Looking for first microscope

[apochronaut]

any non abrasive, non absorbent item can be used to transfer a drop of water. toothpick, broken off skewer, cardboard shaft of a q-tip. tweezers do work o.k. drug stores should have some cheap eye droppers.

any clean plastic bag, will do. there are heavy 6 mil bags that are used for vac packing fish or meat. if you know a butcher or fish broker that vac packs, there are large ones 20" x about 30" These are strong enough to stand up on their own and make excellent covers.

blower helps to keep eyepieces clean but you will need some swabs too. eyelashes contact the lenses and quickly make a mess of them. eyecups help.

[Nance]

http://www.science-info.net/docs/zeiss/

Here's a load of downloadable docs that will help you get acclimated with the various zeiss stand models.
also you will find some catalogs on ebay with viewable pages...

I recently bought a beautiful Zeiss LG and am still wandering through the maze of compatibility.
I am also finding that there are some persons on this forum that have invaluable Zeiss knowledge
that seems to surpass any catalogs out there - from whence it comes must be trial-and-error experience?

[Hobbyst46]

sbaum:

You asked about items to have for microscopy. I suggest:

For cleaning you may want Q-tips and lint-free soft tissues - either lens cleaning tissue (some microscopists dislike them) or Kimwipes or the very soft piece of cloth that opticians stock for cleaning eye-glasses. But the rule is to use everything on a slightly moist glass surface, not dry surface.
You may want plastic disposable Pasteur pipettes (1ml or 3ml, they come in large packages but are inexpensive).
Distilled water (common distilled water from the drugstore).
Isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol, rubbing alcohol). Occasionally it will remove dirt that light petroleum wo'nt.
A few glass jars for collecting pond water samples).
Nail polish (any common cheap brand, not colorless).
A small sharp penknife for cutting samples of leaves, etc (scalpels are better but require training by someone with experience!)

[sbaum]

I received my microscope today! The seller packaged it very well and I got it about 2 days early. Here's all the contents after I unpacked them:


Assembly looked a little daunting but I loaded the standard manual that charles sent to me which easily laid out the components and how to attach them to the stand. The only component that gave me some problems was the condenser. When I set it into place it was very loose so I thought I wasn't setting it properly. Turns out that the two thumb screws just needed to be tightened.

Here it is fully assembled:


I was really surprised by how easy it was to assemble and all the knobs made complete sense on what they do. After reading a little bit more about the different parts I decided to turn the light on and try looking at a slide. I have no real prepared slides yet, so I snatched one from my kids toy Celestron microscope kit. After a little bit of adjusting I was able to get the specimen in focus and it looked pretty good. I actually have no idea what it is because the slide wasn't labelled but it was a good test to make sure I could see something.

I read a little bit about Kohler adjustment in the manual and tried doing some of the things it said to do but it was kind of confusing and I wasn't sure how it was supposed to change the image I was viewing, which already looked quite clear to me.

A couple more questions:

1. I noticed before putting in the eyepieces that it looks like there might be dust on the lenses in the binocular tubes. Should I clean those with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs?
2. Should the stand have a bottom? I noticed that where the light goes in there is no cover over the bottom and when the light is on you can see it coming out the front of the base of the stand. It didn't seem to affect the image.
3. The transformer has 3 different voltage settings, 5, 6, and 8. Is this what adjusts the brightness of the light? I only used the 5 setting so far.
4. Any tips on when I should be moving the condenser down? The Kohler adjustment in the manual mentioned moving it down but I can still get the image in focus when the condenser is close to the slide.
5. Any suggestions for things around the house to look at until I can get to a pond?

Thanks again everyone for helping me choose this microscope. I'm looking forward to getting some pond water and understanding more about the intricacies of this microscope.

[75RR]

Glad it arrived safely - looks very nice!

I noticed before putting in the eyepieces that it looks like there might be dust on the lenses in the binocular tubes. Should I clean those with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs?

Here in case you missed it is a link to the booklet 'The Clean Microscope' (Zeiss pdf on cleaning microscopes)
If you follow its instructions on cleaning you will be fine. (Remember, always blow the dust off first) I find isopropanol works fine on its own.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1428

Should the stand have a bottom?

It is fine as it is. The only reason for a 'bottom' (base) is to raise it if you configure the microscope to take one of the external lamphouses.

The transformer has 3 different voltage settings, 5, 6, and 8. Is this what adjusts the brightness of the light?

Yes, the higher settings are to be used with higher magnification objectives and or light intensive illumination techniques such as Darkfield.

Any tips on when I should be moving the condenser down? The Kohler adjustment in the manual mentioned moving it down but I can still get the image in focus when the condenser is close to the slide.

