MicrobeHunter.com Microscopy Forum

.
Zeiss Planapo 63x/1.4, DIC, 70µm diameter, stacked in Photoshop, Marine sample, Alboran Sea.
.

Wow, very very nice.

Many thanks sinabro

Very nice, sharp and detailed image 75RR.

Thanks janvangastel, was experimenting with direct projection using a 12.5x Kpl

75RR wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 19, 2021 7:16 am

... was experimenting with direct projection using a 12.5x Kpl

.

Very effectively !!

MichaelG.

very attractive image !
Is the 12.5X KPL raised above parfocality height ?
Is it a 12.5x -W high eyepoint KPL ?

.
Thanks MichaelG. and Hobbyst46

Is the 12.5X KPL raised above parfocality height ?
Is it a 12.5x -W high eyepoint KPL ?

Raised 10mm by the collar shown. High eyepoint (as indicated by the eyeglass pictogram) but believe field of view is 18mm
.

75RR wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 19, 2021 1:10 pm

.
Thanks MichaelG. and Hobbyst46

Is the 12.5X KPL raised above parfocality height ?
Is it a 12.5x -W high eyepoint KPL ?

Raised 10mm by the collar shown. High eyepoint (as indicated by the eyeglass pictogram) but believe field of view is 18mm
.

Great shot!

Why do you need the collar exactly? What happens if you don't use it?

Thanks Wes

An eyepiece is designed to send a virtual image that needs a lens (afocal or an eye) to convert it into a real one.

By raising the eyepiece it produces instead a real image that can then be projected directly onto the camera sensor.

This is to try to improve sharpness and detail (closer to what I see though the eyepieces) and also to get rid of an annoying hot-spot that refuses to go away.
https://krebsmicro.com/parfocal/index.html

fantastic image !!! woaw !!!

Hi Glen,
great image!
Concerning eyepiece projection: Can you post an image of an object micrometer to show how well this works towards the borders?
Rolf Vossen has recently posted an article on the use of hybrid eyepieces as projectives. I have taken part in the experiments and found this to be a very promising method. For your M43 camera the lenses of a KPL 10x non-high eyepoint mounted on the barrel of the KPL 8x non-high-eyepoint should give good colour correction and good use of the image circle.

Bob

75RR wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 19, 2021 4:03 pm

Thanks Wes

An eyepiece is designed to send a virtual image that needs a lens (afocal or an eye) to convert it into a real one.

By raising the eyepiece it produces instead a real image that can then be projected directly onto the camera sensor.

This is to try to improve sharpness and detail (closer to what I see though the eyepieces) and also to get rid of an annoying hot-spot that refuses to go away.
https://krebsmicro.com/parfocal/index.html

Thanks, I get strong chromatic aberration especially around the edges when I tried direct projection without lifting the eyepiece.

Wes wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:01 pm

I get strong chromatic aberration especially around the edges when I tried direct projection without lifting the eyepiece.

Hi Wes, in this case you will have changed the objective's focus, right? This is not a good method as the objectie is not used as intended.

Bob

.
Many thanks chrisimbee and MicroBob

MicroBob wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 22, 2021 6:49 pm

For your M43 camera the lenses of a KPL 10x non-high eyepoint mounted on the barrel of the KPL 8x non-high-eyepoint should give good colour correction and good use of the image circle.

That was an interesting article: https://microscopyofnature.com/micropho ... -eyepieces

Thought it was 8x lenses inside a 10x eyepiece. i.e. further apart than normal

Will have a go if and when I pick up the required eyepieces

I compared Rolf's hybrid eyepieces ( eye lens KPL 10x, barrel KPL 8x, field lens either KPL 8x or KPL 10x) to a lifted standard KPL 8x: The hybrids give a much better image. So Rolf really had an ingenious idea here, especially since the hybrids consist of fairly common components. Neither of us has tested the KPL 12,5x, so it might be nice in lifted position as it is.

MicroBob wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 22, 2021 8:00 pm

I compared Rolf's hybrid eyepieces ( eye lens KPL 10x, barrel KPL 8x, field lens either KPL 8x or KPL 10x) to a lifted standard KPL 8x: The hybrids give a much better image. So Rolf really had an ingenious idea here, especially since the hybrids consist of fairly common components. Neither of us has tested the KPL 12,5x, so it might be nice in lifted position as it is.

