Frankenstar IV

[Plasmid]

The bearing pads would be the Laborlux frame tabs in its female connector.

I just sold off my PLA printer. But someone in these forums was offering to print microscope parts. I can send you some files if you want. Maybe that other poster would print something to test with.

That would be awesome, I can probably find a local 3D printing business to print the files....I also purchased a Diastar that came with a CAS200 metal box that could " "probably " be modified or at least partially used , that being lens, etc

[Plasmid]

Frankenstar 420

I wonder how lab tables had to be reinforced back in the 80's due to the wight of this set up?!!

[Dubious]

Have lab microscopes become that much lighter in weight since the 80s? I think the tables have always tended toward the massive, not just to bear the weight but also to dampen vibration.

[apochronaut]

Actually, weight is an advantage when it comes to high resolution microscopy. The first binocular research microscopes were in the 20 + lb. range and increased from there . I think a Spencer 5 , which was a stsndard format horseshoe base 4 objective research scope weighed in around 25 lbs. Any decent scope attempting to provide a stable image to a coupled photo system needs some weight to overcome possible vibration issues. The Diastar is neither too heavy nor too light.
I find it a perfect stand for many microscopy systems. Even the 100 watt lamp house is decently compact and cool enough to do just about anything you want.
The Spencer 5 , mounted on a 100 watt Ortho-Illuminator is physically slightly larger , so I would say microscopes have not necessarily gotten larger but some like various all encompassing beasts like a Photomi or a Univar or various other universal type stands are truly over the top but their results to some degree justify that.
The nice thing about a Diaster is that now, 35 years after it's first introduction, diligent shopping can put one in your hands for less than 500.00 and it can still be close to state of the art optically, certainly usually with a little more cash added to bag some planfluor or planapo optics.

[Scarodactyl]

Thr Nikon e800 came with threaded rods you could bolt on so two people would have handles to carry it together.

[Plasmid]

Finally got a power supply, everything together (CAS not included) comes in at 47ish lbs., Im still skittish about the table I'm utilizing as a workbench as Im pretty sure was not designed to handle that weight... (Along with the Laborlux and a Stereo )

Next up, Ill have to find a decently priced 75w XBO or 100w HBO bulb, but they tend to be quite expensive, any recommendations as far as retailers!?
Also if anyone could point me towards a DIC condenser and prism I would greatly appreciate it (wishful thinking)

[Plasmid]

Thr Nikon e800 came with threaded rods you could bolt on so two people would have handles to carry it together.

Had to look it up, that is one beefy microscope

[Plasmid]

Have lab microscopes become that much lighter in weight since the 80s? I think the tables have always tended toward the massive, not just to bear the weight but also to dampen vibration.

Speaking from almost no experience whatsoever... I have notice the integration of what looks to be composites and or plastics in some of the brands , when compared to the metal alloys from the 70s and 80s., Specially the use of LEDs eliminating the need for those heavy power supplies.

Are all metal tables preferred over wooden ones when it comes to vibration dampening?

[Plasmid]

I've been working on a photo tube for the Diastar/Microstar trino head. I've seen a couple of 3D printed options but since I don't have a printer, I decided to go with a metal option of photo/astronomy components that are readily available on Amazon.
Still on the testing phase, but it can be used both afocal and projection; as of now im using a 30mm eyepiece as intermediate optics, but a Cat#145 can also be used as long as a sleeve is placed to compensate for the diameter. The distance of the Eyepiece can be adjusted as to make it parfocal with the binocular Eyepieces. The only thing missing is a 37mm to M42 adapter so I can securely mount the 35mm lens on the mirror less camera, the same can be adapted to a 50mm lens with a 49mm to m42 adapter. The hilicoid adapter allows for perfect distance between the intermediate optics and the camera lens and or sensor. The dovetail attachment is an NEX to M42 adapter with tapped holes and 3 srews that allow for proper alignment. RAF camera sells a 40mm clamp to M42 adapter that will also work.

[apochronaut]

Which 30mm eyepiece did you use?

[Plasmid]

Which 30mm eyepiece did you use?

Plan 10X 20WF from a no name Chinese seller, a 30.5 mm sleeve can be adapted to any 20mm as long as the overall diameter of the objective does not exceed 40mm at its widest point. Im still waiting for that final adapter so I can check for CA with various Eyepieces.... It'll never be perfect since Im combining objectives, but it'll definitely be a lot more convenient not having to set up the camera in front of the binoculars.

