Hi y'all, Im looking to up the power on a polarizing unit that has a 6v 20watt halogen. In an attempt to stay as lazy as possible I've been considering one of the bulbs you see on the pictures, my question is,... Will it work? Specially dimming it, and will I see an increase on the intensity compared to the halogen bulb?
The reason im Considering this route is because there's not a lot of room inside the base to put a heatsink etc.
Would it work or just catch on fire?
Would it work or just catch on fire?
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Re: Would it work or just catch on fire?
these are not good microscope LED dies. You want a single LED die. All the calculations are from a point source approximately the size of a filament i.e. a single small LED.
1942 Bausch and Lomb Series T Dynoptic, Custom Illumination
Re: Would it work or just catch on fire?
It is also worth mentioning that some mineralogists mention "wrong" interference colours with led lighting on polarizing microscope.
Gear list:
CZJ NfPk and Polmi A w/ 45mm apo objectives, Phv, Epi Pol, trinocular
Gamma Hungary 3D-condenser
LOMO ОИ-28 Fluorescence Attachment
Set of Leitz Photar macro lens
Nikon D500 DSLR
LOMO МС-2 microtome
CZJ NfPk and Polmi A w/ 45mm apo objectives, Phv, Epi Pol, trinocular
Gamma Hungary 3D-condenser
LOMO ОИ-28 Fluorescence Attachment
Set of Leitz Photar macro lens
Nikon D500 DSLR
LOMO МС-2 microtome
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Re: Would it work or just catch on fire?
Generally speaking you need an approximately 3 to 4V/1A DC variable constant current supply for single high power LED's. A single 3W LED is pretty bright. Getting the same colour rendition as a halogen bulb can be tricky but a 'warm white' LED is usually reasonable.Plasmid wrote: ↑Sat Jul 24, 2021 11:43 pmHi y'all, Im looking to up the power on a polarizing unit that has a 6v 20watt halogen. In an attempt to stay as lazy as possible I've been considering one of the bulbs you see on the pictures, my question is,... Will it work? Specially dimming it, and will I see an increase on the intensity compared to the halogen bulb?
The reason im Considering this route is because there's not a lot of room inside the base to put a heatsink etc.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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- Posts: 1546
- Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2020 1:29 am
- Location: Georgia, USA
Re: Would it work or just catch on fire?
I would go ahead and go 10 watt as long as you are going to bother. There are some very high CRI dies out there, all still with something of a spike in the high frequencies but much smoother than previous generations. You may be able to solder some leads into a star led that the halogen plug with the led reasonably close to where the filament would have been. You will need.to have low voltage DC power (not terribly important what the voltage is) and a constant current driver. The Buck puck previously mentioned would do a good job and can have dimming.
1942 Bausch and Lomb Series T Dynoptic, Custom Illumination