Optiphot, direct projection?

[ChrisR]

Was there a version of the trinocular head which allowed direct projection on to a camera sensor?

Assume I'm using an APS or DX camera:
As Nikon made no 1.6x projection photo eyepiece, I'd either have to use a 2.5x and effectively crop the middle, or remove the trinoc and focus via the camera.

i assume that if there's a short trinoc (possibly the "viewing" variety?) then I should be able to get a sensor in the right place to be parfocal with the eyepiece image.

thanks

[abednego1995]

Hi Chris, the Optiphot-2 trinocular head allows direct projection for 2/3" sensors through a C-mount
So I guess you could squeeze some kind of very thin adapter in between a short flange to sensor camera.
I've never tried direct projection on APS sized sensors on this head.
Why not just skip the head and use a dovetail from RafCamera+bellows or some rigid extension tube?

Cheers,
John

[ChrisR]

Thanks John.

"Why not just skip the head and use a dovetail from RafCamera+bellows or some rigid extension tube?"

I have a dovetail adapter, but then I'd need a monitor, etc. I'd rather use the eyepieces if I can.

I have a Nikon " 1.0x " C-mount projection eyepiece. Would that also be intended for a 2/3 sensor? A you say the rear distance may be too small.

A µ4/3 body might fit somewhere? (cf Lou Jost's Oly Pen)

[abednego1995]

Yup, but again, many modern automated microscopes just skip the head. I sometimes use a tube lens(f=100) equipped projection tube instead of a ocular head.

The 1.0x TV projection ocular only offers FN16mm, so an 1" sensor would be its maximum. I've tried it on a Nikon1 J5 with a 1" sensor, and it works but the periphery is not so pretty. Probably only a MFT sensor would be a sensible option.

So unless you badly need absolute large estate of a APS-C or FX, the most simple setup would be as below.
It easily covers an 1" sensor, and probably could go up to a 22mm diagonal sensor.

[ChrisR]

Thanks.
Is that system diagram ( with or without cyrillic overtyping!) online?

[iconoclastica]

Chris,

I use the discussion head to project the primary image onto the sensor directly. I use a dovetail adapter, m42 extension tube as (coarse) spacer, a helicoid for fine focusing, and finally an M42-EOS adapter. The image easily covers APS-C and is wider than seen through the eye-pieces. It may be that the head helps by adding a 1.25x magnification.

I saw that the photo tube of the regular trinoc head can be unscrewed into three parts. Quite likely you can do the same there if you remove the upper two parts.

Wim

[abednego1995]

So sorry for the snail response, here's the link.

http://xn--80aajzhcnfck0a.xn--p1ai/Publ ... 618880.pdf

[ChrisR]

Abednego - thanks , there's some desirable stuff in there!

Wim, thanks also.
I have gripped and applied quite a lot of torque to the upper part of a regular trinoc - it doesn't want to unscrew.
Perhaps there's thread-lock in there.
The T type I have also doesn't send all the light to the camera, in either position, which of course isn't ideal.
I can try dismantling from the lower end to see if a drop of solvent can be applied to the thread. There's only one apparent joint on it.

[abednego1995]

Chris, I think you've got the older T head for the original Optiphots and Labophots.
Loosen the small grub screw on the chimney, and you'll get better grip on the essential inner tube, and access to the threads.
And the T head only sends 86% of the light up to the camera in the photo mode. Go get the F type, the prism inside completely
swings out of the light path offering 100% transmission.

Cheers,
John

[Scarodactyl]

If I remember right the UW head is similar to the F head. If you can get one you ought to consider it. They are a pleasure to use.

[ChrisR]

John your're right, it's a T - in fact I have two. One came on a UM-2.
Loosen all three grub screws?

I'd have to swallow hard before buying a UW head.

[abednego1995]

Yup, those UW heads are amazing to see through with full 26.5mm FN available, pity it only sends up a fraction up the photo tube unless you remove the chimney.
And most of the time you have to do a thorough wipe down of the prisms which often are hazed with perhaps volatiles from the grease...which can drive you crazy.

>Chris
Yes, all three. They do nothing for alignment.