The condenser, when properly adjusted, should be only a couple of millimeters below the slide in most circumstances. When they talk of lowering it, it is in the context of having moved it all the way up first.
Note that you focus the subject/image using both the coarse and fine focus dials. One moves the condenser in order to bring the edge of the field iris into focus.
This is part of the Köhler setup, the purpose of which is to fine tune the illumination.
Play/Practice with the interactive tutorial: http://zeiss-campus.magnet.fsu.edu/tuto ... flash.html (It runs on Adobe Flash)

Any suggestions for things around the house to look at until I can get to a pond?

If you have slides and cover slips and house plants then a drop or two from the overflow tray (the greener the better) will do.
Alternatively you can also dissolve some sugar (or salt) on the edge of one of your kids slides and have a look at it when it has crystallized again.
See link for some ideas: CRYSTALS - A HANDBOOK FOR SCHOOL TEACHERS
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1398

On another subject (illumination techniques)
Have a look at this article: http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/art ... denser.pdf

[Hobbyst46]

Sbaum:
Congratulations. Looks great. Similar to mine but better.

75RR has answered so I will just add somethings

The inside if the eyepiece tubes is difficult to reach with swabs, I would postpone that until i am SURE that there is any dirt inside.

The stand can be placed on a thin flat surface (rimless tray of plywood, plastic) to avoid scratching the desk with the "feet" of the base.

Voltage setting: In the past they recommended indeed to use lower voltage settings as long as the image is bright.

I would suggest to check that the three condenser knobs can be moved under light finger pressure. Never force anything related to the condenser.

Ready made specimens: Put some hay in water at room temperature under any natural light. Inspect the water after 3-4 days under 10x objective.
Or pick out a small weed plant with the roots, shake away the mud or dirt, place in a small jar of water. Inspect the water after a copule of days..

[75RR]

The inside if the eyepiece tubes is difficult to reach with swabs, I would postpone that until i am SURE that there is any dirt inside.

Good advice.
Finding where the dirt/dust is can be challenging. To check if it is in the eyepieces you can rotate them. If the dust rotates with the eyepiece then you know that is where it is.
If it doesn't, then you must check the field iris glass cover and any filters you may have in the light path. It is (as you noticed), very easy to remove the condenser, check for dust on the reachable lenses.
Then there are the objectives ...
This is why one uses a dust cover ;)


You will need to place a blue filter in the filter holder under the condenser to compensate for the yellow tinge of the incandescent bulb. Did it come with one?

[Hobbyst46]

I read a little bit about Kohler adjustment in the manual and tried doing some of the things it said to do but it was kind of confusing and I wasn't sure how it was supposed to change the image I was viewing, which already looked quite clear to me.

Before such adjustment, verify that the lamp is fully inserted into the base, there is a knurled ring on the back on the base that you can tighten with fingers to hold the lamp in place. The lamp is factory-centered, you do not need to center it for the Kohler.

[Charles]

Looking good and congratulations! This scope will last a lifetime and then some else's lifetime.

The power regulator has different voltage depending on which holes you plug it into. The best option is use the 6V holes. The lower the voltage you use the longer the bulb lasts.

There was never a cover plate for the bottom. There are risers which are used when changing the lighting to the 12V system.

Take your time to make adjustments and for cleaning, use a blower first, then distilled water if needed and then cleaner if needed.

Enjoy!

[sbaum]

The inside if the eyepiece tubes is difficult to reach with swabs, I would postpone that until i am SURE that there is any dirt inside.

Good advice.
Finding where the dirt/dust is can be challenging. To check if it is in the eyepieces you can rotate them. If the dust rotates with the eyepiece then you know that is where it is.
If it doesn't, then you must check the field iris glass cover and any filters you may have in the light path. It is (as you noticed), very easy to remove the condenser, check for dust on the reachable lenses.
Then there are the objectives ...
This is why one uses a dust cover


You will need to place a blue filter in the filter holder under the condenser to compensate for the yellow tinge of the incandescent bulb. Did it come with one?

My dust cover right now is a plastic bag from Wal-Mart. I do not believe I have a filter. I swing out the part that is labelled as the "holder for filter" in the manual and there is nothing in there. I'm probably going to hold off cleaning anything for now because from my limited viewing the image seems pretty good. I will try to take some pictures with my phone so you guys can give your opinion of the optics.

[sbaum]

I would suggest to check that the three condenser knobs can be moved under light finger pressure. Never force anything related to the condenser.

I think I misspoke. I had to tighten the knobs on the condenser carrier. See the image below where I've circled the parts I'm talking about (this is not my carrier). When I originally set the condenser into the carrier it "wiggled" around and didn't seem stable. I had thought that it would sit tight inside the carrier but I ended up turning the two knobs until the condenser wouldn't move anymore. Was I wrong to do that?

[sbaum]

Any tips on when I should be moving the condenser down? The Kohler adjustment in the manual mentioned moving it down but I can still get the image in focus when the condenser is close to the slide.

