Trinocular Split?
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Trinocular Split?
Hi all
I recently started a thread about possibly getting a new scope. One that I'm looking at is the https://moticeurope.com/en/panthera-cc-trinocular.html. This series, though, has a fixed 50:50 trinocular split. I'm trying to get my head around whether this could be a deal breaker. It has illumination options of 6V/30W halogen or 3W LED. I'm thinking this effectively means only 15W/1.5W which maybe sound a bit dim. My current old Brunel has a slider allowing 100% selection of illumination for either path via a 20W halogen. Of course, I don't often use it at max brightness though, at 60x, for example, I need it fairly high. It's not clear what the effective wattage is at high, but not max, brightness - I guess it would be around 15W. So will the Panthera effective 15W/1.5W be adequate? The Panthera illumination system looks like it's modular so might be DIY upgradeable if absolutely needed, although probably only with the LED because of heat. It's not the only microscope with a 50:50 split - the Olympus CX41, CX43 also have it.
Any trinocular thoughts/experiences much appreciated.
Thanks
Louise
I recently started a thread about possibly getting a new scope. One that I'm looking at is the https://moticeurope.com/en/panthera-cc-trinocular.html. This series, though, has a fixed 50:50 trinocular split. I'm trying to get my head around whether this could be a deal breaker. It has illumination options of 6V/30W halogen or 3W LED. I'm thinking this effectively means only 15W/1.5W which maybe sound a bit dim. My current old Brunel has a slider allowing 100% selection of illumination for either path via a 20W halogen. Of course, I don't often use it at max brightness though, at 60x, for example, I need it fairly high. It's not clear what the effective wattage is at high, but not max, brightness - I guess it would be around 15W. So will the Panthera effective 15W/1.5W be adequate? The Panthera illumination system looks like it's modular so might be DIY upgradeable if absolutely needed, although probably only with the LED because of heat. It's not the only microscope with a 50:50 split - the Olympus CX41, CX43 also have it.
Any trinocular thoughts/experiences much appreciated.
Thanks
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: Trinocular Split?
Most modern systems of intelligent manufacture offer an optional 3 way head with something like a 20/80-100/0-0/100 configuration. 50/50 Is something that could put the light stress into some applications. It sounds like if you can envision limitations , that those will come. Is there no where that you can try these models out?
Re: Trinocular Split?
I used a 50/50 trinocular split for quite a long time and found it worked very well.
Liked being able to see through the eyepieces while photographing.
I would say that unless you are going to use very light intensive techniques such as high magnification Darkfield you will be fine.
Liked being able to see through the eyepieces while photographing.
I would say that unless you are going to use very light intensive techniques such as high magnification Darkfield you will be fine.
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Re: Trinocular Split?
I suppose it depends on the illumination wattage - can I ask what yours was (if you can remember!)75RR wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 11:37 amI used a 50/50 trinocular split for quite a long time and found it worked very well.
Liked being able to see through the eyepieces while photographing.
I would say that unless you are going to use very light intensive techniques such as high magnification Darkfield you will be fine.
With my old current scope I can use a mirror for illumination by a 5W LED so I know there are workarounds but I would hope not to have to with a new scope... The Euromex Oxion is a similar scope. They don't quote a split but I suspect it's also 50:50 (I've asked them - awaiting a reply).
Thanks
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: Trinocular Split?
I wish!
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: Trinocular Split?
A 60W incandescent light bulb.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 12:37 pmI suppose it depends on the illumination wattage - can I ask what yours was (if you can remember!)
By the way the microscope you linked to on your trinocular split query does not have Phase, is that still on the cards?
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Re: Trinocular Split?
Lol, 60W is a lot of watts - via a mirror?75RR wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 12:59 pmA 60W incandescent light bulb.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 12:37 pmI suppose it depends on the illumination wattage - can I ask what yours was (if you can remember!)
By the way the microscope you linked to on your trinocular split query does not have Phase, is that still on the cards?
Yeah, phase contrast, darkfield and polarization are still on the cards but maybe as accessory upgrades
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: Trinocular Split?
Do look carefully into the cost of adding it. It needs to be affordable - potential future lottery wins do not count. ;)Yeah, phase contrast, darkfield and polarization are still on the cards but maybe as accessory upgrades
External lamp houseLol, 60W is a lot of watts - via a mirror?
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Re: Trinocular Split?
It must get hot! Is there a rheostat to control intensity? There must be. I guess with a 50:50 split that's still up to 30W for each. I appreciate brightness is logarithmic though. I wonder if anyone on here has a Panthera or Oxion or similar...75RR wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 1:29 pmDo look carefully into the cost of adding it. It needs to be affordable - potential future lottery wins do not count.Yeah, phase contrast, darkfield and polarization are still on the cards but maybe as accessory upgradesExternal lamp houseLol, 60W is a lot of watts - via a mirror?
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I was thinking about getting the phase contrast fitted with the scope but I'm not sure. It's not essential to start and I might prefer to just get a better brightfield objective to start e.g. a pan fluor. But I'd want to see how the basic microscope performs first. For the Motic there are two phase options - a 5 position turret or individual sliders, plus the corresponding objectives of course. The turret comes out at about £410 so a 3-position (PH1, PH2, BF) slider is a lot cheaper at about £77. There are several options for phase objectives. Euromex do a kit of turret plus plan phase objectives at £654. So, affordable either way.
Edit: looks like Euromex also do sliders or turrets but not clear on cost of sliders - probably similar to Motic.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: Trinocular Split?
Ideally what you want is Candela output for each illumination type.
My 12v 60w illuminator reaches 6000 Candela at 12v, but at that intensity they only last 100 hours so I run max at 10v which brings it down to 3400 candela at which rate it lasts for hundreds of hours.
I have a 10w LED that reaches 8000 Candela and can run all day at that rate. Similarly halogens can and should run high, no lower than 10v for a 12v system.
Perhaps someone at Motic can give you the Candela figures.
My 12v 60w illuminator reaches 6000 Candela at 12v, but at that intensity they only last 100 hours so I run max at 10v which brings it down to 3400 candela at which rate it lasts for hundreds of hours.
I have a 10w LED that reaches 8000 Candela and can run all day at that rate. Similarly halogens can and should run high, no lower than 10v for a 12v system.
Perhaps someone at Motic can give you the Candela figures.
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Re: Trinocular Split?
Just to add that the brightness is not a function of the wattage alone. An LED is brighter than halogen by nearly an order of magnitude (for the same wattage). Plus, the distance between the lamp and other optical parts, and the specimen of course, counts as well. Plus, heat dissipation of the LED is due to the electronics involved, whereas heat dissipation from a halogen lamp is due to the heat emitted by the bulb itself as radiation.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 2:25 pm...It must get hot! Is there a rheostat to control intensity? There must be. I guess with a 50:50 split that's still up to 30W for each.
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Re: Trinocular Split?
Yeah, I know that! I also know how bright my current 20W internal scope halogen gets vs an external 5W LED (much brighter!). What I don't know for sure is whether a 50% split 30W halogen or 50% split 3W LED will be bright enough. I'm probably fussing over nothing since I would presume (dangerous, I know) that Motic wouldn't sell a scope that was inadequately illuminated. Well, I'd like to think they wouldn't...Hobbyst46 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 2:51 pmJust to add that the brightness is not a function of the wattage alone. An LED is brighter than halogen by nearly an order of magnitude (for the same wattage). Plus, the distance between the lamp and other optical parts, and the specimen of course, counts as well. Plus, heat dissipation of the LED is due to the electronics involved, whereas heat dissipation from a halogen lamp is due to the heat emitted by the bulb itself as radiation.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 2:25 pm...It must get hot! Is there a rheostat to control intensity? There must be. I guess with a 50:50 split that's still up to 30W for each.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: Trinocular Split?
It's doubtful they would have that information - if asked, I expect they would say either illumination source option is bright enough.75RR wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 2:46 pmIdeally what you want is Candela output for each illumination type.
My 12v 60w illuminator reaches 6000 Candela at 12v, but at that intensity they only last 100 hours so I run max at 10v which brings it down to 3400 candela at which rate it lasts for hundreds of hours.
I have a 10w LED that reaches 8000 Candela and can run all day at that rate. Similarly halogens can and should run high, no lower than 10v for a 12v system.
Perhaps someone at Motic can give you the Candela figures.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: Trinocular Split?
Motic is I believe a manufacturer as opposed to some companies that are resellers. So someone there should know.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 3:29 pmIt's doubtful they would have that information - if asked, I expect they would say either illumination source option is bright enough.75RR wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 2:46 pmIdeally what you want is Candela output for each illumination type.
My 12v 60w illuminator reaches 6000 Candela at 12v, but at that intensity they only last 100 hours so I run max at 10v which brings it down to 3400 candela at which rate it lasts for hundreds of hours.
I have a 10w LED that reaches 8000 Candela and can run all day at that rate. Similarly halogens can and should run high, no lower than 10v for a 12v system.
Perhaps someone at Motic can give you the Candela figures.
Louise
A salesperson most probably would not, but I am sure they could find out.
You are about to potentially spend £2000 with them - tell them to pull their finger out!
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Re: Trinocular Split?
Probably only about £1400 to start ha ha. I think they'll get fed up with me keep asking questions though it's their fault for not providing enough info in the first place. I just heard back from Euromex via Pepler Optics (UK retailer) (quick response) and they tell me that the Oxion has an 80-20 split (EP vs camera port). They kindly attached an Oxion data sheet. Not much use - nowhere on the sheet does it mention the split!75RR wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 3:35 pmMotic is I believe a manufacturer as opposed to some companies that are resellers. So someone there should know.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 3:29 pmIt's doubtful they would have that information - if asked, I expect they would say either illumination source option is bright enough.75RR wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 2:46 pmIdeally what you want is Candela output for each illumination type.
My 12v 60w illuminator reaches 6000 Candela at 12v, but at that intensity they only last 100 hours so I run max at 10v which brings it down to 3400 candela at which rate it lasts for hundreds of hours.
I have a 10w LED that reaches 8000 Candela and can run all day at that rate. Similarly halogens can and should run high, no lower than 10v for a 12v system.
Perhaps someone at Motic can give you the Candela figures.
Louise
A salesperson most probably would not, but I am sure they could find out.
You are about to potentially spend £2000 with them - tell them to pull their finger out!
It's all an uphill struggle to get data off these people. I suppose from their perspective the models I'm interested in are still counted as 'budget' ones.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: Trinocular Split?
An 80-20 split would probably be 80 to the camera. The Motic literature for other models is more explicit in the description; "light split (100:0/20:80)", indicating 100% to eyepieces switchable to 20% to eyepieces.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 3:46 pmProbably only about £1400 to start ha ha. I think they'll get fed up with me keep asking questions though it's their fault for not providing enough info in the first place. I just heard back from Euromex via Pepler Optics (UK retailer) (quick response) and they tell me that the Oxion has an 80-20 split (EP vs camera port). They kindly attached an Oxion data sheet. Not much use - nowhere on the sheet does it mention the split!
It's all an uphill struggle to get data off these people. I suppose from their perspective the models I'm interested in are still counted as 'budget' ones.
Louise
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Re: Trinocular Split?
This is for the Euromex Oxion, the retailer said "The light split between eyepieces and photo-port is 80/20% respectively."Zuul wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 4:49 pmAn 80-20 split would probably be 80 to the camera. The Motic literature for other models is more explicit in the description; "light split (100:0/20:80)", indicating 100% to eyepieces switchable to 20% to eyepieces.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 3:46 pmProbably only about £1400 to start ha ha. I think they'll get fed up with me keep asking questions though it's their fault for not providing enough info in the first place. I just heard back from Euromex via Pepler Optics (UK retailer) (quick response) and they tell me that the Oxion has an 80-20 split (EP vs camera port). They kindly attached an Oxion data sheet. Not much use - nowhere on the sheet does it mention the split!
