Oh no, I am very thankful. And the cleaning makes everything more interesting! The 20x works beautifully now.
LOMO biolam C1
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Hi all,
Hallelujah, the WD 40 did his job and I took apart the entire lens and cleaned it all. Very satisfying.
Now, I have a problem with one if the optics parts which seems to be 2 lenses assembled in one. There is definitely something funky in the middle (I think that is what I saw looking through the lens before deciding to take it apart, as it looked cloudy) but I don't seem to be able to access it. What do you think?
Hallelujah, the WD 40 did his job and I took apart the entire lens and cleaned it all. Very satisfying.
Now, I have a problem with one if the optics parts which seems to be 2 lenses assembled in one. There is definitely something funky in the middle (I think that is what I saw looking through the lens before deciding to take it apart, as it looked cloudy) but I don't seem to be able to access it. What do you think?
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
So I put my optical piece under the microscope and saw that: what is this? Old fungus? Oil that made its way inside?
So interesting looking.
So interesting looking.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
WD40 obviouslywhat is this?
Honestly speaking: if you, at some point, would end up the conclusion you need a new one, I can send you mine. I don't have any use for it.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Thanks Leitzcycler, I don't think I really need a 60x. Really wanted to clean this one though.
I don't think it is the WD 40 because it was pre existing to me applying the WD 40.
Also, I spread a thin layer of WD 40 on a piece of glass and it looks like the attachment (same magnification 8x + 7x eye piece). I thought maybe it is WD 40 between 2 layers of almost touching lenses, but then it would be just clear with bubbles.
I don't think it is the WD 40 because it was pre existing to me applying the WD 40.
Also, I spread a thin layer of WD 40 on a piece of glass and it looks like the attachment (same magnification 8x + 7x eye piece). I thought maybe it is WD 40 between 2 layers of almost touching lenses, but then it would be just clear with bubbles.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
It was a joke, sorry
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Now I really want to know...
More pics of the phenomenon. Is that delamination?
Does't look like these: http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... ungus.html
This seems to be a doublet lens. Maybe it is delamination after all
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(lens)
Probably delamination...
http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/Delami ... epair.html
More pics of the phenomenon. Is that delamination?
Does't look like these: http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... ungus.html
This seems to be a doublet lens. Maybe it is delamination after all
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(lens)
Probably delamination...
http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/Delami ... epair.html
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Don't really know, however delamination would be the most probable option.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Alright, I tried heat to heal the delamination. Kind of worked on half of the lens. The center quality is much better but the outer ring still not good.
vs.
vs.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I don't think I am gonna do much better, so I put everything together and it works fine The delamilation must dampen the contrast a bit.
Re: LOMO biolam C1
Haha, 30 minutes at 150 C in the oven Well, it produces an image, not too bad, deteriorates quickly towards the edges. Your 90x makes it rather redundant, except maybe some day for darkfield...
I always assumed its lack of contrast was because I couldn't see any anti-reflection coating, maybe it was already old when I got it in 1986... never had the guts to pull it apart and have a closer look like you did.
I always assumed its lack of contrast was because I couldn't see any anti-reflection coating, maybe it was already old when I got it in 1986... never had the guts to pull it apart and have a closer look like you did.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
There are discussion how to refurbish a delaminated objective lenses. Some people use immersion oil which fill the empty gaps between lenses. Your lens system looks like it is no possible to dismantle. An it is very badly delaminated I think. However, what might happen if you immerse the whole lens module into immersion oil and then give some heat? Or maybe even better: suck the immersed lens into vacuum for some minutes so the air between lenses will come out and immersion oil will fill the gaps.
Sorry, I don't remember if there was the idea using vacuum already discussed here. Sadly, vacuum is unattainable for most people.
I am not sure about the collimation and such things during reassembly...
Sorry, I don't remember if there was the idea using vacuum already discussed here. Sadly, vacuum is unattainable for most people.
I am not sure about the collimation and such things during reassembly...
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
The vaccuum idea is interesting. I guess it works even better if one heats it at the same time so the balsam becomes fluid ish.Leitzcycler wrote: ↑Sat Sep 11, 2021 7:39 amOr maybe even better: suck the immersed lens into vacuum for some minutes so the air between lenses will come out and immersion oil will fill the gaps.
