remarkable labor and Patience.Thanks to the involves for the masters class.
NIKON PlanApo 100X/140 oil that is a PlanApo 60X/140 oil
Re: NIKON PlanApo 100X/140 oil that is a PlanApo 60X/140 oil
remarkable labor and Patience.Thanks to the involves for the masters class.
Re: NIKON PlanApo 100X/140 oil that is a PlanApo 60X/140 oil
Thank you all for the help providedand as a small contribution to the group I leave what I have learned in this experience: (the first: not to be "out of my depth")
1. The best thing to clean the lenses is to use Fairy or equivalent, isopropyl alcohol, although it cleans, is a very bad degreaser, it leaves a small film that has to be rubbed to remove it, something that is not good for the lens.
2. Using ultrasound helps to remove small particles, although my fear is that it can also remove small particles of the black paint that is usually used inside the rings that hold the lenses. I haven't noticed that it has affected these or any glue they may have.
3. You have to be very patient and not use brute force to dismantle it. (And if you use mechanical devices to help, you must follow the advice of apochronaut says “Don't forget to put the thermostat back in your car.” Mine is back)
4. When removing the lenses you have to mark the order in which they went both vertically and horizontally (I think I did it perfectly in terms of the vertical order but I have doubts if I did it perfectly in terms of the horizontal axis).
5. You have to practice many times to assemble the most difficult pieces (especially if you are 75 years old and have shaky fingers). The difficult parts in this case were the front lens and the famous shims (a Japanese punishment).
6. To place the front lens I used a clamp whose arms I protected with carpenter's tape to avoid scratching the clean lens.
7. To deposit the epoxy on the metal part where the front lens fits, I used a kind of long, pointed needle that helped me do it very carefully.
8. I used a stopwatch since the epoxy begins to harden after 2 minutes (according to what the packaging says) so you have to take that into account so that the paste is fluid enough and spreads evenly over the metal ring that holds the front lens. I estimated the time needed to be only 1 and ½ minutes.
9. Before doing it, practice many times (logical, without glue). This is very important, at least for me, because desperation and insecurity cause many mistakes to be made, causing time to be wasted trying to correct them.
10. The time calculation is made from when the two parts of the epoxy are deposited on the surface where it is going to be mixed, time to make the mixture, use of the needle to deposit the glue on the front metal part (in my case they were 11 drops), then position the lens with tweezers, then insert the cork, adapted (according to apochronaut's instructions), and check that the lens is perfectly centered and finally press the lens so that the epoxy spreads evenly. My initial time was 3 minutes. I was wasting time crashing into the edges of the target, I decided it was better to use my arm like a “robot” to collect the glue with the needle, then raise my hand up, then move it towards the target and lower my hand, raise it back up and so many times they were necessary. I managed to reduce the time to 1 ½ minutes (after practicing for a few days)
11. Well, the above was the theory but the fear of failing prevented me from taking the next step until my wife's shout of 'DO IT' encouraged me (she wanted to recover the kitchen counter on which I started to work, the lunch time was approaching). I dared and went from theory to practice, I put the glue, then the lens, I checked that it was well centered and I pressed with the cork and only a minimal amount of epoxy came out of the front part which I cleaned carefully. Placing tiny droplets of the glue like a bee on her honeycomb worked.
12. After about two weeks I assembled the lens tower one on top of the other according to their order and installed the famous shims. These were constantly falling out of place. I noticed where they were going there were small marks on the metal and I deduced that they used some kind of soft glue to keep them in place. Without entrusting myself to either God or the devil (or asking Apochronaut) with the help of a brush I diluted magic glue in water and with a minimal pass of the brush over 4 points of the shims I managed to keep them in place.
13. I gently slid the lens tower onto its barrel and finally checked that it was in the proper horizontal rotation through the 4 holes (it wasn't). I made the second lens go to its place perfectly thanks to the marks I made in the four holes that are used to insert the glue that holds that second lens.
14. Now I have to get a better oil and leave the corn oil to use to make pop corn.
I hope this experience encourages others in similar circumstances that left me devastated.
1. The best thing to clean the lenses is to use Fairy or equivalent, isopropyl alcohol, although it cleans, is a very bad degreaser, it leaves a small film that has to be rubbed to remove it, something that is not good for the lens.
2. Using ultrasound helps to remove small particles, although my fear is that it can also remove small particles of the black paint that is usually used inside the rings that hold the lenses. I haven't noticed that it has affected these or any glue they may have.
3. You have to be very patient and not use brute force to dismantle it. (And if you use mechanical devices to help, you must follow the advice of apochronaut says “Don't forget to put the thermostat back in your car.” Mine is back)
4. When removing the lenses you have to mark the order in which they went both vertically and horizontally (I think I did it perfectly in terms of the vertical order but I have doubts if I did it perfectly in terms of the horizontal axis).
5. You have to practice many times to assemble the most difficult pieces (especially if you are 75 years old and have shaky fingers). The difficult parts in this case were the front lens and the famous shims (a Japanese punishment).
6. To place the front lens I used a clamp whose arms I protected with carpenter's tape to avoid scratching the clean lens.
7. To deposit the epoxy on the metal part where the front lens fits, I used a kind of long, pointed needle that helped me do it very carefully.
8. I used a stopwatch since the epoxy begins to harden after 2 minutes (according to what the packaging says) so you have to take that into account so that the paste is fluid enough and spreads evenly over the metal ring that holds the front lens. I estimated the time needed to be only 1 and ½ minutes.
9. Before doing it, practice many times (logical, without glue). This is very important, at least for me, because desperation and insecurity cause many mistakes to be made, causing time to be wasted trying to correct them.
10. The time calculation is made from when the two parts of the epoxy are deposited on the surface where it is going to be mixed, time to make the mixture, use of the needle to deposit the glue on the front metal part (in my case they were 11 drops), then position the lens with tweezers, then insert the cork, adapted (according to apochronaut's instructions), and check that the lens is perfectly centered and finally press the lens so that the epoxy spreads evenly. My initial time was 3 minutes. I was wasting time crashing into the edges of the target, I decided it was better to use my arm like a “robot” to collect the glue with the needle, then raise my hand up, then move it towards the target and lower my hand, raise it back up and so many times they were necessary. I managed to reduce the time to 1 ½ minutes (after practicing for a few days)
11. Well, the above was the theory but the fear of failing prevented me from taking the next step until my wife's shout of 'DO IT' encouraged me (she wanted to recover the kitchen counter on which I started to work, the lunch time was approaching). I dared and went from theory to practice, I put the glue, then the lens, I checked that it was well centered and I pressed with the cork and only a minimal amount of epoxy came out of the front part which I cleaned carefully. Placing tiny droplets of the glue like a bee on her honeycomb worked.
12. After about two weeks I assembled the lens tower one on top of the other according to their order and installed the famous shims. These were constantly falling out of place. I noticed where they were going there were small marks on the metal and I deduced that they used some kind of soft glue to keep them in place. Without entrusting myself to either God or the devil (or asking Apochronaut) with the help of a brush I diluted magic glue in water and with a minimal pass of the brush over 4 points of the shims I managed to keep them in place.
13. I gently slid the lens tower onto its barrel and finally checked that it was in the proper horizontal rotation through the 4 holes (it wasn't). I made the second lens go to its place perfectly thanks to the marks I made in the four holes that are used to insert the glue that holds that second lens.
14. Now I have to get a better oil and leave the corn oil to use to make pop corn.
I hope this experience encourages others in similar circumstances that left me devastated.