DSLR issue
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DSLR issue
I have to admit I'm out of practice with photomicrography, but I was trying out a 40x/0.85 inf pan fluor lens on the Amscope T720 using a diatom strew. It's set up to use my Canon 1100d (Rebel T3) for imaging. Everything is ok except that my images seem to be coming out with a violet/purple colour cast. The T720 uses LED lighting and I thought it might be to do with that. Neither 'Auto' or the other built-in white balance options gave good results. So I thought I'd try a custom colour balance which I did via Liveview. But the output still came out with a violet tinge. It must be something obvious! But not sure what. I tried with a 10x pan fluor but about the same. Any ideas, suggestions?
Here is a crop from the 40x:
Or is it just my eyes??
Thanks for any input
Louise
Here is a crop from the 40x:
Or is it just my eyes??
Thanks for any input
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: DSLR issue
I don't see a violet tinge, just typical axial CA. Could it be that your monitor has gotten off calibration?
Re: DSLR issue
What projection method do you use? Afocal or direct projection?
Zeiss Photomicroscope III BF/DF/Pol/Ph/DIC/FL/Jamin-Lebedeff
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Re: DSLR issue
HiScarodactyl wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 4:47 pmI don't see a violet tinge, just typical axial CA. Could it be that your monitor has gotten off calibration?
Um what is 'axial CA' ? It's actually not an all-over tinge - just in certain places like the flat area in the centre of the central diatom.
It seems to be independent of the monitor. Here is a crop of the crop with increased saturation enhancing violet and green
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: DSLR issue
It's an infinity microscope so direct projection after the tube lens. I'm not sure whether there are any additional optics after the tube lens. The view through the oculars doesn't show any tinge.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: DSLR issue
Thats interesting, I thought direct projection largely eliminates CA, not sure about axial CA tho. You can eliminate the magenta and greens with photo editing software but I suspect you want to eliminate it at the source.
Zeiss Photomicroscope III BF/DF/Pol/Ph/DIC/FL/Jamin-Lebedeff
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Re: DSLR issue
Yeah, I wasn't expecting CA with a hq plan fluor but the fact that I don't see any via the oculars made me think it was the camera. Alternatively, maybe the Amscope tube lens isn't so good? Hmm... Or is there an extra lens in the trinocular optical pathway? I actually removed the original trinocular tube because it wasn't any good for connecting a dslr. Maybe I'll try and connect the camera via an ocular port to see if I can get a better image.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: DSLR issue
It's what you're seeing. There are two kinds of chromatic aberration, color separation horizontally (lateral ca) and color separation axially (ie towards or away from your eye). It's typically this purple and green color vs the more classic red blue lateral ca.
Fluorites are often better corrected for lateral than axial ca, and they can vary a lot in quality. It's also possible that the eyepieces and/or tube lens on your scope are compensating to some degree. That would take experimentation to figure out.
On the systems it is appropriate on direct projection mitigates the possibility of extra added CA from relay optics but it doesn't eliminate CA already present in the objective's image. Axial CA is notoriously harder to remove witb software than lateral though that eill vary with the subject.
Last edited by Scarodactyl on Sat Sep 17, 2022 6:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: DSLR issue
Ok but I don't see it when observing via the oculars so it must be something in the camera pathway? I'll do some tests/experiments tomorrow to try and narrow it down.Scarodactyl wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 6:27 pmIt's what you're seeing. There are two kinds of chromatic aberration, color separation horizontally (lateral ca) and color separation axially (ie towards or away from your eye). It's typically this purple and green color vs the more classic red blue lateral ca.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 4:56 pmHiScarodactyl wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 4:47 pmI don't see a violet tinge, just typical axial CA. Could it be that your monitor has gotten off calibration?
Um what is 'axial CA' ?
Fluorites are often better corrected for lateral than axial ca.
Thanks
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: DSLR issue
I believe it is the LED light.
Occasionally I observed my diatom slides under halogen light, and there were no purple fringes.
Under my current LED, there are fringes, especially under oblique light. I will try and post an example.
But, diatoms are not the best demonstrators of CA. The diatom frustule does all funny things with light - scattering, refraction, dispersion etc. When in doubt, I would suggest to inspect the simplest target - a stage micrometer. There, CA - if present - is obvious.
Occasionally I observed my diatom slides under halogen light, and there were no purple fringes.
Under my current LED, there are fringes, especially under oblique light. I will try and post an example.
