Restoring an Olympus IMT-2

[essence25]

Hello lads,

I'm new here and I kinda barged in without a proper introduction. I'm an old school electronics engineer with allot of hobbies, repair vintage audio such as DAT recorders, IP PTZ cameras, nixie tubes clocks and vu-meters, 3D master stereo viewers and slides (I do hold Hugo de Wijs View-Master #113 seen in the online museum)
So I recently got bit by the microscopy bug, stung me with a huge needle so I went and bought an Olympus IMT-2 microscope, paid $450 locally for it. Was very excited to bring it home. Unit looked good had all objectives and the ULWD Phase Condenser .30.

Upon closer inspection in addition to a damaged power switch rocker which I repaired with epoxy and re-capped the electronic PCB, there was dirt and stuff when I looked through the microscope and a stuck condenser adjustment mechanism. So I decided to take it apart for cleanup. I only took out parts that were not in the calibrated path. Cleaned all prisms and light path selector, took apart the binocular, disassembled the two adjustable objectives(frozen adjustment collars) Also disassembled the condenser and cleaned it very well. So far no issues and optics look super clean. While I'm a beginner in microscopy I'm very proficient in working with fine mechanics and complex equipment. The XY stage is missing one piece that holds the slide carrier on left side, its a small piece that goes on a V type rail. With all being said I'm not and expert and I have a ton to learn hence joining this amazing forum.

I have the following questions:
1. I'm buying some dark-field adapters off ebay and need to know where to place them. Do I get 45mm ones that go in the top filter holder, or 32mm which I can place on top of the condenser right above the entry glass(top).
2. What filters do I need to buy to experience all capabilities of the scope, the top 4pcs filter holder is empty..(thinking green and blue?)
3. It came with 2 dichroic mirrors labeled B and G, perhaps this was equipped with a fluorescence lamp, gone now. Can I use those mirrors as interference filters in place of filters at top? If not do I need to remove these from the microscope? is there a need for them outside of fluorescence?
4. Is this a good scope for photography and quality imaging? How do these rate quality wise? did I do good for $450?
5. Last pic shows a small flower like stain(not mould from what I can seee) which is located below the prisms on the light path selector carrier, I don't want to disassemble it since it involves the removal of knob cover which is glued to the knob and don't want to damage it. So cleaning this glass/polarizer will be a pita since I need to work from the bottom of the scope(I was able to clean the mirror and lens tube that is also in the light path at the bottom. My question is how sensitive or intrusive will be that speck? seen from side illumination by flash-light in the light path. Cannot be seen through objective normally. I can attempt cleaning if its critical. The other two positions are clean, this one is in the path of the MTU 20% going to eye piece and unobstructed going to side camera/tube expansion port. So it affects only the image at the binocular.

Let me know you guys thoughts, when I get into a hobby I jump in all the way LOL, I do have a Motic B1 and a Wolfe which is same but with a camera built into the head that I plan to swap out for better internal cam.

Thank you all!

Here are some pics of my progress. (some show before and after in non specific order)

https://www.easyzoom.com/albumaccess/b7 ... 18a93ea28/

P.S.
(Someone please tell me how to use the easyzoom, I selected easyzoom from editor and pasted the album link in between and nothing, still goes to external link)

[Sure Squintsalot]

Nice work!

Totally opposite to the way I do these things; I fix/clean to the point I can see something.

then stop.

[essence25]

Nice work!

Totally opposite to the way I do these things; I fix/clean to the point I can see something.

then stop.

Thank you!

LoL, I clean things to the point where it looks factory assembly clean and I cannot see any specs or fogging on anything. Except where I cannot reach and even there I make all kinds of jigs that can help me reach things. I do have to say, its is very time consuming since I avoid rushing or taking any chances. So far is all pristine except this last part that is screwing with my inner perfectionist OCD.




What should I do with this one? I can clean it but it will be difficult. That is the path for the MTU with 20% into the eyepieces. So that glass affects the eyepieces only.

[Hobbyst46]

I am guessing that the dichroic mirrors are shown in photo 4EE5A449-EA12-41C4-BA52-3BE949AABE9F ?

Anyway, AFAIK dichroic mirrors (DM) are only interesting for fluorescence. They can be used of course for other modalities, if you accept that the colors of the image will not be realistic; because the DM cuts off all light above a certain wavelength. Moreover, some mirrors have funny transmission spectra, for example, inverse peaks (zero transmission) even at shorter wavelengths than the main cutoff. I do not know what the B and G stand for, but old Olympus manuals probably describe them. Of course, holding the DM to bright daylight hints about the cutoff.

