MicrobeHunter.com Microscopy Forum

Dudes are useless with the fine motor skills. I mean, they'll do it once, brag about it, then move on to the next thing. But no way they'll do it over and over again, correctly, and quickly, day in and day out. I agree with this guy 100% Ha, I've done it once, and talked about it many times... :oops:

Macro_cosmos has posted a couple of nice videos showing different illumination settings with the Heine:

https://youtu.be/_tecNY-yJNY

https://youtu.be/zRAHPIoL7tI

Thank you Viktor for interesting pictures This plan achromat 1.3x objective has a much larger WD than the one I've tried (Olympus plan 1x) .... Therefore it allows place for episcopic light Your ping pong ball diffuser is very efficient :-) Glad you found it useful. I raised it in the picture to sh...

As I recently picked up an Olympus short-barrel plan achromat 1.3x NA 0.03 objective, I thought it was interesting to take a couple of shots for comparison. It looks like this: https://i.imgur.com/bBwHbkE.png Images are taken on My Vanox AH using a Canon 5DmarkII Full frame camera and a matching FK ...

Somewhat counterintuitively, low NA low magnification objectives have a greater depth of field at the subject plane, but a shallower depth of focus at the image plane. High-NA objectives are the reverse, with razor thin depth of field at the subject, and a very great depth of focus at the image side...

From what I've gleaned, most Nikon DSLR bodies don't have a true silent mode (EFSC or full electronic shutter). The ones I know that has this feature are their higher end full frame bodies. That's the main reason why so many have favored Canon DSLRs for photomicrography and photomacrography, where s...

Looking really good!

Thanks for sharing, the 1x looks horrible. But, to be fair...isn't the microscope objective corrected for transmitted light, and the macro for reflected, which is what this subject is ? Can't see how that would matter in this case. At such low NA, presence or absence of cover slip doesn't matter. L...

Thanks for sharing, the 1x looks horrible.

PeteM wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 22, 2022 5:30 am

Sad that MicrobeHunter has become a honey pot for spammers. And who imagines that's a good way to spend their life / earn a living?

Yeah, it's really starting to reduce my interest in the forum, unfortunately.

If you are seriously interested in microscopy and photomicrography, but has limited funding, I'd much rather spend my money on a 160mm Zeiss microscope, as these can reasonably affordably be equipped with a trinocular head, DIC, and fluorite/planapo objectives. With some careful shopping, you really...

GerryR wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 06, 2022 10:41 am

haileynelson10 wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 06, 2022 9:25 am

Parfocalling is exactly what you have explained. Some people sometimes are still wrong about it.

Please clarify; who explained it properly and what do people get wrong about it? Much appreciated. Thanks.

It's a spam bot.

I'd be very sceptical of buying something like this from a new member with three comments, all trying to sell hard-to-find items.

Seems very unlikely that someone would have a spare Zeiss Axiomat 50x PlanApo, a 30mm phase telescope, and a Russian MBC-10 camera attachment...

I'd be very sceptical of buying something like this from a new member with three comments, all trying to sell hard-to-find items.

Seems very unlikely that someone would have a spare Zeiss Axiomat 50x PlanApo, a 30mm phase telescope, and a Russian MBC-10 camera attachment...

I'd be very sceptical of buying something like this from a new member with three comments, all trying to sell hard-to-find items.

Seems very unlikely that someone would have a spare Zeiss Axiomat 50x PlanApo, a 30mm phase telescope, and a Russian MBC-10 camera attachment...

On my Canon 5D mark II, I usually take a photo of a blank slide after setting up Kohler in brightfield, and then use the photo to set a custom white balance profile. I find it very easy and reliable.

On one objective, I had a really stubborn layer of dried up immersion oil. It literally took a hundred q-tips with various solvents before I got everything off. And it took quite many attempts before I started to be able to get it loosened up. So it's worth trying a bit more with different solvents ...

Chironomidae eggs would be my guess.

Well, I was wrong! That's a very impressive spectrum for a single emitter. Would be interesting to know what model it is. I agree that the light flux per chip could be a problem, though. But very cool to see such a high quality spectrum on a cheap consumer led product. Is your plan to desolder the c...

Nice spectrum, but certainly that spectrum is not produced by a single die, or even a single COB led. It is probably produced by a combination of many different LED dies. For microscopy, we need a single die, or a fairly small COB led. The Yuji and Optosolis COB leds are the closest thing that I've ...

Looks good!

To me, the U-shaped wrap around solution seems like the only viable option: https://i.imgur.com/gYfWw3r.jpg If I were you, I'd draw it up in Fusion 360 and 3D print it. If that doesn't turn out sufficiently rigid and properly aligned, it would probably need to be machined on a mill. But I think the ...

Professional led systems use as complete a combination of spectral lines as is possible in order to attempt to cover the similar but more gradual transition across spectra that filament lamps provide in order to produce as contrasty and high resolution imaging as is possible. The LEDs in the profes...

Specific brand in mind? Fluorites almost always have higher NA than corresponding achromats. And will be labeled FL, Fl, Fluor, Fluotar, Fluar or something like that. Though some brands made a class of better corrected achromats that have slightly higher NAs and likely had at least some low dispersi...

Might be tricky. Even if you are mechanically able to attach the Olympus intermediate piece to the stand, you are likely going to change the prism-to-objective distance, which can be pretty bad for DIC. But then again, if you are going to use it with mismatched Nikon objectives, there's a slight cha...

I normally begin with Zeiss lens cleaner, and finish with isopropyl alcohol. I believe that's what I did. Getting the prisms perfectly clean from edge to edge takes a little patience.

http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/art ... sbino.html


This article should give you the information you need. It helped me when I had to clean a foggy M20 binocular head.

Another option is to print a bunch of concentric rings of known dimension on transparent paper and put it where it is supposed to go, then look at it with a phase telescope to see which size is right.

Impressive results, Jonathan, both the diatom and resolution target. As you know, I've been following this project with great intrest and admiration. Noticed that you are using a 0.85 condenser. I assume that high-NA quartz condensers are few and far between. Have you though about using a high-NA UV...

I found this prism. Is it the one you use? Yep, those are the ones I have. Remaining questions: 1. Condenser dovetail 2、SPLAN LB..... Thank you very much. 1. You will need to DIY a dovetail like the one on PeteM's condenser. 2. Can't say how they'll work, I don't have access to any SPlans, unfortun...