Need to Google now lol. Thanks for the heads-up:)

I had an E-P2. Awesome camera:)

[apochronaut]

Refresh my memory of what you are using for a microscope, John , and I will try to help out on that. I have had to jump through quite a few hoops in coupling because I move the camera around several different microscopes. The shutter on this camera is a mechanical curtain but it is very vibrationless.

One thing that gets missed about Sony, is that they are essentially MInolta cameras. Sony arrived full blown as a camera company by virtue of a transfer of assets from Minolta, who they previously were in business with on some levels.

[mrsonchus]

Hi Apo', I've a Chinese-made 'SP200' as it's badged by Brunel Microscopes, here's a picture;

lowres_scope_1_websize.jpg (22.06 KiB) Viewed 8682 times

I used to have a Canon atop it but it was truly hopeless at high-magnification due to vibrations as taking picture...

websize_canon_1200d_tethered (3).jpg (284.72 KiB) Viewed 8682 times

I still have the fittings including a Meiji x2.5 projection-eyepiece that sits between the camera and phototube. The setup with the Canon was totally hopeless as pictured... My inability to exploit it's potential was the main factor I now think. Hindsight is a wonderful thing!

[apochronaut]

I would think the Meiji photo eyepiece should be excellent. So you have a T2 to Canon bayonet?

[apochronaut]

Raf camera has a bunch of nex adapters now. He should have what you are looking for. http://www.rafcamera.com/ He usually does free shipping on small items.

[mrsonchus]

I would think the Meiji photo eyepiece should be excellent. So you have a T2 to Canon bayonet?

Yes I have the T2/Canon bayonet adapter.