
apochronaut you once mentioned a toric condenser, this might be similar?
I'll try to adopt it on BHS. Although I'm not sure what is the purpose of the brass thing, has no lens. Looks like an eyepiece, maybe used for centering?
This is of interest, the rest of the site is great too, thanks for sharing. I think the one in the manual is a bit newer, but the principles are the same.MichaelG. wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 3:57 pmThis should be of interest:
http://microscope.database.free.fr/Acce ... oscopy.pdf
.
MichaelG.
dtsh wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 3:38 pmMy guess on the brass part would be perhaps a funnel stop to reduce the NA on higher NA objectives. The AO darkfield uses one for the 97x/100x objectives and they look similar, though that one appears larger than the AO examples, so might not be the same thing. For the AO ones, there's a field stop at the back of the objective you unthread and replace with the funnel stop.
Thanks, then it is a funnel stop. 1/12 is written on it. It has an RMS thread and an another thread down, so I guess one would put it inside the objective and screw it in the turret. I can't really visualize how it would look like, butapochronaut wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 7:25 pmEither funnel stops or iris diaphragms were employed in order to lower the N.A. for DF. Most companies offered both options, a funnel stop was cheaper and more practical for a dedicated DF microscope and the more expensive iris diaphragm useful where both BF and DF were frequently .
I'll clean it properly and try to print the adapter for BHS and try it out.apochronaut wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 7:25 pmThat should be a very nicely working DF condenser. The older ones had real silvered mirrors.
The standard oil paraboloid, bispheric or cardioid DF condensers usually illuminate about an 800 micron circle, so not even a 20X at a 20mm f.n. That is the reason for the toric lens. It spreads the illumination out to about 2000 microns.imkap wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 11:35 pmThis is of interest, the rest of the site is great too, thanks for sharing. I think the one in the manual is a bit newer, but the principles are the same.MichaelG. wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 3:57 pmThis should be of interest:
http://microscope.database.free.fr/Acce ... oscopy.pdf
.
MichaelG.dtsh wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 3:38 pmMy guess on the brass part would be perhaps a funnel stop to reduce the NA on higher NA objectives. The AO darkfield uses one for the 97x/100x objectives and they look similar, though that one appears larger than the AO examples, so might not be the same thing. For the AO ones, there's a field stop at the back of the objective you unthread and replace with the funnel stop.Thanks, then it is a funnel stop. 1/12 is written on it. It has an RMS thread and an another thread down, so I guess one would put it inside the objective and screw it in the turret. I can't really visualize how it would look like, butapochronaut wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 7:25 pmEither funnel stops or iris diaphragms were employed in order to lower the N.A. for DF. Most companies offered both options, a funnel stop was cheaper and more practical for a dedicated DF microscope and the more expensive iris diaphragm useful where both BF and DF were frequently .![]()
I'll clean it properly and try to print the adapter for BHS and try it out.apochronaut wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 7:25 pmThat should be a very nicely working DF condenser. The older ones had real silvered mirrors.
I did realize by holding it with my hand on the microscope, that unlike with what I'm used to (Olympus 1.4 with a printed stop, or a Zeiss turret condenser with DF), this one seems to give better image when not too close to the slide. Probably the best image was while I held it 2-3com down. It doesn't have a bottom lens, so maybe that's the reason. I checked for 5minutes, so not much
The main reason I got this was that the my 1.4 condenser doesn't fill the image circle on 3x and 4x objectives and that every speck of dust on top of the condenser is visible while doing DF, hmmm maybe if I'd oil (glycerin) it, it might help... I feel when it is kept a bit lower that the dust won't be visible.
The original condensers (DCD) are very expensive and rare to come by. There was one in Australia a few months ago that sold for 150€ maybe, I thought it was expensive then, but now I realize I missed a good chance
The Zeiss instruction manual recommends that optimization of the condenser height (AFTER contact of the oil drop with the slide)
I didn't find "centering rings" on DCW-W 1.4-1.2. Is that right?apochronaut wrote: ↑Sun Jan 29, 2023 8:00 pmMany but not all DF condensers have centering rings. They are not always that useful as is the case with this condenser, at least the version that I have. Mine is an older version of the " CONDENSOR FÜR DUNKELFELD apert. 1.20, which is likely the minimum aperture, not the maximum.
