Swift SW380T or OMAX model (B005TJ5CEG)

[PaulPaul]

Hi Microscopy community,

I've been looking to purchase my first microscope for hobby use and have narrowed it down to 2 (maybe 3) models. I read through most of the buying guide info and a bunch of other posts to make sure I understand the key things to be looking for (mechanical stage, 160mm, abbe condenser, etc.). I know the Swift SW380T is recommended here but I have also been looking at the OMAX model B005TJ5CEG ( I will post the links below if it's allowed). I honestly can't tell why the Swift is $200 more than the OMAX because the differences I see are only 1) trinocular vs binocular, 2) 25x eyepiece vs 20x eyepiece (which I don't think actually adds anything in terms of viewing resolution?), and 3) the Siedentopf head on the SWIFT which does look a bit more comfortable/adjustable compared to the OMAX. In addition, I've been going back and forth about whether or not to spend the extra money on the trinocular vs. binocular Swift model (SW380T vs SW380B). I have an SLR camera but don't know how often I will end of needing the dedicated phototube.

Am I missing something? Is the $200 extra justified for the SWIFT? I do like the look of it more but in terms of optics and engineering they look very comparable.

If it's useful info, I'm most interested in looking at soil biology (fungi, protozoa, nematodes and organic matter).

Thanks!

SWIFT https://www.amazon.ca/Swift-SW380T-Magn ... s9dHJ1ZQ==

OMAX https://www.amazon.ca/OMAX-40X-2000X-Bi ... S73KGJ1YDV

[JanM236]

I have the Swift SW380T. I am enjoying it very much. The optical quality is very good. I did replace the 100X oil objective with a dry 60X. The 100X works as it should, but it doesn’t fit my purposes well.

[PaulPaul]

Thanks for your reply JanM. What was the reason you ended up choosing the SW380T? What are you using it to look at mostly? Thanks!

[PeteM]

I can offer up some reasons why you might want to step up a bit further from either the Swift or the Omax.

Not entirely sure about the Swift, since I don't own one - but did pick up one of the Omax (used but like new) just to see if it would be a good choice for kids. First, it's usable. If that price point and buying new is the only alternative then it beats no microscope. Might add that a used Chinese scope is worth about 60% of its new price the instant it's taken out of the box. They're somewhat commonly available as families buy a scope for their kids, maybe homeschooled, and then lose interest.

Note that it's a very lightweight and marginally constructed microscope. Probably not suitable to support a regular camera. Possibly a plus if you wanted to carry it around into the field or with kids on a summer vacation.

"Widefield" means an 18mm field of view rather than 20 or 22mm. The objectives are achromats rather than plan achromats. OK for viewing. Not as good for making photos or movies.

The nosepiece has four rather than five positions. So, if you want a 4x (to see more of the slide), 10x, 20x (very useful), 40x, and 100x you have to decide which one to hardly ever use. The nosepiece itself not likely to last years of turning.

The light source doesn't have an iris, so Kohler illumination isn't an option. Also not particularly bright (but then options that might need more light aren't much available). The condenser attaches to the stage rather than to its own adjustable carrier. If you hope to upgrade the microscope over time, the options will be limited.

And then the lack of a trinocular head. Add in the somewhat crude (compared to pro scopes) focus adjustments and it's not a good platform for focus stacking.

In another thread, note was made of a new and better-built Motic microscope with a complete plan achromat phase contrast setup. Twice the price, but a better scope and perhaps more likely to encourage a more lasting involvement with microscopy?

[Placozoa]

The swift appears to have slots in the housing between the light source and its lens. My premiere has this and it allows me to slide in a homemade darkfield stop that gives me darkfield with my 40x and 60x objectives. (Not possible with filter rack homemade darkfield stops). The omax has a solid housing so this wont be possible.

Another difference I spot is that on the swift the nosepiece is constructed so the objectives swing away from you. This makes it tougher to add a led battery powered headlamp as a toplight, something I did on my amscope that is handy. On the other hand this design means it is easier to get slides in and out and add water drops.

[PaulPaul]

The swift appears to have slots in the housing between the light source and its lens. My premiere has this and it allows me to slide in a homemade darkfield stop that gives me darkfield with my 40x and 60x objectives. (Not possible with filter rack homemade darkfield stops). The omax has a solid housing so this wont be possible.

Another difference I spot is that on the swift the nosepiece is constructed so the objectives swing away from you. This makes it tougher to add a led battery powered headlamp as a toplight, something I did on my amscope that is handy. On the other hand this design means it is easier to get slides in and out and add water drops.

Thanks for your insights Placozoa. I haven't heard much about the need to add an additional toplight until now. What types of specimens are you viewing that you find the use of a top light beneficial? Do you use it often?

[Placozoa]

I like looking at live microbes, so for a regular wetmount I wouldnt normally use a toplight. For a no coverslip wet sample I may use the toplight to look at the top of bits of dirt or organic material for interesting fungal hyphae or maybe to look at a thick microarthropod. I have made slides with soil between two slides and a plant planted in the soil, then I can observe the rhizosphere and see such things as wild nematodes, rather than ones thrashing around drowning. They look less seethrough and frantic, much less creepy in real life.

I also use the toplight for other stuff, like seeing if my drillbits were sharpened correctly (I was sharpening them). Seeing how my knives were sharpened (again, I sharpened them). I used it to look at moss, very interesting. Basically it lets me use my compound the way a stereo microscope would be used. It keeps things interesting, another option, and I guess thats just as important.

