Could i get a cooler bulb?

[DonSchaeffer]

My microscope uses a halogen 20 watt bulb. Can I get a cooler bulb for it? Is it possible to adapt it to LED even?

[Zuul]

LED retrofits are popular, but need to be done properly to maintain optical performance. What kind of scope is it? That will help folks point you in the right direction.

[DonSchaeffer]

It's an Amscope m500.

[ImperatorRex]

Simple solution would probabely to place a blue filter glas into the filter holder (under the condenser) or maybe on top of the field diaphragma.

[DonSchaeffer]

Thanks guys. I do use a blue filter in the filter holder. The problem is the lamp gets very hot. I have to be careful when I open the filter holder underneath if the light is not cooled down.

[MichaelG.]

I’m guessing that Jochen was thinking ‘cooler’ in the sense of colour temperature.

MichaelG.

[DrPhoxinus]

Halogens operate at 260 C
any lower and they darken and fail prematurely

[DonSchaeffer]

I suppose conversion to led would not be feasible.

[micro]

If the issue is the brightness being too much on your eyes you can hook up a dslr to a computer monitor and not even have to use the eye pieces at all.

[BramHuntingNematodes]

I suppose conversion to led would not be feasible.

Maybe something like:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinf ... 7hEALw_wcB

[BramHuntingNematodes]

also I find that LEDs benefit quite a bit from diffusers. Esslinger sells watch glass cheaply in nearly any size. I got some and scrubbed one with some 400 grit sand paper for about 20 minutes. Works great.

[ImperatorRex]

I’m guessing that Jochen was thinking ‘cooler’ in the sense of colour temperature.

Correct Michael. Did not thought that there are temperature issues.

[DonSchaeffer]

I actually like the brightness of the light. It's just the heat! I don't know if I can find a bulb that would fit the lamp.

[Zuul]

I couldn’t find any information on the lighting set up of that scope, and I don’t have first hand experience with anything similar, so it’s hard to give good advice. Some scopes use carefully engineered optics to focus directly on the bulb’s filament. Putting any old LED replacement bulb in those will hurt performance. Others just shine light through a diffuser and call it a day. The right LED for those would be different (but probably easier).

There are LED replacements that will fit directly. It’s the same bulb used in lots of older sewing machines. ( I bought one for my vintage Pfaff....got it at Lowe’s if I remember right) There are different styles, though, and some will work better than others. Maybe snap a pic of the light set-up?

[MichaelG.]

It's an Amscope m500.

I just found some very brief information about the lamp, here:

https://www.thenile.co.nz/toys/amscope- ... 3964501100
.

Tungsten (incandescent) illumination provides bright light, and a rheostat controls the amount of light emanating from the lamp.

Obviously, turning that rheostat down a little should reduce the heat: but beyond that, we need to know more details.

MichaelG.

.

Edit: Unfortunately the official manual for ‘complete M500 series’ tells us that the lamp is LED
https://www.amscope.com/download
... does anyone have an earlier version of the manual ?
... or preferably some detail photos of the tungsten illuminator ?

[Hobbyst46]

I actually like the brightness of the light. It's just the heat! I don't know if I can find a bulb that would fit the lamp.

Since AmScope markets microscopes with LED illuminators as well, their customer service can probably suggest a LED alternative.

[Mraster2]

My microscope uses a halogen 20 watt bulb. Can I get a cooler bulb for it? Is it possible to adapt it to LED even?

There are many LED replacements for many types of halogen, we just need to determine which type you have, so >

To be able to change the bulb you will need to get the old one out, , ,
Yes, that is a statement of obvious ! But stay with me !! >

Can you do that ? Is it easy, without breaking something ?

So, do a dummy run,
and at the same time take a photo of the bulb,
and perhaps also its holder / socket.

Show them here, perhaps it will be a standard type, or a type which someone will know about.

[DonSchaeffer]

Good suggestions.

[Hobbyst46]

These photos of the bulb and socket show that it is an incandescent bulb, not halogen. In line with what the brochures of the Amscope M500 say.
Hence, dimming it will negatively affect the color temperature, even worse than what would happen to halogen light.
Bayonet-mounting incandescent bulbs are common; common halogen bulbs have two pins instead.

[DonSchaeffer]

Thanks! OK that answers my issue. I appreciate it. (I was about to post a corrected image of the bottom of the bulb but now I don't have to).

[Hobbyst46]

Thanks! OK that answers my issue. I appreciate it. (I was about to post a corrected image of the bottom of the bulb but now I don't have to).

