New Toy 2!
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New Toy 2!
Following on from my New Toy 1 thread...
I got the T680A bulb operational by changing the 110-220V slide switch position, so that was good. However, the potentiometer/brightness adjuster isn't working so it's on full brightness all the time - gets hot around the field diaphragm! I'll have to check and see whether it might just be due to a loose connection. Otherwise I might have to go to plan B and use a variable PSU instead. That could be a better, all-round solution anyway.
I took an image of a prepared slide plant stem using my 5MP Toupcam eyepiece camera. It slots straight into the top of the trinocular tube. I'm only using the supplied, and cheap, achromatic objectives at the moment: 4x, 10x, 20x, 40x, 100x The Kohler attachment adjusts as expected so that's good. I'll probably transfer the Nikons from the Swift once I sort out the psu/bulb.
First, another of the T680A:
The plant stem at 10x:
Louise
I got the T680A bulb operational by changing the 110-220V slide switch position, so that was good. However, the potentiometer/brightness adjuster isn't working so it's on full brightness all the time - gets hot around the field diaphragm! I'll have to check and see whether it might just be due to a loose connection. Otherwise I might have to go to plan B and use a variable PSU instead. That could be a better, all-round solution anyway.
I took an image of a prepared slide plant stem using my 5MP Toupcam eyepiece camera. It slots straight into the top of the trinocular tube. I'm only using the supplied, and cheap, achromatic objectives at the moment: 4x, 10x, 20x, 40x, 100x The Kohler attachment adjusts as expected so that's good. I'll probably transfer the Nikons from the Swift once I sort out the psu/bulb.
First, another of the T680A:
The plant stem at 10x:
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
Do you know what bulb is in there?
Halogen 6v 20w G4 capsule ect.
Halogen 6v 20w G4 capsule ect.
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Re: New Toy 2!
Good image Louise . Looks like it has a slider on the photo tube which can be a good thing. Since it is infinite, I could make adaptors for 30mm eyepieces without affecting magnification. Thanks for the post. I'll keep watching to decide whether or not to buy one
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Re: New Toy 2!
Yeah, it's a 6V 20W halogen. I tried a 12V 20W one but it's not so bright... The supply to the bulb isn't DC, it seems to be PWM. I tried measuring it with a meter on AC and the measured voltage seems to vary from about 5.5 to 8.5V with no load. It doesn't matter, I have plenty of 3W LEDs and it will be easy enough to do a conversion.Phill Brown wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 3:44 pmDo you know what bulb is in there?
Halogen 6v 20w G4 capsule ect.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
Hi Greg - it's a finite scope with standard 23.2mm EPs. I think there is some adjustment on the trinocular tube - there are two small screws. But I haven't tried adjusting it as it worked fine straightaway with the little Toupcam.Greg Howald wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 3:50 pmGood image Louise . Looks like it has a slider on the photo tube which can be a good thing. Since it is infinite, I could make adaptors for 30mm eyepieces without affecting magnification. Thanks for the post. I'll keep watching to decide whether or not to buy one
I'm not sure I'd especially recommend it but it does have a Kohler illumination add-on part which works. The build quality isn't great but about what I'd expect. I'll do a conversion to 3W LED when I get a minute .
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
I converted my B660 from halogen to 5 watt led yesterday and am well pleased. It runs on 7.0 volts dc. I just don't like the yellow from halogen when you reduce intensity of illumination. But that's just me. I also use Pepsodent Toothpaste cause you'll wonder where the yellow went.
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Re: New Toy 2!
Yes, it's worth doing. I've always presumed the colour variability is why halogen bulb microscopes are supplied with blue filters. I already have a LED driver psu and 3W LEDs. 5W seems a bit overbright though you have to check the Lumen output of the particular device. I've previously bought these 4V ones in the UK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131345637382Greg Howald wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 7:09 pmI converted my B660 from halogen to 5 watt led yesterday and am well pleased. It runs on 7.0 volts dc. I just don't like the yellow from halogen when you reduce intensity of illumination. But that's just me. I also use Pepsodent Toothpaste cause you'll wonder where the yellow went.