I think I will have 2 configurations, one for air observations and one for oil. The 60x will be interesting to have because the working distances of the 20x or 40x are too small and risk to dip in the oil when I go back from the 90x
Air: 4x 8x 20x 40x
Oil: 4x 8x 60x 90x
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I am revisiting this question and am thinking of trying https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000975570490.htmlHobbyst46 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 30, 2021 11:47 amNot stupid. Direct projection of the image from the objective to the camera sensor is possible. Indeed, it only requires mechanical adapters between the camera body and the microscope, without an eyepiece. Just tried it a few days ago. The distance to optimize is the distance between the camera and objective shoulder (just below the thread). However, because the objective needs an appropriate coupled eyepiece to minimize the various aberrations, the image formed that way was inferior than images obtained via eyepiece projection (objective->eyepiece->camera body) or afocal photography (objective->eyepiece->camera lens->camera body).
Would you have pictures taken with your setup (without eyepiece) with direct projection onto camera sensor? I would be interested to see how they look like.
Re: LOMO biolam C1
With direct projection you would want to pick up the intermediate image 13mm down inside the tube. This adpater would either have to contain a lens group (doesn't look so) that projects the intermediate image further out or you would have to refocus heavyly, which affects image quality.
Re: LOMO biolam C1
Here they come.smollerthings wrote: ↑Thu Sep 16, 2021 11:12 amWould you have pictures taken with your setup (without eyepiece) with direct projection onto camera sensor? I would be interested to see how they look like.
Photos of a standard stage micrometer, with objectives 10X and 40X, each of the two methods:
It appears that the camera is not accurately coaxial with the optical train of the microscope, but this is of minor importance.
Direct projection without any eyepiece or relay optics, just the objective, a mechanical adapter similar to the one you pointed the link to, and a mirrorless camera.
Considerable re-focussing was necessary but an image appeared. Note the vignetting, chromatic aberration, less contrast. Still, an image.
Eyepiece projection - objective and a hybrid eyepiece that is specific to Zeiss and suggested by Rolf Vossen, no further optics. better images and no need to re-focus, that is, the camera is parfocal with the viewing eyepieces. Still vignetting with the 10X, since the condenser was not optimized. Also small spatial aberrations. Note that the field of view is much narrower. It is ~58% of what I see through the eyepieces.
Afocal images (objective, eyepiece and camera lens) that I recorded in the past were much better than the first method yet inferior to the second.
Since my images are for documentation only, I can live with it. Possibly, with different lenses, could be better.
Charles Krebs has described all methods in detail on his site.
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- Zeiss Neofluar 10X0.30 - hybrid eyepiece projection.JPG (96.22 KiB) Viewed 3888 times
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- Zeiss Neofluar 40X0.75 - hybrid eyepiece projection.JPG (100.86 KiB) Viewed 3888 times
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Thanks, this is very telling. The eyepiece projection seems to be the one to go for. Do you guys know if there is an adaptor for that? On Aliexpress, the cheap ones seem to be direct projection without optics, the expensive ones have an "integrated eye piece". Maybe it is hard to make one fit it all eye piece projection adaptor?
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I have identified some good threads for my question:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13456
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7642
I am going to browse them for inspiration and knowledge.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13456
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7642
I am going to browse them for inspiration and knowledge.
Re: LOMO biolam C1
RAF camera sells a flanged adapter that will fit directly into the top of the Lomo's framework in place of the prism head, you will need some extension tubes between the camera and the adapter but this seems a bit less precarious than dangling a heavy camera on the end of the eyepeice tube.
Less chance of the image being mucked up by the prism, internal reflections et al. EDIT; this is the adapter:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142376792380 ... SwxCVgG69i
Less chance of the image being mucked up by the prism, internal reflections et al. EDIT; this is the adapter:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142376792380 ... SwxCVgG69i
Last edited by Chas on Mon Sep 20, 2021 12:25 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: LOMO biolam C1
Which hybrid eyepiece mix did you use?
Zeiss Standard WL (somewhat fashion challenged) & Wild M8
Olympus E-P2 (Micro Four Thirds Camera)
Olympus E-P2 (Micro Four Thirds Camera)
Re: LOMO biolam C1
"Full 8x-10x hybrid". The eye lens and field lens from a 10x KPL, and the tube from a 8x KPL. Both of the original eyepieces are low-eyepoint, not the KPL-W type.