Introduction & sanity check

[Perrien]

I'm 40 years old, in central Texas. Looking to get a basic microscope purely for hobbyist reasons. Looking at pond water, dirt and dust, things like that. I'm looking at an AmScope B120B (Amazon Link) that seems to have fairly good bang for the buck. I know 2k magnification isn't all that realistic but hoping the 40-1000 is reasonable for seeing algae, bacteria, amoebas and such. I have a few sanity check questions before placing the order:

1) For what I'm describing (hobby viewing of the above) is that scope a reasonable model? Any others in the same price range that would be significantly better?
2) What are some of the first purchase accessories I should consider? I'm assuming some slides and covers, immersion oil (if not included). Some kind of basic staining kit? Pipettes?
3) Are there any articles or posts that give some good tests on a new microscope to ensure it's working correctly, clean lenses, etc? For instance with a telescope making sure it can resolve binary stars can be a good test. Any microscope subjects that may not be the most fascinating things but act as a good baseline of what you should be able to see at various magnifications?
4) I'm hoping to be able to take some basic pictures or videos, likely using an iPhone held up to the eyepiece (on a tripod if necessary). The amazon pics don't show any kind of eye cup so I'm assuming that kind of setup should work in a pinch, correct?

Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.

Edit: Another question@!

[JimT]

Perrien, welcome. This is a great site to learn from. Check out all the articles and resources on the home page.

I have the Amscope B120C (same scope with a USB camera-which I almost never use) and am very pleased with it. Here is a site that compares the B120 with a similar OMAX model:

http://microscopegenius.com/battle-of-t ... -cs-m82es/

You are right about the 20x eyepieces. Not useful and not heavy enough to be a paper weight. Upgrades you may want to consider are a 20x obj. (when 10x is not enough and 40x is too much), plan obj's for the 4x, 10x, and 40x (Unfortunatly Amscope doesn't offer a plan 20x obj., and a 60x obj. which gives a little extra magnification without having to go to oil immersion. BTW, I use the 20x a lot for micro organisms, algae, and plant cells. I am almost sure Amscope ships oil with the scope so you won't have to buy that separately.

Can't offer any help regarding tests to ensure the scope is working correctly but maybe someone else can.

Good luck. This is a fascinating hobby and unlike astronomy does not depend on clear skies

JimT

[zzffnn]

Welcome!

JimT has good points. 20x and 60x objectives are quite useful, more so than oil 100x.

I am into pond protists as well, IMHO, plan objectives for pond creatures are not very important (plan helps more with histology sldies and plant sections).

For pond creatures, I recommend using Klaus Kemp's test diatoms as resolution targets (since many protists are also nearly transparent, just like diatoms).

I used to be a bacteriologist. I don't think bacteria look that interesting under common light microscope (though they may look cute under TEM). It is just me though. I think ciliates, flagellates, rotifers, arthropods and diatoms may look more I teresting under light microscope.

Please look into DIY oblique filters - they enhance contrast and produce 3D effects for protists (they give amazing effects without costing any money - you can simply blutak a filter on a slide under the condenser bottom lens):
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... trast.html
http://www.microbehunter.com/how-to-mak ... e-filters/
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... iydic.html

You can use Orion SteadyPix Pro or anything similar (clones, rebrands) for mounting iPhone onto eyepiece. Tripod is not needed. Many telescope / digiscoping eyepiece adapters will work for microscope eyepieces (you can use a microscope eyepiece [23mm] to 1.25" telescope eyepiece adapter).

[75RR]

Hi Perrien,
One can argue that a trinocular is not needed in the same way that one can argue that a binocular is not needed.
However both are more convenient and provide for a better viewing experience.
If you are going to take photos - go for a trinocular.

If budget constraints make this impractical at the moment (or you are just testing the water so to speak), then be sure to include it on your next microscope.

[Perrien]

A couple of you mention a 20x objective being a useful addition. Is objective magnification generally better than eyepiece? Most microscopes seem to come with a 10 and 20x eyepiece. Adding a 20x objective doesn't give me any new magnification levels that cannot be had without it. I can get 200x magnification either with a 20x eye, 10x obj, or 10x eye, 20x obj. Would the second combination generally give a better image than the first?

Many thanks for the links on the oblique illumination, I'll definitely have to play around with that.

[75RR]

Forget the 20x eyepiece. It is only there so salesmen and manufactures can claim 2000x for the microscope, as is the 100x objective.

8x, 10x and 12.5x eyepieces are best.

Recommended objectives: 4x, 10x, 20x and 40x. A 60x would be nice but do not rush out to buy one, start with a 20x.

[zzffnn]

A couple of you mention a 20x objective being a useful addition. Is objective magnification generally better than eyepiece? Most microscopes seem to come with a 10 and 20x eyepiece. Adding a 20x objective doesn't give me any new magnification levels that cannot be had without it. I can get 200x magnification either with a 20x eye, 10x obj, or 10x eye, 20x obj. Would the second combination generally give a better image than the first?

Many thanks for the links on the oblique illumination, I'll definitely have to play around with that.

^ Objective magnification almost always provides better resolution, while 20x eyepieces usually give empty magnification (without more resolution), especially when you go to higher magnification. Most microscopists don't go over 15x with eyepiece magnification. 20x eyepieces can be very uncomfortable to use too, if you wear glasses.