The centering rings have to have a diameter that is outside the field of view. On some condensors they are smaller and just outside the field of view of the maximum field that the condensor will illuminate. On this one they are much larger and are only useful for a gross alignment. The fine alignment takes place using cues provided by the condensor itself, if the microscope does not have critically centered objectives, and lots of microscopes don't so the condensor needs to be centered for each objective. This is not dissimilar to the requirement for alignment of phase rings only in this case it needs to be done each time an objective is used. Those rings are pretty useless for that.
That's about the only fault that Leitz condensor has and it offers up useful centering cues. If DF is going to be used a lot, it makes sense to parcenter the nosepiece.
As the oiled condensor is raised to make slide contact, there will be a sudden flash of light in the slide at contact. With a 10X objective roughly focused and a small subject unstained slide you can easily center it because the condensor field is less than the microscope field, unless you have unnusually narrow field eyepieces. Old 10X compens eyepieces may have been narrow enough for the condensor field to cover. The 10X objective will display a bright spot of light of about 60% of a 20mm field number ( about 1200 microns across) once oil contact is made. At this time focus the objective accurately. As the condensor is very slowly raised after oil contact, a dark central section about 1/2 the size of the bright spot will be there, getting smaller as the condensor is raised until it disappears. Keep it centered until it vanishes. At this point, check the objective focus again and slowly continue to raise the condenser until the bright spot is brightest and perfectly centered with the objective focused. The condenser will be very close to the slide at this point. it may even lift it, if the oil is too thick, so keeping the slide down is paramount. With thick slides the dark spot may not disappear. I found this condenser works really well with modern thinner slides such as 1mm slides, a bit unusual for an old DF condensor.
With a 20X objective and up that Leitz condensor will illuminate a 20mm field #, again unusual for an old DF condensor.
It is easy to see why having parcentered objectives makes DF a breeze. Otherwise you have to again center the condensor with each objective and each time the condensor is used multiple times.
Never heard of that approach, thanks for the tip! Do you have an image of those shims?apochronaut wrote:Objectives and nosepieces with crappy machining often need to be centered using thin bevelled shims against the objective shoulder, so the objective can be orbitally adjusted. I took an over 120 micron variance out of a 60X Chinese planachro that way.
They are just standard parfocalizing shims. I ended up with a bunch that came from a dealer of various thicknesses. I put a flat file that is wider than 20mm on them and start a bevel on them, finishing on a sandpaper pad.viktor j nilsson wrote: ↑Mon Jan 30, 2023 6:28 pmNever heard of that approach, thanks for the tip! Do you have an image of those shims?apochronaut wrote:Objectives and nosepieces with crappy machining often need to be centered using thin bevelled shims against the objective shoulder, so the objective can be orbitally adjusted. I took an over 120 micron variance out of a 60X Chinese planachro that way.
I didn't notice, mine has entering rings too, thanks for the tip Chas. What microscope are you using your condenser with?
Excellent, many thanks for taking the time to describe your approach.apochronaut wrote: They are just standard parfocalizing shims. I ended up with a bunch that came from a dealer of various thicknesses. I put a flat file that is wider than 20mm on them and start a bevel on them, finishing on a sandpaper pad.
Firstly, I rotate the objectives around the nosepiece to find the position where the two highest magnifications are closest to each other. Usually with quality microscopes there is at least one position where they are very close if not dead on. They can be brought into center if needed, using a tiny amount of bevelled dressing on a very thin shim as above. The other objective receives a similar undressed shim or thereabouts to maintain parfocality. So let's say that the 100X and 40X are parcentered then. I then do the 20, if it is too far off, then the 10. Each gets a shim that is very close in thickness to the others to maintain parfocality. Then the 2, if needed.Then the 4. The critical ones are the two highest and whichever objective is used to align the condenser. On my Diastar for instance, that is the 4X, so the 4, 40 and 100 are critically parcentered. For the 2, 10 and 20, I just used a little strip of aluminum foil on one side between a parfocalizing shim and the objective. Everything is quite close and since I have 3 nosepieces , the DF set never comes out. I have that DF/BF set, a phase contrast/low magnification DF set set and am working on a full glycerin set, which also will be DF capable.
If you have to remove objectives from the nosepiece and put them back, in order to use others, you might consider adhering the parcentering shims to the objective somehow. I haven't thought too much about that. They at least should be marked so they go back in the same holes.