The condenser, when properly adjusted, should be only a couple of millimeters below the slide in most circumstances. When they talk of lowering it, it is in the context of having moved it all the way up first.
Note that you focus the subject/image using both the coarse and fine focus dials. One moves the condenser in order to bring the edge of the field iris into focus.
This is part of the Köhler setup, the purpose of which is to fine tune the illumination.
Play/Practice with the interactive tutorial: http://zeiss-campus.magnet.fsu.edu/tuto ... flash.html (It runs on Adobe Flash)

Thanks for that explanation, that makes a little more sense about the condenser position.

I have played with that interactive tutorial before I got my microscope but wasn't quite sure what I was doing. Now that I have mine I think it is actually in alignment. The whole field of view is lit up.

If you have slides and cover slips and house plants then a drop or two from the overflow tray (the greener the better) will do.
Alternatively you can also dissolve some sugar (or salt) on the edge of one of your kids slides and have a look at it when it has crystallized again.
See link for some ideas: CRYSTALS - A HANDBOOK FOR SCHOOL TEACHERS
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1398

Thanks for that link. I have saved it and will look at it later.

[sbaum]

How far should my eyes be from the eyepieces to see the image clearly? So far I have had to back up a little bit to get the image to become clear. If I go closer then the field of view seems to shrink or I see some double vision. Backing up a little bit was a little annoying because my peripheral vision is picking up the room around me instead of letting me focus on the eyepiece.

The same thing happens to me with some binoculars I have where the eyecups were ripped. Do they make eyecups that I can attach to eyepieces or do you have to buy the eyepieces with them?

[Charles]

The two knobs you circled are for adjusting the position of the condenser for Kohler illumination. The knob in the front is a spring loaded holding pin for tension. When you remove or put the condenser in the condenser holder, pull out on the front knob and then you can remove the condenser without loosing your condenser settings set with the rear two knobs. So to get it set up with the condenser in the holder and the 10X objective focused on a slide, closed the field diaphragm and then move the condenser up or down to get the field diaphragm in focus. Center the field diaphragm by use of the two circled knobs. When centered, open the field diaphragm just past the field of view.

The KPL eyepieces are designed for use with eye glasses (there is an eye glass symbol on the barrel) so the image is projected above the eyepieces. So, yes withouth eye glasses, your eye will be above the eyepieces for viewing.

[Charles]

I should also point out that the condenser has a V shaped notch on the mounting rim. For proper condenser alignment, the front spring loaded pin fits into that notch.

[sbaum]

I should also point out that the condenser has a V shaped notch on the mounting rim. For proper condenser alignment, the front spring loaded pin fits into that notch.

Thanks for the info Charles. Yes, I noticed that notch and lined it up against the front spring loaded pin. Is there a reason that when I set the condenser into the carrier it moved around? Do you think maybe the previous owner just loosened the knobs?

[Charles]

The seller probably didn't know how to remove the condenser via the front pin and loosened the two rear knobs to get the condenser out for shipping. The seller was probably not the one who used it last.

[Hobbyst46]

Sbaum - sorry that I was misunderstood. The three knobs on the condenser, that I was referring to, are NOT the knurled pointed screws on the CONDENSER HOLDER, which are visible in your posted photo and two of which you circled in red.

I was referring to the knobs on the condenser itself: the one that opens/closes the iris aperture, the small knurled disk at position 5 o'clock and the small lever at position 8' oclock. The latter two align the phase annuli inside the condenser. These should be freely movable.

[Hobbyst46]

Notice :
The article mentioned above - : CRYSTALS - A HANDBOOK FOR SCHOOL TEACHERS, dated from 1972, suggests, among many good ideas for growing crystals of common kitchen stuff and chemicals, growing Naphthalene crystals from vapors. In 1972 naphthalene was apparently still allowed for household use. It has been phased out since, due to its high toxicity. Even if naphthalene crystals are interesting, I strongly suggest to stay away from them, at least at home.

[75RR]

I have played with that interactive tutorial before I got my microscope but wasn't quite sure what I was doing.

Hope this helps:
As far as the illumination is concerned, the arrangement you have is already pre-focused and aligned. All you need to worry about is intensity.

[Hobbyst46]

Do they make eyecups that I can attach to eyepieces or do you have to buy the eyepieces with them?

On eBay there are inexpensive rubber eye-cups that come in several sizes and should apparently fit any ocular. I ordered a pair but have not received them yet, so I can't testify about their quality.

[sbaum]

I have played with that interactive tutorial before I got my microscope but wasn't quite sure what I was doing.

Hope this helps:
As far as the illumination is concerned, the arrangement you have is already pre-focused and aligned. All you need to worry about is intensity.

That picture was extremely helpful, thank you. On that practice page I never bothered to scroll down until tonight. That easily laid out how to calibrate the illumination. I played around a lot with the different components and it was clear what each one did. I'm learning quite a bit now.

