LOMO biolam C1
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LOMO biolam C1
Hi Everyone,
I am a newbie thinking of getting a vintage LOMO Biolam C1 microscope. It is quite complex and I have a couple of questions.
1. The objective lenses. Despite reading this article:
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... iolam.html
I can't figure out if the objectives are stardard DIN and if I can buy a normal DIN 20x objective on Aliexpress like the one below.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000427 ... LMThw&mp=1
Also the aliexpress lens is specified to be 195 mm, what does this mean?
2. My microscope doesn't come with a mechanical stage, I found some that can be adapted like this one
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002026637916.html
Would that work?
Thanks!
Chris
I am a newbie thinking of getting a vintage LOMO Biolam C1 microscope. It is quite complex and I have a couple of questions.
1. The objective lenses. Despite reading this article:
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... iolam.html
I can't figure out if the objectives are stardard DIN and if I can buy a normal DIN 20x objective on Aliexpress like the one below.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000427 ... LMThw&mp=1
Also the aliexpress lens is specified to be 195 mm, what does this mean?
2. My microscope doesn't come with a mechanical stage, I found some that can be adapted like this one
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002026637916.html
Would that work?
Thanks!
Chris
Re: LOMO biolam C1
Hi Chris,
the Biolams were designed with 160mm tube length, ca. 33m objective parfocal length and c
intermediate image ca. 13mm down the tube. This is close to old Zeiss Jena dimensions wich is what the Biolam was copied of and the simpliefied. So this is not DIN (160-45-10). Objectives with tube length 195 are not DIN conform. Here in Germany basic Biolams are plenty on the used market and all basic components are readily available so no one would bother with fitting chinese stuff.
The biolams are nice microscopes. The oldestround model is a straight copy of the Zeiss Jena LG, my one was made very well. The first angular model has a geared fine focus which is nicer to use but doesn't resist abuse, the later model with disc fine focus is especially easy to dismantle and re-grease and very robust.
Bob
the Biolams were designed with 160mm tube length, ca. 33m objective parfocal length and c
intermediate image ca. 13mm down the tube. This is close to old Zeiss Jena dimensions wich is what the Biolam was copied of and the simpliefied. So this is not DIN (160-45-10). Objectives with tube length 195 are not DIN conform. Here in Germany basic Biolams are plenty on the used market and all basic components are readily available so no one would bother with fitting chinese stuff.
The biolams are nice microscopes. The oldestround model is a straight copy of the Zeiss Jena LG, my one was made very well. The first angular model has a geared fine focus which is nicer to use but doesn't resist abuse, the later model with disc fine focus is especially easy to dismantle and re-grease and very robust.
Bob
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I agree. Why not buy Lomo objectives for Lomo microscope? They are not so expensive in Ebay.
I may have some Lomo stuff I don't need, however don't remember if there was 20x objective. Do you have 90x immersion objective?
Is your model C1 monocular or binocular head?
Where are you located?
I may have some Lomo stuff I don't need, however don't remember if there was 20x objective. Do you have 90x immersion objective?
Is your model C1 monocular or binocular head?
Where are you located?
Re: LOMO biolam C1
You do want an X-Y stage/slider, which will make finding (and chasing) things on the slide a lot easier. If you can't find a compatible LOMO slider, the generic one you linked costs so little that buying and trying it is not much of a risk. The stage of your LOMO may already be drilled for it (I once found that the case with a "toy" microscope and a cheap Chinese X-Y slider--apparently there was some standardization) but even if not, you can probably find some easy way of attaching the X-Y slider--use a clamp; drill holes; whatever--so long as the stage is large enough to accommodate the slider, and it most likely is.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Thanks guys for your responses and sharing the knowledge.
@MicroBob Pic of the microscope below. I guess this is the angular version?
It then makes much more sense to get the Lomo objectives. I think I will first get my hands on this (new, never opened!) biolam and take it apart to regrease it. If it survives my lack of skills, I will try it and see if I need the 20x. The original box includes the 8x, 40x and 90x oil. I don't see myself use the 90x oil, being a lazy fellow, so I was thinking of getting the 20x.