I may have to drill a hole in the stand for a potentiometer for the LED driver brightness control but that should be straightforward. When I've got it all done I'll post the results
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
Possibly a brushless DC motor PSU?
or switch mode
It should be over rated,I don't know any 20w motor applications,PC cooling fans maybe.
6v 30w halogen should be brighter but will draw more current.
12v 20w is not going to be as bright in theory either?
or switch mode
It should be over rated,I don't know any 20w motor applications,PC cooling fans maybe.
6v 30w halogen should be brighter but will draw more current.
12v 20w is not going to be as bright in theory either?
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Re: New Toy 2!
? Sorry, I don't understand what you're saying. Anyway, as you can see above I'm going to convert it to a 3W LED - more reliable and cooler. A warm white LED gives a good spectrum.Phill Brown wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 7:44 pmPossibly a brushless DC motor PSU?
or switch mode
It should be over rated,I don't know any 20w motor applications,PC cooling fans maybe.
6v 30w halogen should be brighter but will draw more current.
12v 20w is not going to be as bright in theory either?
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
No worries.
The PWM ref threw me.
6v 20w @100% PWM = 3 ⅓ amp?
12v 20w @ 100% PWM = 1.⅔ amp?
My maths is poor so hopefully one of the excellent people will rescue my half baked technically flawed sums and straighten out the can of worms I opened.
LED could flicker noticeably but sure you can sort it.
The PWM ref threw me.
6v 20w @100% PWM = 3 ⅓ amp?
12v 20w @ 100% PWM = 1.⅔ amp?
My maths is poor so hopefully one of the excellent people will rescue my half baked technically flawed sums and straighten out the can of worms I opened.
LED could flicker noticeably but sure you can sort it.
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Re: New Toy 2!
I use pvms from Amazon, a power block and leds.. it comes out very stable and I have no problems. And you are right Phil. 20 watt halogen is usually insufficient for all the different filters we put in the light path.
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Re: New Toy 2!
Oh, I didn't understand your references to motors etc. As you can see from the image of the psu module pcb (in the New Toy 1 thread )Phill Brown wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 8:23 pmNo worries.
The PWM ref threw me.
6v 20w @100% PWM = 3 ⅓ amp?
12v 20w @ 100% PWM = 1.⅔ amp?
My maths is poor so hopefully one of the excellent people will rescue my half baked technically flawed sums and straighten out the can of worms I opened.
LED could flicker noticeably but sure you can sort it.
it's a switching power supply that probably runs at a high frequency. Maybe it's not using pwm - perhaps just not rectifying the output to the bulb. In any case I'll likely not use the existing power supply for the LED. As mentioned, I have a constant current LED driver module which I've been using previously on the Swift and it works fine.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
Not sure what pvms is? I use one of these variable mains psus https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393988959120 ... 2542682915 and one of these constant current drivers (or similar) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313871226761Greg Howald wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 8:29 pmI use pvms from Amazon, a power block and leds.. it comes out very stable and I have no problems. And you are right Phil. 20 watt halogen is usually insufficient for all the different filters we put in the light path.
The variable psu lets me overdrive the LED - up to a point!
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
Your equipment if far better than mine. I have a power block, a pvm, and a lamp.
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Re: New Toy 2!
Oh ok - your 'power block' is similar to my variable psu - my one allows continuous varying the output although the LED brightness is really set by the constant current module. Your little module looks like a motor controller? I have a couple of similar ones but didn't think they'd control a LED properly though never actually tried it. Does yours let you control the brightness over a good range?Greg Howald wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 10:10 pmYour equipment if far better than mine. I have a power block, a pvm, and a lamp.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
Depending upon the voltage required. You have true control at a max of 3.7 volts and 3 watts. But at 7 volts and 5 watts, the light is dimly on as soon as you turn it on. So I wouldn't say that at 5 watts you have total control but there is no flicker unless voltage is set too high, over- driving the diode. I get good dimming. It is a motor controller. It is cheap but it does work.
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Re: New Toy 2!
