Would it work or just catch on fire?

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Plasmid
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Would it work or just catch on fire?

#1 Post by Plasmid » Sat Jul 24, 2021 11:43 pm

Hi y'all, Im looking to up the power on a polarizing unit that has a 6v 20watt halogen. In an attempt to stay as lazy as possible I've been considering one of the bulbs you see on the pictures, my question is,... Will it work? Specially dimming it, and will I see an increase on the intensity compared to the halogen bulb?
The reason im Considering this route is because there's not a lot of room inside the base to put a heatsink etc.
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BramHuntingNematodes
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Re: Would it work or just catch on fire?

#2 Post by BramHuntingNematodes » Sun Jul 25, 2021 12:32 am

these are not good microscope LED dies. You want a single LED die. All the calculations are from a point source approximately the size of a filament i.e. a single small LED.
1942 Bausch and Lomb Series T Dynoptic, Custom Illumination

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Dmi3n
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Re: Would it work or just catch on fire?

#3 Post by Dmi3n » Sun Jul 25, 2021 7:06 am

It is also worth mentioning that some mineralogists mention "wrong" interference colours with led lighting on polarizing microscope.
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LouiseScot
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Re: Would it work or just catch on fire?

#4 Post by LouiseScot » Sun Jul 25, 2021 4:22 pm

Plasmid wrote:
Sat Jul 24, 2021 11:43 pm
Hi y'all, Im looking to up the power on a polarizing unit that has a 6v 20watt halogen. In an attempt to stay as lazy as possible I've been considering one of the bulbs you see on the pictures, my question is,... Will it work? Specially dimming it, and will I see an increase on the intensity compared to the halogen bulb?
The reason im Considering this route is because there's not a lot of room inside the base to put a heatsink etc.
Generally speaking you need an approximately 3 to 4V/1A DC variable constant current supply for single high power LED's. A single 3W LED is pretty bright. Getting the same colour rendition as a halogen bulb can be tricky but a 'warm white' LED is usually reasonable.

Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo

BramHuntingNematodes
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Re: Would it work or just catch on fire?

#5 Post by BramHuntingNematodes » Sun Jul 25, 2021 4:53 pm

I would go ahead and go 10 watt as long as you are going to bother. There are some very high CRI dies out there, all still with something of a spike in the high frequencies but much smoother than previous generations. You may be able to solder some leads into a star led that the halogen plug with the led reasonably close to where the filament would have been. You will need.to have low voltage DC power (not terribly important what the voltage is) and a constant current driver. The Buck puck previously mentioned would do a good job and can have dimming.
1942 Bausch and Lomb Series T Dynoptic, Custom Illumination

Dubious
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Re: Would it work or just catch on fire?

#6 Post by Dubious » Sun Jul 25, 2021 8:12 pm

This place sells leds, drivers, heat sinks, as well as 5w and 10w kits:

https://www.ledsupply.com/

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