@Leitzcycler
I am located in France. It is the monocular version.
Thanks @Dubious. I will probably just do that for the slider. Not too much risk involved
Cheers!
@MicroBob Pic of the microscope below. I guess this is the angular version?
It then makes much more sense to get the Lomo objectives. I think I will first get my hands on this (new, never opened!) biolam and take it apart to regrease it. If it survives my lack of skills, I will try it and see if I need the 20x. The original box includes the 8x, 40x and 90x oil. I don't see myself use the 90x oil, being a lazy fellow, so I was thinking of getting the 20x.
@Leitzcycler
I am located in France. It is the monocular version.
Thanks @Dubious. I will probably just do that for the slider. Not too much risk involved
Cheers!
Re: LOMO biolam C1
Good idea to get a 20x for it. If you can find a Lomo 20x/0.65 apo, go for it! Not plan at all but a very sharp image, one of the few objectives that benefit from a 20x eyepiece.
Looks like those are Kompensation eyepieces, they should be fine with Lomo apo's.
There is the 20x/0.40 achromat too, just a standard 20x. Actually, Lomo had a huge range of objectives: water and oil immersions, apos, plans etc.
Congratulations, it should be fine after the re-grease!
Looks like those are Kompensation eyepieces, they should be fine with Lomo apo's.
There is the 20x/0.40 achromat too, just a standard 20x. Actually, Lomo had a huge range of objectives: water and oil immersions, apos, plans etc.
Congratulations, it should be fine after the re-grease!
Re: LOMO biolam C1
This is what I called the angular version, earlier edition with geared fine focus, similar tonthe Zeiss Jena LG's. In the LOMO Infothek you can find all information and probably a maintenance manual for this model. A nice expandable microscope and fairly compact and light. Don't move the gummed up fine focus before relubricating it. The included immersion oil shouldn't be used but disposed of properly, it might contain PCBs or otherwise gum up quickly.
With these Biolams cheap on the market I don't understand the popularity of cheap chinese microscopes....
Bob, who has one Biolam and one Biolam based DIY field microscope and an old, round Biolam field microscope...
With these Biolams cheap on the market I don't understand the popularity of cheap chinese microscopes....
Bob, who has one Biolam and one Biolam based DIY field microscope and an old, round Biolam field microscope...
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I am very excited...
Lomonaut, I think I will just get a 20x 0.4 achromatic. I think it will be useful. I was hesitating between the 20x or a 60x dry. But I think 40x is already good magnification.
Bob, what kind of lighting do you use with your lomo? Does a regular light suffice?
Lomonaut, I think I will just get a 20x 0.4 achromatic. I think it will be useful. I was hesitating between the 20x or a 60x dry. But I think 40x is already good magnification.
Bob, what kind of lighting do you use with your lomo? Does a regular light suffice?
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I have a 60x dry objective. The image is really very bad. I don't know if it is somehow damaged or are the all 60x Lomo objectives the same.I was hesitating between the 20x or a 60x dry.
Sorry, I don't have an extra 20x. I have one 20x Apo which I will keep in my set. It is of high quality.
Re: LOMO biolam C1
But I do have an extra Lomo 20x/0.40 - I haven't used it since the 20x/0.65 Apo arrived, back in.. eh.. 1986? It should be fine, it came with student microscope MBU-4. I'll keep that 20x Apo, just like Leizcycler - sorry!Leitzcycler wrote: ↑Sat Aug 21, 2021 7:30 pmI have a 60x dry objective. The image is really very bad. I don't know if it is somehow damaged or are the all 60x Lomo objectives the same.
Sorry, I don't have an extra 20x. I have one 20x Apo which I will keep in my set. It is of high quality.
Another one I hardly ever use(d) is the 60x/0.7-1.0 Apo oil. The diaphragm is stuck (hardened lubrication) but hey it's apochromatic.