Oh ok - sounds like it does the job. When I've put it together, I'll make a video of mine working - we can compare outcomes!Greg Howald wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 10:37 pmDepending upon the voltage required. You have true control at a max of 3.7 volts and 3 watts. But at 7 volts and 5 watts, the light is dimly on as soon as you turn it on. So I wouldn't say that at 5 watts you have total control but there is no flicker unless voltage is set too high, over- driving the diode. I get good dimming. It is a motor controller. It is cheap but it does work.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: New Toy 2!
I use a pre-packaged LED driver, LEDdynamics A009-D-V-2100; not the cheapest option, but I get 8w and dimming with no flicker.
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Re: New Toy 2!
Yeah, a constant current driver is relatively cheap and won't flicker, and it's also not hard to set up if you can solder. I used the hobbyist-favorite cree xml-2 neutral white LED for my gemscope with a buckblock driver and a cheap potentiometer switch, giving about 6w at the brightest setting and easy dimming.
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Re: New Toy 2!
I made a quick video of the above setup I mentioned. It's just what I've been using previously but it needs to be incorporated into the T680. Also, I think the particular 3W LED is a daylight white one but I've ordered some warm white ones which should have reduced blue and better overall colour. The light output is a bit too much for my phone . As you can see in the video I'm adjusting the output via a trimpot on the constant current module which is a bit fiddly for my old fingers, lol. I'll convert to a proper pot I can then mount on the stand. I think I'll keep the variable voltage psu external and just have a 2.1mm DC socket on the back of the T680 and that I can plug into. It's a Formula 1 weekend so I may not do much until next week
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6TTaBtGDalY
Louise
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6TTaBtGDalY
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
FLICKER TROUBLES.
So, I don't have a dslr. All I have is these microscope cameras from Amscope. I have been experimenting with
MU100-HS
MU1403
MU1000
AND
WF200.
WITH THE 1000-HS, 1403, AND 1000, I HAVE FLICKER AT ALL BUT MINIMUM ILLUMINATION INTENSITY.
WITH WF200 I HAVE NO FLICKER AT ANY INTENSITY LEVEL.
OTHER CAMERAS ARE POWERED BY THE COMPUTER, BUT WF200 HAS A SEPERATE POWER SUPPLY, RUN FROM A FIVE VOLT POWER BLOCK AND IS NETWORKED BY WIFI TO THE COMPUTER. SO....
IS THE FLICKER BEING CAUSED BY THE LED LAMP, OR BY THE COMPUTER?
NOT THAT I'M TERRIBLY WORRIED ABOUT IT. THE WF200 IS A PRETTY GOOD CAMERA.
THANKS FOR ANY INPUT.
GREG
So, I don't have a dslr. All I have is these microscope cameras from Amscope. I have been experimenting with
MU100-HS
MU1403
MU1000
AND
WF200.
WITH THE 1000-HS, 1403, AND 1000, I HAVE FLICKER AT ALL BUT MINIMUM ILLUMINATION INTENSITY.
WITH WF200 I HAVE NO FLICKER AT ANY INTENSITY LEVEL.
OTHER CAMERAS ARE POWERED BY THE COMPUTER, BUT WF200 HAS A SEPERATE POWER SUPPLY, RUN FROM A FIVE VOLT POWER BLOCK AND IS NETWORKED BY WIFI TO THE COMPUTER. SO....
IS THE FLICKER BEING CAUSED BY THE LED LAMP, OR BY THE COMPUTER?
NOT THAT I'M TERRIBLY WORRIED ABOUT IT. THE WF200 IS A PRETTY GOOD CAMERA.
THANKS FOR ANY INPUT.
GREG
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Re: New Toy 2!
Hi GregGreg Howald wrote: ↑Mon May 23, 2022 5:05 amFLICKER TROUBLES.
So, I don't have a dslr. All I have is these microscope cameras from Amscope. I have been experimenting with
MU100-HS
MU1403
MU1000
AND
WF200.
WITH THE 1000-HS, 1403, AND 1000, I HAVE FLICKER AT ALL BUT MINIMUM ILLUMINATION INTENSITY.
WITH WF200 I HAVE NO FLICKER AT ANY INTENSITY LEVEL.
OTHER CAMERAS ARE POWERED BY THE COMPUTER, BUT WF200 HAS A SEPERATE POWER SUPPLY, RUN FROM A FIVE VOLT POWER BLOCK AND IS NETWORKED BY WIFI TO THE COMPUTER. SO....
IS THE FLICKER BEING CAUSED BY THE LED LAMP, OR BY THE COMPUTER?
NOT THAT I'M TERRIBLY WORRIED ABOUT IT. THE WF200 IS A PRETTY GOOD CAMERA.
THANKS FOR ANY INPUT.
GREG
I would suspect your LED dimmer (the motor controller?). Easy to check - get a small mirror that you can put above the LED and use daylight (not sunlight!) as a temporary illumination source.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
I got the LED conversion basically done ok. I took out all of the original psu and replaced it with the LED driver. I left the halogen bulb holder and cabling so it leaves open the option of using a bulb should I ever want to.
Here are some pics:
Original halogen bulb:
LED Driver installed (Velcro'd to the inside of the rear cover):
Connector and Pot on rear (I 3D printed a small plastic rectangle to hold the pot and the DC input connector):
LED test:
Everything seems to be working ok - except... I didn't think enough when I substituted a 10K rotary potentiometer in place of the 10K trimmer pot fitted to the LED driver board. The latter is a multi-turn device whereas the rotary pot is less than a single revolution. Consequently I lost the resolution of the trimmer - d'uh. So, I've ordered a multi-turn 10K rotary pot off Ebay. I'm not sure if it will just fit in place of the standard pot but hopefully it won't be difficult to sort that out.
Here are some pics:
Original halogen bulb:
LED Driver installed (Velcro'd to the inside of the rear cover):
Connector and Pot on rear (I 3D printed a small plastic rectangle to hold the pot and the DC input connector):
LED test:
Everything seems to be working ok - except... I didn't think enough when I substituted a 10K rotary potentiometer in place of the 10K trimmer pot fitted to the LED driver board. The latter is a multi-turn device whereas the rotary pot is less than a single revolution. Consequently I lost the resolution of the trimmer - d'uh. So, I've ordered a multi-turn 10K rotary pot off Ebay. I'm not sure if it will just fit in place of the standard pot but hopefully it won't be difficult to sort that out.
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: New Toy 2!
My problem solved. Examination of equipment found incoming voltage set too high. Flicker gone. Bravo.
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Re: New Toy 2!
That's good!Greg Howald wrote: ↑Mon May 23, 2022 7:49 pmMy problem solved. Examination of equipment found incoming voltage set too high. Flicker gone. Bravo.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: New Toy 2!
Nice find, with its built-in power indication.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 8:48 pmand one of these constant current drivers (or similar) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313871226761
I have other constant current boards but have to wire up voltmeter and ammeter which can be a hassle,(not to mention doing mental math to arrive at a power !)
In your ebaying have you seen a bare-board version anywhere (I dont need the box)
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Re: New Toy 2!
I replied to this before but it disappeared! Anyway, no, not seen any but hadn't really looked. There may be other DC-DC/buck converters that are similar to the above one.SWmicro wrote: ↑Tue May 24, 2022 7:12 pmNice find, with its built-in power indication.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 8:48 pmand one of these constant current drivers (or similar) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313871226761
I have other constant current boards but have to wire up voltmeter and ammeter which can be a hassle,(not to mention doing mental math to arrive at a power !)
In your ebaying have you seen a bare-board version anywhere (I dont need the box)
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: New Toy 2!
Hi Louise,
perhaps you may test the heat sink for temperature when running at full power. Did you use heat compound?
As long as I can touch the heat sinks for some seconds I treat them as ok.
Bob
perhaps you may test the heat sink for temperature when running at full power. Did you use heat compound?
As long as I can touch the heat sinks for some seconds I treat them as ok.
Bob
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Re: New Toy 2!
Yeah, I used AG Termoglu to fix the LED to a piece of aluminium bar and between the bar and the metal lamp enclosure. Much less heat given off compared to the 20W halogen cooker!
Louise
PS it's only a 3W LED so shouldn't get too hot if not overdriven
Last edited by LouiseScot on Wed May 25, 2022 2:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo