Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Hi, everybody.
I was able to get my hands on a Mitutoyo finescope fs100.
I took it apart completely so I could clean it up and I found this beautiful mirror I think it's a pelicle.
It has a lot of mold and fungus in it, but I'm AFREID to just bathe it in distilled water.
Please, what should I do?
Would it be possible to make a recommendation to clean it without damaging it or should I leave it as it is.
I want to show the microscope to this great group of microscopists from whom I have learned a lot.
It came with the uwf 10x 30 eyepieces
objectives M plan apo 2x 5x 10x 20x.
Thank you in advance for imparting so much knowledge to me.
I was able to get my hands on a Mitutoyo finescope fs100.
I took it apart completely so I could clean it up and I found this beautiful mirror I think it's a pelicle.
It has a lot of mold and fungus in it, but I'm AFREID to just bathe it in distilled water.
Please, what should I do?
Would it be possible to make a recommendation to clean it without damaging it or should I leave it as it is.
I want to show the microscope to this great group of microscopists from whom I have learned a lot.
It came with the uwf 10x 30 eyepieces
objectives M plan apo 2x 5x 10x 20x.
Thank you in advance for imparting so much knowledge to me.
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Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
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Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Hi,
Searching the web about the fs100, I find that (if new) it has both top and bottom illumination. Makes sense, since it is primarily a measurement microscope.
So I guess that the mirror you show is actually a half-mirror, namely a 50/50 beamsplitter, that is part of the top illuminator. To reflect the light beam onto the sample and pass the reflected light back to the camera and eyepieces.
If that is correct, it is has been coated with a reflective layer. It seems to be damaged.
I think that the only remedy is to find a replacement. Beamsplitters are available from various optical part suppliers, like Newport, Edmund etc.
Hope this helps.
Searching the web about the fs100, I find that (if new) it has both top and bottom illumination. Makes sense, since it is primarily a measurement microscope.
So I guess that the mirror you show is actually a half-mirror, namely a 50/50 beamsplitter, that is part of the top illuminator. To reflect the light beam onto the sample and pass the reflected light back to the camera and eyepieces.
If that is correct, it is has been coated with a reflective layer. It seems to be damaged.
I think that the only remedy is to find a replacement. Beamsplitters are available from various optical part suppliers, like Newport, Edmund etc.
Hope this helps.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Hobbyst46
Thank you for your kind cooperation.
When I got the microscope it was covered with a layer of dust and dirt, so I haven't tried it yet, what I did was to blow the dirt off with a hair dryer and started to disassemble it immediately, the electrical part works perfectly, the prisms of the head are in very good condition.
I think I'll leave the half mirror (beansplit) as it is, without touching it, I don't want to risk damaging it more.
I'll be commenting on its real performance once I finish and test it.
In your search for the fs100, didn't you find the user manual? I didn't find anything and I've been trying to find it for days, not even Mitutoyo's page.
Would you be so kind as to pass me the link
Thank you for your kind cooperation.
When I got the microscope it was covered with a layer of dust and dirt, so I haven't tried it yet, what I did was to blow the dirt off with a hair dryer and started to disassemble it immediately, the electrical part works perfectly, the prisms of the head are in very good condition.
I think I'll leave the half mirror (beansplit) as it is, without touching it, I don't want to risk damaging it more.
I'll be commenting on its real performance once I finish and test it.
In your search for the fs100, didn't you find the user manual? I didn't find anything and I've been trying to find it for days, not even Mitutoyo's page.
Would you be so kind as to pass me the link
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Regretfully, I did not find a manual. I visited the Mitutoyo site but they only speak of measuring devices, not microscopes. Sorry that I cannot help with that.Sabatini wrote: ↑Wed Feb 26, 2020 12:07 pmHobbyst46
Thank you for your kind cooperation.
When I got the microscope it was covered with a layer of dust and dirt, so I haven't tried it yet, what I did was to blow the dirt off with a hair dryer and started to disassemble it immediately, the electrical part works perfectly, the prisms of the head are in very good condition.
I think I'll leave the half mirror (beansplit) as it is, without touching it, I don't want to risk damaging it more.
I'll be commenting on its real performance once I finish and test it.
In your search for the fs100, didn't you find the user manual? I didn't find anything and I've been trying to find it for days, not even Mitutoyo's page.
Would you be so kind as to pass me the link
EDIT: here is a link to this scope in the other forum. Guys there are knowledgeable. Perhaps try to approach the fellow who bought it ?
https://photomacrography.net/forum/view ... 21a7981c32
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Hobbyst46
Very kind of you.
Do you think I should try to clean it up, or is it more likely to be damaged than improved?
Very kind of you.
Do you think I should try to clean it up, or is it more likely to be damaged than improved?
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Such coatings might be very sensitive. I would only blow off the dust, then try to use it as is.
A nice set of objectives! the /0 mark means that they are to be used on specimens without coverslips.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Hobbyst46
I appreciate all your support
Thanksyou.
I appreciate all your support
Thanksyou.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
https://www.newport.com/n/how-to-clean-optics
Buy Kimtech's kimwipes, fold one over and rip in half, then use that rough edge as a little brush with an alcohol/solvent, never brush dry. Don't use q-tips. Don't use microfiber clothes. They're too abrasive. Kimtech is supposed to not remove coatings. Microfiber does remove coatings. So those microfiber clothes grind eyeglasses of those LED screen coatings people paid extra for. Store the kimtech in a zip lock bag, or if it has been sitting there in the open for a while, throw away the first kimwipe as a sacrificial one to avoid the accumulated abrasive dust from the air.
Newport mentions "a mix of 60% acetone† and 40% methanol" and "acetone-impenetrable gloves" Some people worry about mounting cements with acetone. Haven't confirmed anything about it, other than any cements I wanted to remove on Leica parts ignored my efforts with acetone.
If you do use acetone, use latex gloves to avoid putting human oils into the solution. Avoid vinyl as it dissolves, very slowly, but still dissolves in acetone and technically pollutes the solution as well.
SIDE NOTE ABOUT SEARCHING THE INTERNETS: Some people like coin collectors who also want to remove organics off of surfaces will post about how dangerous acetone is, and not because it is flammable like alcohol but basically because they fear the smell. You can touch acetone. The human body makes it after all. The smell is pungent though. People on the Atkins diet have bad breath because of ketosis, which is the ketone of acetone in their breath. You have to be pretty intentional to find a way to O.D. on acetone.
Buy Kimtech's kimwipes, fold one over and rip in half, then use that rough edge as a little brush with an alcohol/solvent, never brush dry. Don't use q-tips. Don't use microfiber clothes. They're too abrasive. Kimtech is supposed to not remove coatings. Microfiber does remove coatings. So those microfiber clothes grind eyeglasses of those LED screen coatings people paid extra for. Store the kimtech in a zip lock bag, or if it has been sitting there in the open for a while, throw away the first kimwipe as a sacrificial one to avoid the accumulated abrasive dust from the air.
Newport mentions "a mix of 60% acetone† and 40% methanol" and "acetone-impenetrable gloves" Some people worry about mounting cements with acetone. Haven't confirmed anything about it, other than any cements I wanted to remove on Leica parts ignored my efforts with acetone.
If you do use acetone, use latex gloves to avoid putting human oils into the solution. Avoid vinyl as it dissolves, very slowly, but still dissolves in acetone and technically pollutes the solution as well.
SIDE NOTE ABOUT SEARCHING THE INTERNETS: Some people like coin collectors who also want to remove organics off of surfaces will post about how dangerous acetone is, and not because it is flammable like alcohol but basically because they fear the smell. You can touch acetone. The human body makes it after all. The smell is pungent though. People on the Atkins diet have bad breath because of ketosis, which is the ketone of acetone in their breath. You have to be pretty intentional to find a way to O.D. on acetone.
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Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
I have not had any trouble with q-tips removing coatings, for the record. Plenty of people seem to use them without trouble, though kimwipes seem like they should be a better option if available.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
When it comes to the cleaning of very delicate surfaces the cleaning medium is often less of a problem than abrasive dirt on the surface is. It gets wiped over the surface and scratches it.
For this application the half silvered mirror in its momentary state might actually be good enough as it is only used for lighting purposes. I have recently bought a (smaller) half silvered mirror from Aliexpress.
@Scarodactyl: To make sure: Did or did they not remove coatings?
Bob
For this application the half silvered mirror in its momentary state might actually be good enough as it is only used for lighting purposes. I have recently bought a (smaller) half silvered mirror from Aliexpress.
@Scarodactyl: To make sure: Did or did they not remove coatings?
Bob
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Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
No removal of coatings (obviously I can't guarantee this in every case, I just haven't had trouble with it). You definitely have to be careful of abrasive grit or dust having settled on the surface you're cleaning as you say.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Well, I think these instructions encourage me to take the initiative to try to do something about cleaning the half mirror.
Although Hobbyst46 only recommends that I blow it out with air, because of the delicate coating.
I'm going to try to clean the edges first, a little bit on the edges only... and see what happens.
thank you allá for sharing your knowledge.
Although Hobbyst46 only recommends that I blow it out with air, because of the delicate coating.
I'm going to try to clean the edges first, a little bit on the edges only... and see what happens.
thank you allá for sharing your knowledge.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
The Newport instructions give that as a first step to try (air blowing).
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Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Blowing should be a first step in this type of situation for sure. That mold will need something more, but this is an industrial scope and was once in an industrial environment, so all sorts of crazy grit could have gotten on it.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
If the part itself can handle it washing under flowing water with a bit of dish cleaning agent is quite a mild method of cleaning.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Greetings,.
The option of giving him a bath of soap with water I think it would work, I'll try it like this and then I'll show you how it looks.
Thank you
The option of giving him a bath of soap with water I think it would work, I'll try it like this and then I'll show you how it looks.
Thank you
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Well, thank you for your instructions, what I did was, dish soap water, shake it into the soap mixture, then rinse it with distilled water, 1 full bottle and dry it with a cotton facial cleanser, then blow it with the hair dryer in cold mode.
The fungus didn't come out all the way, I see that there is something left there, but I am not going to go further, I rubbed it almost nothing, just rinse it with the soap and for the moment you can see the mirror effect well, we will have to wait to try it.
Now I am going to focus on the focusing mechanism, because as Scarodactyl said, it feels full of thick residue.
The fungus didn't come out all the way, I see that there is something left there, but I am not going to go further, I rubbed it almost nothing, just rinse it with the soap and for the moment you can see the mirror effect well, we will have to wait to try it.
Now I am going to focus on the focusing mechanism, because as Scarodactyl said, it feels full of thick residue.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
You can try the solution of %5 Hydroxide Peroxide at your own risk. I had a Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 and it developed a massive fungus on the front lens while it was in my parents basement for more than 2 decades. I wondered that I cannot make it worst so let's do a bit of percussive maintenance and soak the front lens in H2O2 for a few hours and to my surprise, it worked quite well.
H2O2 can be a bit aggressive (specially high concentrations) on lens oatings, but it was an old lens (my favorite childhood object in the whole universe) and I suspect it didn't have any coating and no harm was done in the end.
%5 Hydroxide Peroxide is on the safe side and risk of damaging coatings is very low.
H2O2 can be a bit aggressive (specially high concentrations) on lens oatings, but it was an old lens (my favorite childhood object in the whole universe) and I suspect it didn't have any coating and no harm was done in the end.
%5 Hydroxide Peroxide is on the safe side and risk of damaging coatings is very low.
Daruosh.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Well thanks for the recommendation, but as microbob recommends not to be too demanding with this and since its purpose is only the lighting pass true, I do not see the excessive need to leave it completely clean, I would have liked to remove everything completely, but I am satisfied, we will see how it works.MicroBob wrote: ↑Wed Feb 26, 2020 9:10 pmWhen it comes to the cleaning of very delicate surfaces the cleaning medium is often less of a problem than abrasive dirt on the surface is. It gets wiped over the surface and scratches it.
For this application the half silvered mirror in its momentary state might actually be good enough as it is only used for lighting purposes. I have recently bought a (smaller) half silvered mirror from Aliexpress.
@Scarodactyl: To make sure: Did or did they not remove coatings?
Bob
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Well, if you are happy then of course the best approach is : "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Unfortunately I am the textbook example of OCD and every single bit and piece of my equipments must be shiny. Sometimes i cannot sleep at nights thinking of a piece of dust on my condenser or a bad /cold solder joint on a PCB. It's madness.
I have a feeling that your devil inside is whispering the fungus existence on the mirror in your ears, every time you look at the microscope.
Unfortunately I am the textbook example of OCD and every single bit and piece of my equipments must be shiny. Sometimes i cannot sleep at nights thinking of a piece of dust on my condenser or a bad /cold solder joint on a PCB. It's madness.
I have a feeling that your devil inside is whispering the fungus existence on the mirror in your ears, every time you look at the microscope.
Daruosh.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
I have experienced two versions of fungus:
1. One that forms a dust like layer that cleans off with no problem
2. One that has deeple etched (from acid residues of the fungi) that can't be removed as it has already damaged the glass
For me it is most important to make sure the fungus doesn't come back quickly. In case 2 a perfect repair isn't possible so I would prefer to do less damage by excessive cleaning. Generally with these half silvered mirrors the cleaning options are limited in comparison to a naked or coated glass surface.
To the result of this cleaning looks very good and I don't think that it will impact the image.
1. One that forms a dust like layer that cleans off with no problem
2. One that has deeple etched (from acid residues of the fungi) that can't be removed as it has already damaged the glass
For me it is most important to make sure the fungus doesn't come back quickly. In case 2 a perfect repair isn't possible so I would prefer to do less damage by excessive cleaning. Generally with these half silvered mirrors the cleaning options are limited in comparison to a naked or coated glass surface.
To the result of this cleaning looks very good and I don't think that it will impact the image.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
I've had good luck killing and removing lens fungus with a 50-50 solution of household ammonia and hydrogen peroxide. Note that both will already come diluted in their household and medical (maybe 3% H2O2) versions.
Don't know if they would make further inroads on the spot of fungus that seems to remain, if they'd damage the coating, or if the coating and glass has already been etched as Bob notes can often happen.
Main point - you want to be sure you kill any spores and then store the scope at low enough relative humidity that it doesn't come back.
Worst case, I'd think you could source another half mirror of an appropriate size and replace the one you have? Those are excellent objectives and you should end up with a top quality scope.
Don't know if they would make further inroads on the spot of fungus that seems to remain, if they'd damage the coating, or if the coating and glass has already been etched as Bob notes can often happen.
Main point - you want to be sure you kill any spores and then store the scope at low enough relative humidity that it doesn't come back.
Worst case, I'd think you could source another half mirror of an appropriate size and replace the one you have? Those are excellent objectives and you should end up with a top quality scope.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Well ,for the moment I think I have to finish restoring what is left, now I am concentrating on the focusing system, then I will have to clean the electrical part, the capacitor and the eyepieces are finished. And then when everything is in place I will try how everything works, if it is too poor what I observed I will repair it as I find it, especially with the issue of alignment ....Of course we've all been whispered to by that little devil, that reminds us that something is not perfect in our microscopes, but my level of disturbance has led me to commit irreparable damage that I do not want to repeat.
Thank you for your support.
I will continue to show the progress, so I have noticed this microscope has some rough finishes, I imagine that being a destined for the industry lacks direct level of sophistication.
Thank you for your support.
I will continue to show the progress, so I have noticed this microscope has some rough finishes, I imagine that being a destined for the industry lacks direct level of sophistication.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Thank you for the good advice. You always have very interesting views to share.MicroBob wrote: ↑Thu Feb 27, 2020 8:03 pmI have experienced two versions of fungus:
1. One that forms a dust like layer that cleans off with no problem
2. One that has deeple etched (from acid residues of the fungi) that can't be removed as it has already damaged the glass
For me it is most important to make sure the fungus doesn't come back quickly. In case 2 a perfect repair isn't possible so I would prefer to do less damage by excessive cleaning. Generally with these half silvered mirrors the cleaning options are limited in comparison to a naked or coated glass surface.
To the result of this cleaning looks very good and I don't think that it will impact the image.
I have enjoyed your contributions and talks with the best disposition to acquire knowledge of your experience, and attentive and always waiting for a new topic of my interest.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
[/quote]Regretfully, I did not find a manual. I visited the Mitutoyo site but they only speak of measuring devices, not microscopes. Sorry that I cannot help with that.
Hobbyst46
Cordial greetings.
Searching and searching , I could find these instructions, they are not the user's manual nor are they the same model, but they are very close, they are from the fs110
Fs110T code 378-121A
378-122A
I'm almost done putting all the parts together.
Hobbyst46
Cordial greetings.
Searching and searching , I could find these instructions, they are not the user's manual nor are they the same model, but they are very close, they are from the fs110
Fs110T code 378-121A
378-122A
I'm almost done putting all the parts together.
Re: Mitutoyo finescope fs100
Cordial greetings.
I was finally able to finish assembling the industrial microscope
Mitutoyo fs100, thanks to all of you for your suggestions, your contributions helped me a lot to renew it and leave it as good as possible. It was necessary to clean all the optical elements, reason why I had a lot of extra work, especially the head with all the prisms and the collimation afterwards, the objectives were not disassembled for obvious reasons... All the optics are acceptable, what impressed me most was the great field of vision it has, very nice and relaxing.
I wanted to ask you to help me again with your suggestions.
As I have no experience with reflected light microscopes, I have no reference to compare with.
I notice that this microscope (in reflected light) produces images that are totally lacking in contrast, flat and of very poor quality...completely washed out and cloudy. Looking for the possible fault, I notice that there is a reflection of light that bounces off the back of the lens to the eyepieces when the light enters it. I also notice that the microscope has a filter missing right at the entrance of the reflected light. The filter can be moved with a lever that turns it 180 degrees or half a turn.
Now if only an explanation were possible that would help improve this. Since by placing two external lights on each side of the sample, the contrast is excellent and the colors very saturated, helped by the planapos objectives, bet
Anyway I am very satisfied with the knowledge and experience gained first hand and by the forum of microscopists here present who share their knowledge.
Thank you.[ attachment=4]IMG_20200328_195139.jpg[/attachment]
I was finally able to finish assembling the industrial microscope
Mitutoyo fs100, thanks to all of you for your suggestions, your contributions helped me a lot to renew it and leave it as good as possible. It was necessary to clean all the optical elements, reason why I had a lot of extra work, especially the head with all the prisms and the collimation afterwards, the objectives were not disassembled for obvious reasons... All the optics are acceptable, what impressed me most was the great field of vision it has, very nice and relaxing.
I wanted to ask you to help me again with your suggestions.
As I have no experience with reflected light microscopes, I have no reference to compare with.
I notice that this microscope (in reflected light) produces images that are totally lacking in contrast, flat and of very poor quality...completely washed out and cloudy. Looking for the possible fault, I notice that there is a reflection of light that bounces off the back of the lens to the eyepieces when the light enters it. I also notice that the microscope has a filter missing right at the entrance of the reflected light. The filter can be moved with a lever that turns it 180 degrees or half a turn.
Now if only an explanation were possible that would help improve this. Since by placing two external lights on each side of the sample, the contrast is excellent and the colors very saturated, helped by the planapos objectives, bet
Anyway I am very satisfied with the knowledge and experience gained first hand and by the forum of microscopists here present who share their knowledge.
Thank you.[ attachment=4]IMG_20200328_195139.jpg[/attachment]
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