Wild M450 Epizoom for photography

[zzffnn]

So I bought a M450 with epizoom objective just now. This model has permanent 2x ancillary lens attached. NA is about 0.2 at max.

I haven’t decided whether or not I would go for the afocal route for camera, or get “Tim’s” adapter for trinucular adaptation. My subjects (seashells, dead insects and minerals) are not alive, so I am not sure trinocular function is necessary. Any advice? I will open a new thread. I have micro four thirds (Olympus E-M10 mk III), 1.5x crop DSLR (Nikon D500) and full frame (Nikon D750) and prefer to use crop sensors for macro.

Anyone knows how much “Tim’s adapter” would cost? It has no optics, just a plain mechanical adapter. Tim Spauwen is “WildMicro” on YouTube
https://youtu.be/9iwkYaknVzI and “Tim” at GemologyOnline.com ‘s forum: https://www.gemologyonline.com/Forum/ph ... 91&start=0

My subjects of interest are usually 1-20mm in size. Sometimes I will do focus stacking.

If possible, I would like to be able to use M450 with or without the 2x ancillary lens, if it can be safely and easily removed. Anyone knows that it is really non-removable?

[zzffnn]

I don’t have a 3D printer or lots of skill for DIY making a trinocular adapter. Maybe it is better for me to buy one.

I probably don’t need to remove the polarizer behind the eyepiece. I actually may want to partially cross polarizer sometimes (for convenience) for my subjects (some of which are very shinny).

[JWW]

Wish I could help but I've never owned or used the M450, only the M400 and M420. This might help confirm removing the 2x and some other questions you might have. Once there, Ctrl F and search for Wild M450

https://www.savazzi.net/photography/wild-leica-m420.htm

As you probably know, a decent 3D printer is really inexpensive nowadays but then again you need to have CAD skills. That shouldn't be that difficult for you to learn and there are a few free programs out there. I know you could do it, but it will take some time to learn the 3D printer quirks and a CAD program but you'll benefit having those skills down the road for your hobby. Plus tutoring your kids someday. I heard it is tricky to get the upward pointing prism positioned correctly but I have no direct experience, though.

-JW:

[zzffnn]

Thank you, JW. I read that web page last night, when I was considering buy the M450. There isn’t answer to my specific questions there.

I will consider a 3D printer next year, when I finish up my current projects. Sorry good idea with kids.

[Scarodactyl]

The reason to remove the extra polarizer is because your photos and what you see to the eye could end up significantly different. It isn't super hard to remove though, I just careuflly scrape away the epoxy with a paring knife until it pops off.
You absolutely want the trinocular via direct projection, not afocal.

[zzffnn]

The reason to remove the extra polarizer is because your photos and what you see to the eye could end up significantly different. It isn't super hard to remove though, I just careuflly scrape away the epoxy with a paring knife until it pops off.
You absolutely want the trinocular via direct projection, not afocal.

If I use an afocal setup (camera + lens looking into visual 10x eyepiece), then there won’t be such difference. My micro four thirds camera is very light, I think I may try afocal first.

[Scarodactyl]

The eyepieces have a field number of 21, and you'll get more aberrations from the added lenses, vs covering a 27mm aps-c diagonal directly. Really, the trinoc port is worth it. I think I have a writeup about converting it somewhere, you can even do it without bespoke adapters of you don't mind just taping over some holes to keep dust and light out.

[JWW]

Thank you, JW. I read that web page last night, when I was considering buy the M450. There isn’t answer to my specific questions there.

I will consider a 3D printer next year, when I finish up my current projects. Sorry good idea with kids.

Did you purchase the M450, or are you just thinking about it? I think the adapter plate would be super simple to make, even with minimal CAD skills. It should be simple to 3D print too. I'll make it for you if you figure out the design and dimensions on paper. Keep in mind that I know absolutely nothing about the M450. I saw this design on eBay, but I don't know if it works as designed.

-JW:

[JWW]

Here's something else to read when you have time.

https://www.lmscope.com/en/Wild_M450_mi ... er_en.html

-JW:

[zzffnn]

Thank you very much, JW. You are too kind.

I bought the M450 a few hours ago.

I think it is just a plain tube, although I have to figure out its length and location, at the very least. I will ask at photomacrogtaphy.net, once I receive the M450 and make sure it works as intended.

I think the tube’s length is the same for M400, M450 and M420, based on my quick reading. So any Wild M4X0 owner would be able to tell me.

I meant to type “Surely good idea with kids” not “sorry”. I apologize for my typos.

Yes, I did read that web page last night.

[zzffnn]

The reason to remove the extra polarizer is because your photos and what you see to the eye could end up significantly different. It isn't super hard to remove though, I just careuflly scrape away the epoxy with a paring knife until it pops off.
You absolutely want the trinocular via direct projection, not afocal.

Scarodactyl,

What is the length of that tube on your M420, please? I am guessing at NA 0.25 or so, we don’t have to get it exact.

[Scarodactyl]

It's around 4 inches, I can measure it later. I'd recommend just getting a 38mm OD to m42 adapter (this press fits into an internal hole in the m450 after you have removed the top lamp), a few sets of empty m42 spacers and an m42 to m42 helicoid to make an adjustable length tube for your exact camera.

[zzffnn]

It's around 4 inches, I can measure it later. I'd recommend just getting a 38mm OD to m42 adapter (this press fits into an internal hole in the m450 after you have removed the top lamp), a few sets of empty m42 spacers and an m42 to m42 helicoid to make an adjustable length tube for your exact camera.

Very helpful. Thank you! That is also my usual approach when it comes to optics too.

[zzffnn]

What eyepieces would you recommend for the M450, Scarodactyl?

I have the B&L 15x UWF that you sold me and like them quite a bit, though I am guessing I would need 23->30mm adapter to use them on M450?

I remember you said the generic 10x / 22 eyepieces in 30mm diameter are quite good, correct?