BTW, quality DMs are expensive !! especially new ones - they typically cost $100 or more.

[essence25]

I am guessing that the dichroic mirrors are shown in photo 4EE5A449-EA12-41C4-BA52-3BE949AABE9F ?

Anyway, AFAIK dichroic mirrors (DM) are only interesting for fluorescence. They can be used of course for other modalities, if you accept that the colors of the image will not be realistic; because the DM cuts off all light above a certain wavelength. Moreover, some mirrors have funny transmission spectra, for example, inverse peaks (zero transmission) even at shorter wavelengths than the main cutoff. I do not know what the B and G stand for, but old Olympus manuals probably describe them. Of course, holding the DM to bright daylight hints about the cutoff.

BTW, quality DMs are expensive !! especially new ones - they typically cost $100 or more.

Correct, there are two that I can push pull into the light path. I belive the G=green and B=blue? there is one more called V=UV? which I do not have.

[Dubious]

Congrats on the IMT-2, sounds like a reasonable price. I, too, have the IMT-2 and like it--except for the size and weight... There are at least 4 turret condensers available: the ULWD Phase you have, a similar LWD Phase, a Hoffman/Phase, and a DIC/Phase turret.

While I don't have the ULWD condenser, which may give more latitude, I think you will need to put the darkfield or elliptical stops as close as possible to the diaphragm. You might want to prepare some crude cut-outs from black plastic or card stock and do some experimentation to establish the best location.

Two camera options: (1) the camera port in front is intended for a full-frame camera. Unless something was removed, it already has the photo lens installed internally and an Olympus OM fitting on the outside, so is ready to go. You can use a smaller format camera such as APS/C but will get only the center portion of what you see in the eyepiece--works fine, though, I think. OM adapters for all the main camera brands are readily available and cheap. (2) The side camera port is more versatile but more trouble, as you will need to find an Olympus photo lens suitable for the frame size you want and mounting hardware for the camera. The Photo lens inserts directly into the side port, and one may already be there, but probably not (wasn't with mine).

[Tom Jones]

Third camera option is to replace the IMT binoc head with a BH-2 Trinoc, add the appropriate projection lens and adapters for your camera and frame size, then utilize that just like it was a BH-2.

[woyjwjl]

In my experience with BH2, if you can't fix a stain on an optical part (or anything that makes you OCD) with waterless alcohol, let it go or you'll regret being handy.

[essence25]

Hah, I did let it go with no attempts. Instead I moved to the focusing system, complete teardown, feozen micro bearings(had to repack them) etc. Even though it worked I was blown away on how much stuck dirt/grit is on the entire thing. When I'm done, it will focus smooth as new off factory asembly line. Pics will follow soon. I made all parts look like an expensive watch. Soon to complete the scope, had to rebuild gearbox too. The rest, I disassembled enough so every lens and mirror is accessible. Cleaned the primary mirror also, was hazy with glazing from the sands of time, very delicate and hard to clean but its like new now. I'm all in!

[essence25]

Can someone tell me, does any Philips or similar 12v 50w halogen work in this Olympus IMT-2? Are those "projection" halogens I see on ebay ok to buy. Some sellers on Amazon wsnt $30 for one which I'm not even sure what brand etc.

Lastly can a "frosted" halogen be good to use, not as main but to play around...

[Dubious]

Can someone tell me, does any Philips or similar 12v 50w halogen work in this Olympus IMT-2? Are those "projection" halogens I see on ebay ok to buy. Some sellers on Amazon wsnt $30 for one which I'm not even sure what brand etc.

Lastly can a "frosted" halogen be good to use, not as main but to play around...

You would at least need the right fitment/form factor. I've found some uncertainty and confusion when it comes to replacement bulbs. Ones that purport to be for the IMT-2 can be found at Interlightus at $13.

https://www.interlightus.com/light-bulb/BRL

Interlightus also has the 8-C407 for $13, which Olympus has designated as a replacement for the IMT-2:

http://www.alanwood.net/downloads/olymp ... atalog.pdf

https://www.interlightus.com/light-bulb/OLYMPUS-8-C407

[Rorschach]

Old thread but I am curious how it went with the darkfield experiment? It seems like strange omission by Olympus, not to have a factory-made option for this. After all, darkfield is very useful to have.