[JimT]

Think of your telescope experiences. Resolving power is a function of objective size. Using a higher power eyepiece would do nothing to resolve a binary star (or add additional planetary detail).

Good advice about how different filters (which you make yourself) can enhance the observing experience. And, as 75RR said you don't have to rush out and buy everything all at once.

JimT

[Dale]

I have seen the same opinion about 20X oculars many times, but seems mostly in regards to
compound scopes. Would their usefulness be just as useless on a steroscope? My stereoscope
goes .7X to 3X with an aux 2X.
Dale

[75RR]

Hi Dale,

there is a formula (well a rule of thumb really) to calculate this: Range of Useful Magnification (500-1000 x NA of Objective)

in which the 500 x NA (Numerical Aperture) is the minimum necessary for the detail present in an image to be resolved,
and anything over 1000 x NA gives empty magnification.

as an example:
For a Plan 16/0,35NA Objective
the range would be between
500 x 0,35 = 175 and
1000 x 0,35 = 350 so
below 175x total magnification, detail will not be resolved
above 350x total magnification, no additional detail will be resolved

best Useful Magnification Range for this objective is between 175x and 350x

A quick test is to multiply the NA of an objective by 1000,
then multiply the magnification of the objective by the magnification of the eyepiece,
if the second figure is higher then using that objective with that eyepiece will result in empty magnification.

[Dale]

Whoa, thank you RR, most of those formulas give me a headache. I printed yours, and will apply to each obj to
see what I can, or can't see. It's probably my eyes, but with a 20x eyepiece and a 40X obj all I see is a loss
of depth of field. Maybe I need a better specimen, I am using a piece of dry onion skin!

[75RR]

Hi Dale,

If your 40x objective has an NA of 0,65 (that is the minimum I think) then the max magnification would be 650x

If you multiply 20x eyepieces by the 40x objective you get 800x, well into empty magnification.

If you divide the max magnification by the objective, in this case 650/40, you get a max eyepiece magnification of 16.

It is good to keep an eye on this, especially if you have a multiplier like an Optovar which can increase total magnification by 1.25x, 1.6x and 2x.

[Dale]

That helps. I am building a chart for each eyepiece/objective. I just
posted in another section, I thought I was stealing the topic. Back
to the calculator......
Dale

[Dennis]

Objective Lenses-

4X is good for scanning the slide for critters, then when find some, switch to the 10X or 20X

4X good for Copepods that are large.

10X good for Rotifers, vortecello etc in groups interacting with each other.
20X to zero in on ONE of them.

40X is good for Amoeba

Slides are cheap and can be cleaned and reused. (empty for specimens)
for 20X and higher. Actually technically for even 10X need cover glass instead of 2 slides.
I get double width cover glasses so more area to look through.

I personally like the older scopes on Ebay. Nikon etc...

Any scope will be fine for a first scope til you see if you like it or whatever.

I chose to buy a set of AmScope prepared slides which I feel helped me start out learning how to focus the microscope and use adjustments.

Oh have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-Dennis

[gekko]

Perrien, welcome to the forum! You got excellent replies already, so I just want to repeat what 75RR said, that if you are going to take pictures regularly, I would get a trinocular instrument.

[Dennis]

Oh on the sanity check, most people never even bother ever seeing through a microscope.
You are wise to want to learn.

-Dennis

[Dale]

I would avoid the cheap prepared slides on ebay. They are on small plastic slides, and they are filthy.
Dale

[mes0]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AO-AMERICAN-OPT ... BpfS7MUwrQ

If shipping isn't too much and you get the seller to accept an offer this would probably be pretty good. The 20x lens is nice bonus too.

[Charles]

Welcome Perrien,

I don't know about Amscopes but they seem to be a nice buy for the money and everything is new, clean and ready to work out of the box.

If buying a used scope, you will need to make sure it is complete, works and it may need a bit of cleaning.

The AO 110, mes0 pointed out on ebay, is a nice used scope but it is missing its slide holder on the stage.

If going for the same type of model, IMO this would be a better buy which includes shipping and has a dual head (could be used for a separate camera port or taken off if not desired):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381446894877?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
It appears to be complete and even has the rare 2.5X but not the 20X. If a 20X was desired for this scope, here is one for sale:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Optica ... Swu-BWPRWF

There are a lot of good buys out there in the used market, but there is nothing like brand new, fresh out of the box and everything working as it should.

[unseen4ce]

Charles wrote:

If going for the same type of model, IMO this would be a better buy which includes shipping and has a dual head (could be used for a separate camera port or taken off if not desired):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381446894877?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

On that page it list the 40x N.A incorrectly. Maybe. Is that number referring to the N.A ...it seems very high. 1.25 N.A for 100 is standard.
2.5/.07
4/.14
10/.25
40/1.66
100/1.25 OIL

After reading this thread I am beginning to see the source of some of my problems in understanding what N.A really means.
Very good info here.

And welcome Perrien

[charlie]

Welcome to the MicrobeHunter forum Perrien. (I am a noob too btw)

The Klaus Kemp's test diatoms are kind of pricey zzffnn. Are there one or a few that you recommend to start?

Thank you all for your super helpful comments in this post! I learned a lot from it, on a variety of topics!