Certainly worth comparing the hybrids to the 12.5x as the results look very good.

Have been keeping an eye out for Zeiss 8x and 10x eyepieces but have not had any luck so far.

Will post my finding when I do. Thanks again for posting that link!

Your setup seems to be working well, as it would be hard not to be pretty happy with that image! Beautiful.

MicroBob wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:15 pm

Wes wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:01 pm

I get strong chromatic aberration especially around the edges when I tried direct projection without lifting the eyepiece.

Hi Wes, in this case you will have changed the objective's focus, right? This is not a good method as the objectie is not used as intended.

Bob

What I did was to make sure the view from the photoport is parfocal with that of the eyepieces of the binocular head. Then I either try afocal projection, which works quite well, but if I remove the camera objective and try to direct project onto its sensor I get a much worse image. Which is why I was wondering how people get such good results with direct projection, if I have to lift the eyepiece then it won't be parfocal anymore and I'd have to compensate by changing objective focus.

Wes wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 23, 2021 6:06 am

MicroBob wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:15 pm

Wes wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:01 pm

I get strong chromatic aberration especially around the edges when I tried direct projection without lifting the eyepiece.

Hi Wes, in this case you will have changed the objective's focus, right? This is not a good method as the objectie is not used as intended.

Bob

What I did was to make sure the view from the photoport is parfocal with that of the eyepieces of the binocular head. Then I either try afocal projection, which works quite well, but if I remove the camera objective and try to direct project onto its sensor I get a much worse image. Which is why I was wondering how people get such good results with direct projection, if I have to lift the eyepiece then it won't be parfocal anymore and I'd have to compensate by changing objective focus.

When one lifts a normal eyepiece and effectively converts it into a homemade projection eyepiece, the procedure is to first make it parfocal with the binocular eyepieces, then lift it by using a collar.

Focus is achieved by moving the camera sensor either up or down depending on the amount of lift.

.
Thanks ScienceMatters, I am happy with it. It is just that for me, part of the fun is seeing how far I can get.

75RR wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 23, 2021 6:59 am

Wes wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 23, 2021 6:06 am

MicroBob wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:15 pm

Hi Wes, in this case you will have changed the objective's focus, right? This is not a good method as the objectie is not used as intended.

Bob

What I did was to make sure the view from the photoport is parfocal with that of the eyepieces of the binocular head. Then I either try afocal projection, which works quite well, but if I remove the camera objective and try to direct project onto its sensor I get a much worse image. Which is why I was wondering how people get such good results with direct projection, if I have to lift the eyepiece then it won't be parfocal anymore and I'd have to compensate by changing objective focus.

When one lifts a normal eyepiece and effectively converts it into a homemade projection eyepiece, the procedure is to first make it parfocal with the binocular eyepieces, then lift it by using a collar.

Focus is achieved by moving the camera sensor either up or down depending on the amount of lift.

One phototube that I have allows me to regulate the parfocality by adjusting the distance between objective and eyepiece.


The other phototube only allows me to adjust the distance between the camera lens/sensor and the eyepiece.


I have the feeling that I could in principle use the first one but I'd need an extra accessory for regulating the eyepiece-sensor distance.

Hi Wes,
I had the same decision when doing this adaptation for my Phomi. I chose the second tube. A normal eyepiece is parfocal when it sits in place, no adjustment needed. I made an adapter Zeiss tube dovetail to Sony e-mount. Since the Phomi has a built in tube factor of 1,25 I want to make best use of the image circle. For this I looked for a combination on hybrid-eyepiece lift and eyepiece - sensor distance that gives a parfocal imagewith best coverage. Right now I use a full hybrid (KLP 10x non-high eyepoint lenses on KPL 8x non-high eyepoint barrel) with 3,8mm lift and a camera distance of maybe 9cm.

Bob

75RR wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 23, 2021 7:02 am

.
Thanks ScienceMatters, I am happy with it. It is just that for me, part of the fun is seeing how far I can get.

By all means, keep going... so the rest of us can benefit!