Here's an idea smollerthings: if you manage to clean up, re-grease this Biolam and get it operational, they are yours!
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Have a look at this thread viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9121&p=80556#p80556
and see the picture showing the Biolam focusing system dismantled. After cleaning and relubrication, make sure the pin lifting the coarse focus block stands exactly upright so that it will go into the hollow when you slide the arm back.
I previously thought the jammed grease is a specific problem ofwit Lomos... until I bought an old Olympus FH. It was much much worse. I ordered the new greases from Osim Optik Germany. They will assist you which type of grease would be best.
and see the picture showing the Biolam focusing system dismantled. After cleaning and relubrication, make sure the pin lifting the coarse focus block stands exactly upright so that it will go into the hollow when you slide the arm back.
I previously thought the jammed grease is a specific problem ofwit Lomos... until I bought an old Olympus FH. It was much much worse. I ordered the new greases from Osim Optik Germany. They will assist you which type of grease would be best.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Thanks guys, I'll post some updates when I get that gem.
@Lomonaut, thanks for your offer! It is very kind.
@Leitzcycler How important is it to get the right grease? I was just gonna get a high quality PTFE grease like this one
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B000XBH9HI
@Lomonaut, thanks for your offer! It is very kind.
@Leitzcycler How important is it to get the right grease? I was just gonna get a high quality PTFE grease like this one
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B000XBH9HI
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Unfortunately I am not an expert in this. Your grease might be just fine. There were some discussions about this subject in this forum. You may find them if you search.How important is it to get the right grease?
It was maybe 30 years ago when I got my first real microscope. It was a university surplus Biolam. It was stuck in every way and when cleaning and relubricating I used an ordinary machine grease. No problem. Of course I knew almost nothing about microscopes at that time...
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Unboxing of my new vintage biolam C1.
42 years after its manufacturing date!!!
What an exciting adventure...
Now I need to make it work
42 years after its manufacturing date!!!
What an exciting adventure...
Now I need to make it work
Last edited by smollerthings on Wed Sep 01, 2021 11:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I am a bit lost. There is not enough instructions on this guide for me to get started...
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... wlomo.html
Everything is seized, where should i go from there?
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... wlomo.html
Everything is seized, where should i go from there?
Last edited by smollerthings on Wed Sep 01, 2021 11:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: LOMO biolam C1
Buy some kerosene-based ‘dismantling fluid’ and apply it sparingly to the joint-line of any components that are seizedsmollerthings wrote: ↑Fri Aug 27, 2021 1:52 pm
Everything is seized, where should i go from there?
https://imgur.com/a/Ly4XJL1
… leave it for a day or two, then gently test for movement
… repeat as neccessary
Don’t force any of the mechanisms !
MichaelG.
.
My own favourite is PlusGas ‘Formula A’ but you should easily find something similar.
Too many 'projects'
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Thanks! I don't have PlusGas in France. Will try WD40.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
watch out with pressurized spray solvents and fluids they can get into dumb and bad places
1942 Bausch and Lomb Series T Dynoptic, Custom Illumination
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I have also used WD40 or similar product. It is possible to get only a drop or two by pressing very gently. It needs some practice though. However, you may need to dissolve the old grease by dipping the mechanical parts into petroleum anyway. That means you need to take everything apart. Do not use force with jammed mechanism or you may damage them. For instance, the condenser gear is made of plastic and is very easily damaged if you try to move the jammed condenser holder.
For some parts you may use gentle warming with a hairdryer.
For some parts you may use gentle warming with a hairdryer.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I am quite new at this and I have some difficulty to take it apart...
I don't understand how I can take the dovetail apart without sliding it out? (and I can't slide it out because it is seized...)
I must be missing something.
I don't understand how I can take the dovetail apart without sliding it out? (and I can't slide it out because it is seized...)