I would like to add that I am extremely satisfied with my "chinese" scopes, I cant do DIC with them (big $$$ for that, several thousand, but it looks really sharp), but other than that I am happy with them. The other nice thing about them is the freedom, I took an objective apart and cleaned it, successfully. This is normally a bad idea, its not likely to end well, and the chance of any dirt or anything actually being inside of it is almost zero. I dont think I would have the nerve to that with an expen$ive objective and I would have missed out on seeing how the seals and stuff work inside it first hand. Plus its clean and sharp now, it was blurry and useless when it came with the scope.

[mookerific]

I have the Swift SW380T. I am enjoying it very much. The optical quality is very good. I did replace the 100X oil objective with a dry 60X. The 100X works as it should, but it doesn’t fit my purposes well.

Where did you get the 60x eyepiece? I would like to do the same! Thanks so much!

[SilverWolf]

I have the Swift SW380T. I am enjoying it very much. The optical quality is very good. I did replace the 100X oil objective with a dry 60X. The 100X works as it should, but it doesn’t fit my purposes well.

Where did you get the 60x eyepiece? I would like to do the same! Thanks so much!

It's easy to get affordable basic acro objectives in the DIN range, that's one of the benefits of these kind of microscopes that objectives and replacement parts are cheap and easy to come by. I grabbed a 20x and 60x dry objective for my Swift, I don't use the 100x oil so thought I'd replace with something more everyday-ish for my needs. There are so many places you can buy DIN objectives, a lot of local microscopy stores will carry a range, I got mine off eBay though would have been cheaper on AliExpress. I got my extra objectives from a local microscope store to me that happens to also sell via their online store and through eBay

[mookerific]

That's good to hear. However a look at Aliexpress reveals a bunch of objectives of varying sizes, many of which seem like they may work just based on the similarity of the numbers written on them but which don't list DIN as a metric. If you could perhaps provide a link to what you got I could work backwards from there? Returning an item bought from Aliexpress I imagine would be a nightmare...

[SilverWolf]

That's good to hear. However a look at Aliexpress reveals a bunch of objectives of varying sizes, many of which seem like they may work just based on the similarity of the numbers written on them but which don't list DIN as a metric. If you could perhaps provide a link to what you got I could work backwards from there? Returning an item bought from Aliexpress I imagine would be a nightmare...

Ok, basically it's quite simple really. You want objectives with matching numbers to the type the microscope came with as their are different systems you need the one most compatible with your scope, so for the Swift 380T it has fitted standard achromatic 160/0.17 objectives. The numbers on a objective tell you the information needed, you obviously have the magnification which in this case we're talking about a 60x objective.The number next to the magnification is the numerical aperture value and the 160 is the tube length and the 0.17 means designed for use with cover slips of a 0.17 thickness for optimum results.

So simply put 60x/0.85 by 160/0.17 are the kind of numbers your looking for, most objectives I've seen when looking seemed to all be the right size thread etc. This is the 60x objective I bought on eBay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-60X-DIN ... 2749.l2649 but you would likely find them cheaper on AliEpress or the likes.

[mookerific]

Thank you so much for this! It seems that a relative advantage to these "cheaper" microscopes (I put cheaper in quotes because a couple hundred dollars is still a lot of money to me!) is that they use pretty off-the-shelf components. You are right, with the information you provided, it seems as if there are a ton of options. I had to do a bit more research to figure out that there is an additional metric - the conjugate distance - that one needs to abide by. It appears that 195mm is the standard by a large margin, with 185 being considered "short-barreled". Of course, all roads led back to Oliver and a video of his explaining this. I'm not sure if Oliver reads these boards, but he really is in a position to publish a primer for amateur microscopy! I ended up purchasing 20x and 60x objectives from AliExpress for a nominal amount.

Now to figure out which foam case to buy to be able to store my microscope and all accessories! I'lll keep everyone posted on what I find.

That's good to hear. However a look at Aliexpress reveals a bunch of objectives of varying sizes, many of which seem like they may work just based on the similarity of the numbers written on them but which don't list DIN as a metric. If you could perhaps provide a link to what you got I could work backwards from there? Returning an item bought from Aliexpress I imagine would be a nightmare...

Ok, basically it's quite simple really. You want objectives with matching numbers to the type the microscope came with as their are different systems you need the one most compatible with your scope, so for the Swift 380T it has fitted standard achromatic 160/0.17 objectives. The numbers on a objective tell you the information needed, you obviously have the magnification which in this case we're talking about a 60x objective.The number next to the magnification is the numerical aperture value and the 160 is the tube length and the 0.17 means designed for use with cover slips of a 0.17 thickness for optimum results.

So simply put 60x/0.85 by 160/0.17 are the kind of numbers your looking for, most objectives I've seen when looking seemed to all be the right size thread etc. This is the 60x objective I bought on eBay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-60X-DIN ... 2749.l2649 but you would likely find them cheaper on AliEpress or the likes.

[Placozoa]

If one gets a 185 and should have gotten a 195 then a $10 (ebay) 10mm parfocal extender can be used and works perfectly. There are also JIS (japanese standard) objectives made for a 170mm tube instead of a 160mm tube. If one gets one of these by mistake it will work but magnifies a bit more. Keep us posted on how the objectives look when they arrive.