It's all an uphill struggle to get data off these people. I suppose from their perspective the models I'm interested in are still counted as 'budget' ones.
Louise
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: Trinocular Split?
Aren't you concerned about buying a microscope from a company that doesn't know or you have to pull the information out with a winch? If they are this incompetent before they have your money , what will they be like after they have it.
Re: Trinocular Split?
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Looking at the oxion images from their site (see linked images below) I can not see a lever that would activate a split, which leaves us with a 50/50
https://www.euromex.com/en/products/pro ... pes/oxion/
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Looking at the oxion images from their site (see linked images below) I can not see a lever that would activate a split, which leaves us with a 50/50
https://www.euromex.com/en/products/pro ... pes/oxion/
.
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Re: Trinocular Split?
Well I wouldn't call them incompetent - perhaps just not as initially transparent as I'd like. However, both Motic and Euromex / Pepler Optics have responded to my questions.apochronaut wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 5:20 pmAren't you concerned about buying a microscope from a company that doesn't know or you have to pull the information out with a winch? If they are this incompetent before they have your money , what will they be like after they have it.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: Trinocular Split?
The only one that does is part of the dual viewing head (see linked image below) not sure if you can request it or if it will even fit.
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Re: Trinocular Split?
The Oxion, they say, is 80:20 as I mentioned above. I suppose, with a camera, you can just do a longer exposure. The Motic is 50:50.75RR wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 5:28 pm.
Looking at the oxion images from their site (see linked images below) I can not see a lever that would activate a split, which leaves us with a 50/50
https://www.euromex.com/en/products/pro ... pes/oxion/
.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: Trinocular Split?
I do not think there is such a thing as a 80:20 on its own.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 5:33 pmThe Oxion, they say, is 80:20 as I mentioned above. I suppose, with a camera, you can just do a longer exposure. The Motic is 50:50.
When you have it (by the way it is 80 camera and 20 eyepieces) you also have the option 100 eyepieces and 0 camera.
If there is no lever to change the ratio then it has to be a 50:50
The person you talked to would assume that you would know what 80:20 meant.
Note: Just realized that in the 2 images above, both show the right side of the microscope. I suppose it is possible for there to be a lever on the left side.
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Re: Trinocular Split?
I'll double check with them tomorrow75RR wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 5:43 pmI do not think there is such a thing as a 80:20 on its own.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 5:33 pmThe Oxion, they say, is 80:20 as I mentioned above. I suppose, with a camera, you can just do a longer exposure. The Motic is 50:50.
When you have it (by the way it is 80 camera and 20 eyepieces) you also have the option 100 eyepieces and 0 camera.
If there is no lever to change the ratio then it has to be a 50:50
The person you talked to would assume that you would know what 80:20 meant.
Note: Just realized that in the 2 images above, both show the right side of the microscope. I suppose it is possible for there to be a lever on the left side.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: Trinocular Split?
If you can ask for a photo that shows the Oxion trinocular head with the prism lever.
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Re: Trinocular Split?
This is a Ningbo Haishu Honyu Opto-Electro Co. Ltd. CPD.03.30ET. They sell in China as a Honyu CPD.03.30ET. Slightly modified versions of the stand show up as many brands , including Leica, maybe the Primostar too, although it might be Jiangsu Victor.They also make the Nikon 100 and 200.
The head has a beamsplitter 80:20, not a moving prism.
Many Chinese factories will sell 1 unit minimums.
Interestingly, Ningbo Tianyu Optoelectro Co. sells a dedicated dark field version of the above for $260.00 f.o.b., shipped from Zhejiang, not Ningbo. I suppose it would be quite cheap to pick up a BF condenser as well. Minimum 1. oh, it has purple accents, not blue.https://www.made-in-china.com/products- ... scope.html
The head has a beamsplitter 80:20, not a moving prism.
Many Chinese factories will sell 1 unit minimums.