I suggest you re-post those images. A close-up of the socket might help us to find a small LED that connects to that socket, or a LED+replacement socket.
A 3W will provide very bright cool light, much better than the incandescent. I would try even a 1-2W LED if it can fit the socket.

Please note, however, that even a 3W LED emits heat. If the microscope baseparts around the socket are all plastic, and there is no metal that can serve as heat sink, local heating could melt the plastic and damage the microscope base. So, the idea must be tested in short-term sessions.

[DonSchaeffer]

socket.jpg (169.27 KiB) Viewed 8905 times

bulbbottom.jpg (253.97 KiB) Viewed 8905 times

bulb.jpg (277.99 KiB) Viewed 8905 times

Everything is metal. Plastic would have melted by now.

Thanks. If I could find an LED replacement it would make me happy.

[MichaelG.]

Don,

With the very important caveat that I am showing a 240v lamp

This is the sort of thing I think you need for a simple conversion:
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTPY2BC.html

You just need to find the 110v equivalent.

MichaelG.

[Mraster2]

Thanks! OK that answers my issue. I appreciate it. (I was about to post a corrected image of the bottom of the bulb but now I don't have to).

Oh, I think I must be missing some posts, what image of what bulb where ! I think my browser is out of sync somewhere (and now I see a lot of pics later)
so if my earlier post didnt appear to make sense I apologize because of that lack !!

Anyway, good luck with your hunt

Edit later:

Thanks! OK that answers my issue. I appreciate it. (I was about to post a corrected image of the bottom of the bulb but now I don't have to).

I suggest you re-post those images.

Ah, now I understand why my view is out of sync!
Thanks Hobbyst46, I thought I had a failing grip on reality

[Hobbyst46]

Don,

With the very important caveat that I am showing a 240v lamp

This is the sort of thing I think you need for a simple conversion:
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTPY2BC.html

You just need to find the 110v equivalent.

MichaelG.

Michael, what do you think of the 2200K color temperature ? would it be dark yellow ?

[Mraster2]

I dont want to be alarmist but as it is 110v and not a low voltage incandescent some care should be taken not to let vital smoke escape !

If the 'scope description/specification is being electrically exact then a rheostat (ie. a variable resistor) is not a good way to control an LED

It isnt an efficient way of controlling an incandescent bulb either. A rheostat and incandesent bulb is very Victorian. But that is another topic.

If however the rheostat is a descriptive term in lieu of a more precise term (electronic variable regulator of various types, such as the dimmers fitted as replacements to household lighting switch faceplates (in the UK anyway) ) then that is another kettle of fish !

Some LEDs are specified as dimmable so ymmv.

Another thing to watch for is the envelope dimension. While the bayonet base will be ok, the globe of some LED replacements can be wide.

[MichaelG.]

If the 'scope description/specification is being electrically exact then a rheostat (ie. a variable resistor) is not a good way to control an LED

.

Good point ... but this Amscope business is very confusing.

The description that I found mentioned a rheostat, but Don’s photo appears to show a simple switch.

MichaelG.

[MichaelG.]

Michael, what do you think of the 2200K color temperature ? would it be dark yellow ?

Very warm white, rather than ‘dark yellow’ I would say
... rather like a slightly under-run tungsten lamp.

I will try to post some illustrations later.

MichaelG.

.

Edit: This one should do for starters:
https://www.mediacollege.com/lighting/c ... ature.html
.
Edit: https://www.reddit.com/r/Damnthatsinter ... peratures/
.
Edit: remembering, of course, that most LEDs only approximate ‘black body radiation’ ... which is the basis of ‘colour temperature’

[Mraster2]

this Amscope business is very confusing.

The description that I found mentioned a rheostat, but Don’s photo appears to show a simple switch.

Yes! Join the club

Yes, a good point also.
I have seen similar descriptions with pictures showing a switch.

Also to add to mystification there is a
"AmScope M500-led Wireless Monocular Microscope Compound Wf10 Rechargeable"
which shows a wallwart supply - so, low voltage.
I think Wf is appropriate, just missing a 't' !
The overall view looks structurally similar and that would make sense, it does have a user knob so I guess there is room inside for a mod to something sensible but , ,

, , I think we need someone who has actually done it to one of Don's type to advise.

[Mraster2]

Michael, what do you think of the 2200K color temperature ? would it be dark yellow ?

Edit: remembering, of course, that most LEDs only approximate ‘black body radiation’ ... which is the basis of ‘colour temperature’

Heheh! You beat me to it !
Anything much less than 2200K would be a red dwarf !?