[sbaum]

Do they make eyecups that I can attach to eyepieces or do you have to buy the eyepieces with them?

On eBay there are inexpensive rubber eye-cups that come in several sizes and should apparently fit any ocular. I ordered a pair but have not received them yet, so I can't testify about their quality.

I am very interested in this. Once you receive them let me know how you like them.

[sbaum]

I collected my first pond sample last night and took a look under the microscope. I was able to see some things moving around but even at 400x (the highest mag. I can go for now) it was hard to make out any details. I took a picture with my phone through the eyepiece on the trinocular port. The picture quality isn't great, as it is hard to keep my phone steady, but it is fairly close to what I was seeing through the bino eyepieces. I think those are eyelashes on the eyepiece in the upper left as they rotate when I rotate the eyepiece.



I used the fine focus to try and get them clearer. I tried tinkering with the iris diaphram and the condenser aperature to play with brightness. I have noticed that with the bright white background my eyes are seeing a lot of "artifacts", some I suspect are due to my vision starting to deteriorate (I don't wear glasses yet but I suspect it won't be long). The brightness of all that white also can get pretty intense and I have to remember to take a break to rest my eyes.

The eyepieces are also dirty as when I rotate them I can see some "specks" rotating. I think I will try to clean them with some distilled water and cotton swabs.

I also took at look at an oak leaf by ripping a tiny piece and putting a drop of water on it (and covering with a cover slip). The views of that were very rewarding and since it was opaque my eyes were able to view it for longer. I also noticed that the "artifacts" I was seeing when viewing the water were not apparent when viewing the leaf. It must be the intensity of the bright white that was affecting my eyes. Here's one picture I took of the leaf at 160x:



I don't know if viewing the water using phase contrast might be better. I need to read the link from earlier in the thread to make sure I understand how to do it properly.

[Charles]

You can adjust the brightness by plugging into a lower voltage setting on your power transformer.

For Phase, the WL manuel, Chapter 3 goes through the steps for using phase.

[Hobbyst46]

I tried tinkering with the iris diaphram and the condenser aperature to play with brightness.

Consistent setting of the apertures provides uniform illumination and improved contrast between the specimen and background. For Kohler, start with a low power intensity on the transformer, set the condenser position to "J", raise the condenser as much as possible, fully open the condenser aperture, fully close the field aperture, lower the condenser slowly until the field aperture is in as sharp focus as possible, adjust the horizontal position of the condenser to center the field aperture if it is not centered, open the field aperture to fill the view with light - then, finally, partially close the condenser aperture to increase contrast. Then, if brightness is insufficient, increase the power on the transformer without changing any of the apertures.

These steps are important to brightfield and are a preliminary to phase contrast setting as well.

[sbaum]

You can adjust the brightness by plugging into a lower voltage setting on your power transformer.

For Phase, the WL manuel, Chapter 3 goes through the steps for using phase.

I am currently using the lowest voltage (5V). Thanks for the tip on the phase instructions in the manual.

[sbaum]

I tried tinkering with the iris diaphram and the condenser aperature to play with brightness.

Consistent setting of the apertures provides uniform illumination and improved contrast between the specimen and background. For Kohler, start with a low power intensity on the transformer, set the condenser position to "J", raise the condenser as much as possible, fully open the condenser aperture, fully close the field aperture, lower the condenser slowly until the field aperture is in as sharp focus as possible, adjust the horizontal position of the condenser to center the field aperture if it is not centered, open the field aperture to fill the view with light - then, finally, partially close the condenser aperture to increase contrast. Then, if brightness is insufficient, increase the power on the transformer without changing any of the apertures.

These steps are important to brightfield and are a preliminary to phase contrast setting as well.

I thought I had done this but I know I was confused at first about how to change the condenser aperture so I might not have had it fully opened. I will try this again tonight. I know last night I had the condenser aperture almost fully closed because opening it just made it too bright. I bet this will fix the problem.

[75RR]

If you find the light to be too strong you can either use a ND (Neutral Density) Filter in the filter holder or place it over the Field Iris Housing.
Alternatively you can use two polarized pieces of film placed over the Field Iris Housing - and offset them until the intensity of the light is manageable.
See link: https://www.amazon.com/Polarizing-Film- ... rized+film

Perhaps the best and easiest solution is to slightly offset the brightfield port - this will have two effects: it will reduce the intensity of the light and it will give you oblique illumination. Have a try.

Make sure that the you have the Brightfield port in the correct position. It is indicated by a letter 'J' See image

[sbaum]

Thanks for that picture. I was aware "J" setting but I didn't know what the other two knobs were for. I did look through the manual and think I have a good idea of how do phase. It looks like I need a green filter which didn't come with my microscope. I am ordering one today.