Interestingly, Ningbo Tianyu Optoelectro Co. sells a dedicated dark field version of the above for $260.00 f.o.b., shipped from Zhejiang, not Ningbo. I suppose it would be quite cheap to pick up a BF condenser as well. Minimum 1. oh, it has purple accents, not blue.https://www.made-in-china.com/products- ... scope.html
Re: Trinocular Split?
Sadly could not find the purple accents version via your link.apochronaut wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 11:10 pmThis is a Ningbo Haishu Honyu Opto-Electro Co. Ltd. CPD.03.30ET. They sell in China as a Honyu CPD.03.30ET. Slightly modified versions of the stand show up as many brands , including Leica, maybe the Primostar too, although it might be Jiangsu Victor.They also make the Nikon 100 and 200.
The head has a beamsplitter 80:20, not a moving prism.
Many Chinese factories will sell 1 unit minimums.
Interestingly, Ningbo Tianyu Optoelectro Co. sells a dedicated dark field version of the above for $260.00 f.o.b., shipped from Zhejiang, not Ningbo. I suppose it would be quite cheap to pick up a BF condenser as well. Minimum 1. oh, it has purple accents, not blue.https://www.made-in-china.com/products- ... scope.html
Did however find the blue accented one via your link or should I say a version of it under the model number EX 30 for a medical products company called iclear
https://iclear-mic.en.made-in-china.com ... scope.html
It says their version at least has a 50/50 split ... but who knows how many versions there are.
A visit to the honyu web page showed the microscope under the designation CPD.03.30ET but did not mention the tube split
http://www.ningbomicroscope.com/ensite/ ... s_965.html
Then again we all knew that Euromex was just another reseller badging chinese microscopes.
The question is, is the warranty worth the markup?
Perhaps as suggested you can get the basic version here and order the Phase kit direct from china.
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Re: Trinocular Split?
Hi Louise,
I would like to add a practical view point:
- When you chase plancton animals you don't have the time to switch between observation tube and camera. Here a beam splitter is really nice. With todays sensitive sensors a 50/50 split is more useful that the film era 80 (camera) / 20 (observation) split
- When the image is dim due to the used contrast technique (like epi fluorescence) and the room is brightly lit light from the eyepieces can deteriorate the image the camera records. Here a 100/0 setting would help, or one has to cover the eyepieces (black microscopist cap )
Bob
I would like to add a practical view point:
- When you chase plancton animals you don't have the time to switch between observation tube and camera. Here a beam splitter is really nice. With todays sensitive sensors a 50/50 split is more useful that the film era 80 (camera) / 20 (observation) split
- When the image is dim due to the used contrast technique (like epi fluorescence) and the room is brightly lit light from the eyepieces can deteriorate the image the camera records. Here a 100/0 setting would help, or one has to cover the eyepieces (black microscopist cap )
Bob
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Re: Trinocular Split?
Hi BobMicroBob wrote: ↑Tue Jul 14, 2020 8:52 amHi Louise,
I would like to add a practical view point:
- When you chase plancton animals you don't have the time to switch between observation tube and camera. Here a beam splitter is really nice. With todays sensitive sensors a 50/50 split is more useful that the film era 80 (camera) / 20 (observation) split
- When the image is dim due to the used contrast technique (like epi fluorescence) and the room is brightly lit light from the eyepieces can deteriorate the image the camera records. Here a 100/0 setting would help, or one has to cover the eyepieces (black microscopist cap )
Bob
Once I've got roughly set up I would normally just use the camera anyway. In some respects I find it easier to look at a big screen, and my aim is to take images.
Thanks
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: Trinocular Split?
There are scarcely any long-term comprehensive user reviews about the quality of "stencil" microscopes, at least on this forum.
In contrast, there have been (in 2019 or 2018) positive reviews of the customer service of Bresser microscopes on this forum. Especially about fitting the camera onto the microscope. They offer microscopes, dark field, phase contrast and cameras. I would consult the owners of such scopes (I think they are in the UK as well).