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Would this help?

Yes, this is exactly the same.

Yes, as far as it looks like mine.

In case you destroy it, I have an extra 90x objective which I can send to you. It moves freely, as you have seen the pictures. I haven't check the optical condition though...

Sorry, this is only because I didn't know how to put picture attachments into PM. Don't try this at home unless the situation is absolutely desperate. No guarantee, no responsibility from my side :) . 1. Remove the back cap and spring. Use some tool fitting properly to the slots, press to hold the t...

Thanks! It was junk for me anyway. However, very rare spare part indeed and very difficult or impossible to find. That is the Achilles heel of that scope. The other irritating plastic part is the gear slide in the x-moving mechanism of the objective stage (not in your scope). This is annoying as the...

And you did remove the spring already?

A drop or two WD40, let it penetrate some time and then apply force to the objective head around the front lens (edge no. 1).

2

Sorry, CRC-56. Practically the same as WD40. The idea, of course, is to use it so little that it will not penetrate into the lens system. This should be possible if you work carefully.

I have used WD40 (CRC45), but just a small drop. You could first spary it into some cup and then rise a drop with a toothpick.

I think the spring action is very usefull as you will easily touch the slide anyway.

Here is an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/313575222672?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item49028a2d90:g:oSIAAOSwe9tg0a2F&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSB0Xm7k0guzAysaIMfJcbBOmOkMqF1tPtLLIAP3YeeRSmzG5FUHzf%252Bsq4EkkEHWxbCOfL7lM8LS1h4%252Bf85yCvJsNEXkTenHzop7%252Fungu...

Dismantling and cleaning the 90x objective is very easy and straightforward. It only takes a minute or two. The structure of 40x objective is the same. Just unscrew the cover cylinder. If it is tight, use e.g. rubber sheet around. Unscrew the upper top cap with a pair of slots. You may use a specifi...

Hi Tom

Welcome. Your introduction was fascinating and I feel we have much in common. I haven't use refractometer since early 90,s in the organic chemistry class where we have to synthesize some compounds and try to get them pure enough Maybe it was Zeiss. And I love DIY.

Ok, all the student kits I have obtained and refurbished had both 40x and 90x objectives with springs. By the way, it is very useful to have spring-loaded 90x objective as, according to my experience, the parfoaclity with those Lomo objectives is not so good. It needs some training to change from 40...

20x doesn't have a spring, 90x has a spring and obviously jammed.

I don't think it is a problem as Biolam operates in the middle part of the slide. I have to correct this. I looked my Biolam more closely and the condensed knob axle orientation is more or less on the top part of the gear slide (when the condenser is in it's highest position). However, my gear slid...

I am happy to hear you are doing well with your Biolam. I think the condenser gear slide is the same. See picture and notice that there is a crack in the other head. The screw has caused a tension which has broke the plastic. This is a common phenomenon. Also the screws tend to loose during time and...

You are right with the top position. However, If you would like to have your Lomo perfect, I have a big Lomo research microscope which I will junk anyway. There is also a plastic gear rack. I could dismantle it and see if it is compatible. What do you think?

I warned you... So you lost some gear tooth? How badly? There are places where there should be high-viscous grease e.g. the coarse focus dovetail surfaces. The coarse focus should be tight rather than loose. Light oil is used e.g. in diaphragms. However, when refurbishing my Olympus FH microscope I ...

Maybe is better to remove the coarse focus knobs and axle first This may be difficult as the axle slides away to one direction only as far as I can remember (when knobs removed). I cant say which way in your microscope. The Biolams I have refurbished have been older models with different type of co...

These might help
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/art ... mbly-E.pdf
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... lamps.html
https://blog.lidskialf.net/2020/08/18/r ... icroscope/

The idea is to first soften the hardened grease using WD40 and perhaps by gentle warming. WD40 will penetrate into the dovetail surfaces when applied from top and/or side. Taking the arm apart (sliding) is more easy if you have it fixed into the base. From the pictures I see you have taken it apart....

I have also used WD40 or similar product. It is possible to get only a drop or two by pressing very gently. It needs some practice though. However, you may need to dissolve the old grease by dipping the mechanical parts into petroleum anyway. That means you need to take everything apart. Do not use ...

How important is it to get the right grease? Unfortunately I am not an expert in this. Your grease might be just fine. There were some discussions about this subject in this forum. You may find them if you search. It was maybe 30 years ago when I got my first real microscope. It was a university su...

Have a look at this thread https://www.microbehunter.com/microscopy-forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9121&p=80556#p80556 and see the picture showing the Biolam focusing system dismantled. After cleaning and relubrication, make sure the pin lifting the coarse focus block stands exactly upright so that it wi...

I was hesitating between the 20x or a 60x dry.

I have a 60x dry objective. The image is really very bad. I don't know if it is somehow damaged or are the all 60x Lomo objectives the same.

Sorry, I don't have an extra 20x. I have one 20x Apo which I will keep in my set. It is of high quality.

I agree. Why not buy Lomo objectives for Lomo microscope? They are not so expensive in Ebay.

I may have some Lomo stuff I don't need, however don't remember if there was 20x objective. Do you have 90x immersion objective?

Is your model C1 monocular or binocular head?

Where are you located?

You are warmly wellcome! The following is what cought my attention I am so, so bored (and simultaneously extremely stressed) at work. May I ask if this is because you made interesting research earlier but now have to do some routine work without a deep interest and passion? Is this also the thing th...

I have no experience with this microscope. However, with my fluorometer using filters and similar rings I just pushed the filter from the opposite site and it came off with the ring. With a jammed ring I lifted it up using a flat screw driver placing it into its break positon. Of course all depends ...

According to the picture the cables seem to come directly from the transformer as far as I can see. The current is not rectified, is AC and so the polarity does not matter. However, you can always check this with a multimeter. There seems to be a round-shape component on the bottom of the case with ...