I wired in the halogen bulb / holder today All seems to be working as expected. I found I can have both the halogen and the LED in together though only using one at a time, obvs. I'm hoping the heat from the halogen won't damage the LED. I suppose I could put an aluminium foil shield in under the halogen bulb if there are any problems. I have a separate DC socket for the input to the 12V/20W Halogen and LED but can use the same variable 3-12V PSU for either. You can certainly see the difference in colour between the two, especially with the halogen on a lower voltage. I've not made any images with it yet but will do some tomorrow and add them to the comparison thread I created yesterday. I've not received the multi-turn pot for the LED control yet. I'll put it in as soon as I get it and will have much better control over the LED brightness then.
Louise
New Toy 2!
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- Posts: 1167
- Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2020 1:51 pm
- Location: Scotland
Re: New Toy 2!
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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- Posts: 1167
- Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2020 1:51 pm
- Location: Scotland
Re: New Toy 2!
I set up a 3W violet LED to run on the T680 (above the Kohler unit) and used one of those motor controllers this time. It seems to work fine. I just have to set the input voltage to 5V then a very slight turn of the pot from minimum and the LED just starts to glow. Probably a slightly higher input voltage would allow some overdrive, if needed. So thanks for your idea, Greg - a very cheap and easy LED driver/dimmerGreg Howald wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 10:10 pmYour equipment if far better than mine. I have a power block, a pvm, and a lamp.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo