Seoul Semiconductor SunLike 3030 LED testing
Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:24 am
I received the LEDs I ordered and soldered one of the 95+ CRI ones for evaluation.
product page
datasheet
Digi-Key
The larger cathode pad is soldered directly to a scrap of 1" x 1/8" solid copper busbar for heat dissipation. The procedure to solder it was:
Based on linear RGB values from raw files from my Nikon D5100 the LED running at 1 W is giving roughly 2-3x brighter field than the 20 W halogen with blue filter. I don't have a good permanent photo setup yet, currently using the D5100 with DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G handheld through the eyepiece. The brightness comparison shots were done in manual mode not changing anything about the microscope or camera setup except swinging out the halogen and moving the LED into position.
product page
datasheet
Digi-Key
The larger cathode pad is soldered directly to a scrap of 1" x 1/8" solid copper busbar for heat dissipation. The procedure to solder it was:
- Stick LED workbench, solder side up, with foam tape.
- Apply a bit of solder to the pad with standard soldering iron. (Did not end up using the syringe of solder paste visible in the background.)
- Clip vise to hold busbar vertical resting gently on the solder blob on the cathode pad.
- Heat busbar with propane torch, removing heat as soon as the solder reflowed.
- Cool busbar with damp rag to avoid keeping the LED hot for longer than necessary.
Based on linear RGB values from raw files from my Nikon D5100 the LED running at 1 W is giving roughly 2-3x brighter field than the 20 W halogen with blue filter. I don't have a good permanent photo setup yet, currently using the D5100 with DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G handheld through the eyepiece. The brightness comparison shots were done in manual mode not changing anything about the microscope or camera setup except swinging out the halogen and moving the LED into position.