But, diatoms are not the best demonstrators of CA. The diatom frustule does all funny things with light - scattering, refraction, dispersion etc. When in doubt, I would suggest to inspect the simplest target - a stage micrometer. There, CA - if present - is obvious.
Re: DSLR issue
Here is an example.
The same diatom was imaged with a plain (non phase contrast) 40X0.75 Neofluar objective.
Afocal photography, my previous 6500K LED light, filtered through a KR12 amber filter (my present light is 4000K, high CR LED).
One image is brightfield, the other oblique.
Both images were considerably cropped. Also done - slight tweaking of the brightness and contrast, simultaneously on both photos.
The same diatom was imaged with a plain (non phase contrast) 40X0.75 Neofluar objective.
Afocal photography, my previous 6500K LED light, filtered through a KR12 amber filter (my present light is 4000K, high CR LED).
One image is brightfield, the other oblique.
Both images were considerably cropped. Also done - slight tweaking of the brightness and contrast, simultaneously on both photos.
- Attachments
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- 40X0.75 Neofluar, BF, white light - Diatom 2.JPG (102.06 KiB) Viewed 4039 times
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- 40X0.75 Neofluar, OBL, white light.JPG (113.9 KiB) Viewed 4039 times
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Re: DSLR issue
HiyaHobbyst46 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 7:50 pmI believe it is the LED light.
Occasionally I observed my diatom slides under halogen light, and there were no purple fringes.
Under my current LED, there are fringes, especially under oblique light. I will try and post an example.
But, diatoms are not the best demonstrators of CA. The diatom frustule does all funny things with light - scattering, refraction, dispersion etc. When in doubt, I would suggest to inspect the simplest target - a stage micrometer. There, CA - if present - is obvious.
The LED illumination certainly could be a factor. But I still wonder why it only shows up on camera images and not when viewing via the oculars. The T720 has Kohler so the illumination should be even. Having said that, I'll have to checkout my trinocular adapter to make sure the camera sensor is aligned. I'll also have a look via the trinocular with an eyepiece.
Thanks
Louise
ps hope you are well
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: DSLR issue
My camera too registers more CA than I do. Try fiddling with white balance a bit.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 9:15 pmHiya
The LED illumination certainly could be a factor. But I still ....
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Re: DSLR issue
Yep, that's pretty much the same as I'm getting on my images. I know what you mean about diatom-induced aberrations! I wasn't looking for it - I was just checking out the 40x/0.85 plan fluor I got from China (at relatively great expense!). So was having a critical look at the image quality and resolution. I did set up scale bars yesterday and didn't notice any CA on the micrometer slide image. It's on another computer but will post an image of it tomorrow.Hobbyst46 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 8:12 pmHere is an example.
The same diatom was imaged with a plain (non phase contrast) 40X0.75 Neofluar objective.
Afocal photography, my previous 6500K LED light, filtered through a KR12 amber filter (my present light is 4000K, high CR LED).
One image is brightfield, the other oblique.
Both images were considerably cropped. Also done - slight tweaking of the brightness and contrast, simultaneously on both photos.
Thanks
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: DSLR issue
Hiyaimkap wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 9:21 pmMy camera too registers more CA than I do. Try fiddling with white balance a bit.LouiseScot wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 9:15 pmHiya
The LED illumination certainly could be a factor. But I still ....
Um, see my original post!
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: DSLR issue
It's interesting that the violet color stood oit to you but not the equal and opposite green also present in tbe imagr. There might still be a screen issue of some sort that's making that color more apparent.
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Re: DSLR issue
Ah, there was more green too, originally, but that lessened after I did the custom white balance. The white balance was why I posted in the first place because I thought the issues were down to the Canon 1100d. Further experimentation and tests required!Scarodactyl wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 9:55 pmIt's interesting that the violet color stood oit to you but not the equal and opposite green also present in tbe imagr. There might still be a screen issue of some sort that's making that color more apparent.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: DSLR issue
Is your camera parfocal with the eyepieces?
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Re: DSLR issue
Almost! Though I fine focus the camera image via the laptop screen anyway I'll be having a closer look at things today.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: DSLR issue
In case it is far from parfocal you use the objective with the wrong distance to the object. In some cases not much happens, in other cases the image suffers a lot.
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Re: DSLR issue
Hi
I did some fine tuning earlier to make sure the camera sensor is as parfocal with the oculars as possible. It was very close anyway.