I must be missing something.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
The idea is to first soften the hardened grease using WD40 and perhaps by gentle warming. WD40 will penetrate into the dovetail surfaces when applied from top and/or side. Taking the arm apart (sliding) is more easy if you have it fixed into the base. From the pictures I see you have taken it apart. What I did, is that I lifted the arm with a big, flat screwdriver very carefully while turning the coarse focus knob simultaneously (some cardboard around the screwdriver head for keeping the surfaces not to get scratched). Maybe is better to remove the coarse focus knobs and axle first. The fine focus block is freely removable after you have removed the plate with a serial number (two screws and a spring under). Screwdriver between the block and base and gentle lift. There are good pictures in the link you posted.
I don't take any responsibility advising using the screwdriver. The method needs some patience and skill.
I don't take any responsibility advising using the screwdriver. The method needs some patience and skill.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
This may be difficult as the axle slides away to one direction only as far as I can remember (when knobs removed). I cant say which way in your microscope. The Biolams I have refurbished have been older models with different type of coarse focus knobs. So I can't advise you with this part.Maybe is better to remove the coarse focus knobs and axle first
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
Thanks for all the info. The first link is a gold mine! Just what I was looking for. Hopefully I will make some more progress tomorrow.
Re: LOMO biolam C1
Did you find these repair infos: http://www.mikroskopfreunde-nordhessen.de/lomo.php
Re: LOMO biolam C1
-Cigarette lighter fluid (not the gas) is really good at softening the hardened grease and it doesn't have oil in it.
Leave it 5 ot ten minutes or even 20, if 'whatever' doesn't want to move ...apply some more fluid wait another ten minutes and try again.
Have plenty of paper around as the grease is really disgusting.
And if you were sensible and have a pair of those thin gloves I would use them .. the dissolved grease really gets into your skin and stinks.
-Once you have removed the the black-coloured plate with the numbers on it, everything becomes more obvious.
Have fun
Leave it 5 ot ten minutes or even 20, if 'whatever' doesn't want to move ...apply some more fluid wait another ten minutes and try again.
Have plenty of paper around as the grease is really disgusting.
And if you were sensible and have a pair of those thin gloves I would use them .. the dissolved grease really gets into your skin and stinks.
-Once you have removed the the black-coloured plate with the numbers on it, everything becomes more obvious.
Have fun
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I was successful in unfreezing everything!!! I am so happy. Thanks everyone for your help.
Unfortunately, in the process, I broke the condenser's plastic slide. Oh well, it could be worse.
Now quick question, what would happen if I used light oil vs grease on the sliding surfaces? Is the only inconvenience the damping action?
Unfortunately, in the process, I broke the condenser's plastic slide. Oh well, it could be worse.
Now quick question, what would happen if I used light oil vs grease on the sliding surfaces? Is the only inconvenience the damping action?
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
I warned you... So you lost some gear tooth? How badly?
There are places where there should be high-viscous grease e.g. the coarse focus dovetail surfaces. The coarse focus should be tight rather than loose. Light oil is used e.g. in diaphragms. However, when refurbishing my Olympus FH microscope I noticed there was no oil of any kind in the diaphragms and they were the only parts not stuck. So I think it might be a good idea not to oil them at all.
There are places where there should be high-viscous grease e.g. the coarse focus dovetail surfaces. The coarse focus should be tight rather than loose. Light oil is used e.g. in diaphragms. However, when refurbishing my Olympus FH microscope I noticed there was no oil of any kind in the diaphragms and they were the only parts not stuck. So I think it might be a good idea not to oil them at all.
Re: LOMO biolam C1
I second that. Diaphragm blades should be dry.Leitzcycler wrote: ↑Sat Aug 28, 2021 10:33 amHowever, when refurbishing my Olympus FH microscope I noticed there was no oil of any kind in the diaphragms and they were the only parts not stuck. So I think it might be a good idea not to oil them at all.
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Re: LOMO biolam C1
A couple of teeth indeed top position. I think I will have to push to get the condenser down now.
But I understand that I will mostly leave the condenser on top position anyway.
But I understand that I will mostly leave the condenser on top position anyway.