Retired now, and looking to obtain first scope for hobby use

[steinjw]

Hello All,
I am retired, a bit of an audio hobbyist, and time for learning about (a) circuits and board work, and (b) assessing condition of phono cartridge styli.
So, will be looking to purchase first microscope, I presume a binocular, with magnification ranges appropriate for dual use as above, I'd assume perhaps 45 to at least 200 times magnification.
On brief review, so much to understand in the realm of microscopy, so I look forward to learning from all here.
Located in Pittsburgh, PA.
Thanks to the forum managers and participants in advance - I certainly appreciate the opportunity provided.
Regards,
Jim S.

[75RR]

Hi steinjw, welcome

I would suggest looking at a stereoscope on a boom for starters. You will definitely find it more practical than one on a stand.

If you felt you needed to extend the magnification for a specific job you could purchase higher magnification eyepieces for it.

[MicroBob]

Hi Jim,
for work on electronic boards stero microscopes are used. A colleague repairs smartphones with my 10-30x magnification stereo microscope so this will do for this job. For 200x combined magnification you need an objective that offers a lot of resolution. There are stereomicroscops that allow this, but they are very expensive. A high resolution objective also has a very shallow depth of field so on a 3d-object you only see one height level sharp at all times.
In a stereo microscope I would look for a small lower magnification like 7x or 10x, not more.

Bob

[jfiresto]

A stereo microscope on a boom stand is ideal for electronics inspection. 3-20X magnification is a good range: 3X for quickly scanning a large area and 20X for investigating things that look suspicious, for example, funny looking (is that a crack?) solder joints. Typically people add on an 0.5X auxiliary objective to lower the magnification into that range – and to win working distance for soldering and hot air tools.

Both Greenough- and CMO-design microscopes are popular. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Greenough is the most popular. A Common Main Objective microscope and polarized lighting is arguably nirvana, but that takes more effort and money to realize. One of the phono cartridge makers had their techs use the Wild M3, a simple and robust, fixed magnification (6.4, 16 and 40X), CMO achromat.

[PeteM]

+1 more for a stereo microscope. You'll likely want one with a long working distance - something not all of the cheaper imports will have. A used microscope is good shape is likely your best value, but you will want to be able to see it in person or be sure you can easily return it if the lens are clouded, the optical paths out of alignment, etc. For around $200-250 you should be able to get something like a Nikon, Olympus, American Optical, or Bausch and Lomb stereo zoom. There is an article floating around the web on stereo microscopes to buy and to avoid, in case you find a decent Unitron, a great Wild or Mitutoyo, etc.

If you want to look at wafers and extremely small details as well, could be an epi or reflected light microscope might eventually be in the mix.

On the magnification front, you really want to have a low power around 7x, 10x at the most, available. This is plenty for identifying most components, soldering, etc. -- and gives you some working distance. Then go up to maybe 40x or more with supplementary lenses. After some experience and above 80x think about adding a used epi microscope.

[steinjw]

Hi steinjw, welcome

I would suggest looking at a stereoscope on a boom for starters. You will definitely find it more practical than one on a stand.

If you felt you needed to extend the magnification for a specific job you could purchase higher magnification eyepieces for it.

Many thanks RR75 - now I must look up "fashion-challenged" scopes in my search! - Jim

[steinjw]

Hi Jim,
for work on electronic boards stero microscopes are used. A colleague repairs smartphones with my 10-30x magnification stereo microscope so this will do for this job. For 200x combined magnification you need an objective that offers a lot of resolution. There are stereomicroscops that allow this, but they are very expensive. A high resolution objective also has a very shallow depth of field so on a 3d-object you only see one height level sharp at all times.
In a stereo microscope I would look for a small lower magnification like 7x or 10x, not more.

Bob

Thank you for the tips Bob - yes, I think that 3-D would be a necessary factor to take into account, and your recommendation is very practical.
Regards - Jim

[steinjw]

A stereo microscope on a boom stand is ideal for electronics inspection. 3-20X magnification is a good range: 3X for quickly scanning a large area and 20X for investigating things that look suspicious, for example, funny looking (is that a crack?) solder joints. Typically people add on an 0.5X auxiliary objective to lower the magnification into that range – and to win working distance for soldering and hot air tools.

Both Greenough- and CMO-design microscopes are popular. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Greenough is the most popular. A Common Main Objective microscope and polarized lighting is arguably nirvana, but that takes more effort and money to realize. One of the phono cartridge makers had their techs use the Wild M3, a simple and robust, fixed magnification (6.4, 16 and 40X), CMO achromat.
[/quote

John - Thank you so much for the very specific recommendations. I will look into each element associated with your comments.
Appreciated, more than you could know.

[steinjw]

+1 more for a stereo microscope. You'll likely want one with a long working distance - something not all of the cheaper imports will have. A used microscope is good shape is likely your best value, but you will want to be able to see it in person or be sure you can easily return it if the lens are clouded, the optical paths out of alignment, etc. For around $200-250 you should be able to get something like a Nikon, Olympus, American Optical, or Bausch and Lomb stereo zoom. There is an article floating around the web on stereo microscopes to buy and to avoid, in case you find a decent Unitron, a great Wild or Mitutoyo, etc.

If you want to look at wafers and extremely small details as well, could be an epi or reflected light microscope might eventually be in the mix.

On the magnification front, you really want to have a low power around 7x, 10x at the most, available. This is plenty for identifying most components, soldering, etc. -- and gives you some working distance. Then go up to maybe 40x or more with supplementary lenses. After some experience and above 80x think about adding a used epi microscope.

Pete - this is beginning to make sense to me. Your comments much appreciated on this end.
Jim