I've done some other checks and found that I could see the purple aberration in some places by using a 25x EP which naturally gave a bigger image of the diatom I'd centred on (40 x 25 = 1000). I get the same effect with the EP positioned above the trinocular path. So, it's either intrinsic to the microscope/objective (rather than anything to do with the camera) or it's an artifact of the particular slide/diatom. I'll try some other slides and double check the micrometer image!
Thanks
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: DSLR issue
A quick update! (where does all the time go??) Anyway, I decided to try the 40x plan fluor on my DIY rail system. However, that was somewhat in pieces as I'd been working on an epi-illuminator for it . The rail setup generally still needs some, erm, enhancements etc. but is just about useable. It's essentially monocular but with either EP or camera attached. It's fitted with a Fujifilm X-T30 APS-C mirrorless camera, and which is 22-26 MPixels with 3.74 um pixels.
A first try seems to show a little less CA than on the AmScope T720 with the Canon:
Maybe less green with the Fuji/rail?
I can't easily tell how much is due to the differences between cameras and/or microscopes. I can fit a 40x CFI60 Plan Fluor and/or a 20x CFI60 plan Apo to the rail nosepiece so will compare them when I get a chance.
Louise
A first try seems to show a little less CA than on the AmScope T720 with the Canon:
Maybe less green with the Fuji/rail?
I can't easily tell how much is due to the differences between cameras and/or microscopes. I can fit a 40x CFI60 Plan Fluor and/or a 20x CFI60 plan Apo to the rail nosepiece so will compare them when I get a chance.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: DSLR issue
That does look significantly better!
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Re: DSLR issue
I confess I did to some peak alignment in levels though I did the same with T720 image anyway. I'll post again, when I can, with some comparisons using the Nikons.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: DSLR issue
Here are a couple of images I took using the Nikon CFI60 40x/0.75 Plan Fluor on the DIY rail with the Fuji X-T30. I have some issues with the rail in that it's hypersensitive to movement especially since I moved it to a different location in my living room. Needs some fettling and engineering. I might try moving it again - it might just be a floorboards issue! Anyway, I think the images have come out pretty much the same as the Chinese 40x/0.75 Plan Fluor. Some purple fringing but little green on my DIY rail system with LED lighting. My conclusion is that the Chinese 40x plan fluor is ok but the issues I thought I had on the AmScope T720 / Canon DSLR could possibly be intrinsic to the T720 stand optics - I'm not sure how much the tube lens might contribute.
The above pics are heavily cropped from the original 6240 x 3512 frames so pushing the limits. I'm expecting a Chinese UPlanFLN 100x/1.30 in the post soon - better for high resolution sharpness!
Louise
The above pics are heavily cropped from the original 6240 x 3512 frames so pushing the limits. I'm expecting a Chinese UPlanFLN 100x/1.30 in the post soon - better for high resolution sharpness!
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: DSLR issue
Should have bought the Indian planF. You would have saved a fair amount of cash, too.
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Re: DSLR issue
I'm happy with the Chinese one. The Nikon is good too. I wouldn't have bought the Chinese one if I could have fitted the Nikon on the AmScope.apochronaut wrote: ↑Mon Oct 17, 2022 2:05 pmShould have bought the Indian planF. You would have saved a fair amount of cash, too.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
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Re: DSLR issue
I set up a halogen bulb and took some images with the Nikon CFI60 40x just to compare:
Using tungsten halogen illumination definitely changes things a bit! It was a 12v 30W bulb which I actually ran at just over 6V so gave a very warm image. I could have run it at 12V but didn't want things to get too hot!
Anyway, I did some peak aligning and the above was the result.
Louise
Using tungsten halogen illumination definitely changes things a bit! It was a 12v 30W bulb which I actually ran at just over 6V so gave a very warm image. I could have run it at 12V but didn't want things to get too hot!
Anyway, I did some peak aligning and the above was the result.
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo
Re: DSLR issue
I was thinking as I read through the series of posts that your LED and not the DSLR is probably a major culprit here. They often have been for me...
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Re: DSLR issue
Hobbyst46 suggested that in #10 and #11. I'm not completely convinced and I don't exactly understand why it would be. But I'm not ruling it out! I'll try the halogen in the AmScope 720 when I have time later in the week. I see some current Nikon scopes use halogens, others use LED. I wonder if it's the particular LED that can make a difference?
Thanks
Louise
A Nikon CF plan 20x; A Swift 380T; A DIY infinity corrected focus rail system with a 40x/0.65 Olympus Plan, a 10x/0.30 Amscope Plan Fluor, and a 20x/0.75 Nikon Plan Apo