[Plasmid]

This no name condenser works great with the Diastar, It allows me to rotate the Lambda plate and polarizer individually, Pol and Ana (red) Lambda (blue). The Threaded bottom if the condenser also allows for PH rings to be inserted.... Although a pain in the butt having to change it along with each objective. The other wheel type PH condenser that fits also has a threaded bottom that allows for the lambda plate to be interested., But the NA is noticeably smaller ( not sure # ).
Ideally I'll need another Diastar turret to swap on the fly the PH objectives, I noticed that the PH objectives do not offer a great polarization or oblique effect, not sure how much the annuli play a role in this..!?!!

[Plasmid]

[Plasmid]

Franken phototube works !!!! Im using a cat 191 eyepiece for projection.
https://youtube.com/shorts/sZaNwgevUCU?feature=share

[Plasmid]

Photo tube completed, as it sits the Frankenstar is only missing DIC.
Im waiting for a couple of LED components to try at 395 and 460nm Epi. I recently purchased a 100W HBo bulb, but im getting no ignition, the power supply is putting out current, so Im guessing its the bulb.

The photo tube has a 10X 20mm eyepiece, and the binocular a pair of CAT #191, the helicoid allows to set up matching parfocality in between the two. The cat 181 that I had originally plan to use for projection was causing a bit of lens flare... Not sure why!

Looking for advise on mixing PH with FL, I saw a brief article tutorial on the Olympus page but does not go into detail.

https://www.olympus-lifescience.com/en/ ... uorophase/

[zzffnn]

Great work! Do you think the base scope has transmitted DIC option as stock, or are you planning to do another Frankenstein mode

[Plasmid]

Great work! Do you think the base scope has transmitted DIC option as stock, or are you planning to do another Frankenstein mode

Indeed it does, from my understanding one of the best ...the condenser and turret are very difficult to come by, I'm currently formulating a plan to sell my wife on the idea of purchasing this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAS-Reichert-D ... 632-2357-0

[Scarodactyl]

I'm currently formulating a plan to sell my wife

Oh no!

on the idea of purchasing this one

Oh, OK.

[apochronaut]

There are a few wives lately that come with DIC too.

[Plasmid]

walked right into that one didn't I!

[Plasmid]

UV addition to the Frankenstar
395nm
10W LED

Which excitation, dichroic mirror and emission filter combo do I need for this wavelength?
I have a spare cube that only has a mirror , so Im thinking of getting some cheap chroma filters and adding it to the cube

[viktor j nilsson]

It depends a little on whether you want to use as much of the LED output as possible for excitation, or if you want to filter out the visible light and focus on wavelengths shorter than 400nm. If you do autofluorescence, shorter wavelengths are definitely better, and a 365nm LED would be much better than a 395nm one. So if you still can, you might want to rethink the LED choice before you spend a lot on filters.

Anyway. Looking at some spectrums, your 395nm led will likely give off quite a lot of light up to around 420nm. So if you want to use most of the peak, you might want use a 420nm DM, and a 430nm EM filter. Or maybe 430DM/440EM. With a LED, some get away without an EX filter. But a cheap ZWB3 filter (or the Schott equivalent) filter would probably clean up the tail a bit.

Alternatively, if you want to focus on the UV part below 400nm, but lose some power, you could use a cheap ZWB2 excitation filter to cut off wavelengths below 400nm or so, and then use a 410nm DM and 420nm EM filter. Or maybe 420DM/430EM.

Nikons popular UV2A cube for 365nm UV light has a 400nm DM and 410nm EM filter. This 10nm separation is supposed to give a nice dark background. I think this is a good starting point for choosing your own filters for your 395nm led.

[Plasmid]

Thank you, this helps a lot, will update as soon as I mount them.

[apochronaut]

If you are interested at all, I Miller microscope ( aka Microscope Central) probably still has arm rests for the 420. I splurged and bought a pair a number of years ago and they are quite nice actually. Not necessary but nice.
They were too expensive and I had to think a while about it but the money has gone and I use the arm rests. That was before the easy access to 3-D printing.
I thought about making wooden ones and I am sure they could easily be printed.
Miller are difficult but since there is almost a non-existant market for them, they may sell them cheaper now.
I can supply the dimensions if you want to print a pair.