Any experience with a Canon XTi?

[Crater Eddie]

Yes, the EOS Utility is pretty handy, that is what I am using... the remote shooting is a great feature.
Once I get the parfocality straightened out it will be fine, it's just a pain getting it set.
Even with the crude alignment I have here the imaging is so much better than what I had before, this is very encouraging.
CE

[gekko]

Yes, it will be an iterative process to get it parfocal under these conditions. Remember to use your 4x or whatever your lowest magnification objective is (smallest depth of focus), then the others should also be parfocal.

[The QCC]

This is the setup I use with my Canon XS and 5D.
A set of manual macro extension tubes (3 parts) and a photo tube adapter.
The Extension tubes have both Canon adapters, Body to camera and lens. to camera.
The photo tube adapter has a Canon lens adapter.
By using a combination of adapter rings I can achieve a camera that is par-focal with the microscope eyepieces.
Manual macro tubes
Photo tube adapter

Canon camera with macro rings and photo tube adapter

IMG_0124.jpg (158.36 KiB) Viewed 10836 times

[Crater Eddie]

I can see that it would be ideal to have a standardized slide for setting up the focus. Somewhere I have a calibration slide that came with my USB camera, I'll have to dig that out.
The old LOMO MFN-11 trinoc and relay lens are threaded, so the focus could be adjusted by screwing the relay lens in and out. Unfortunately they changed the design on the newer HT-30 trinoc (which I am using now, got a great deal on one), the relay lens is a slip fit with a tightening collar. It goes together and comes apart quickly and easily, but that makes the focus adjustment less convenient. I need some shims or something. I have some O rings that fit, but the thickness isn't quite what I need of course.
CE

Edit:

The QCC, we were typing at the same time apparently.
Thanks for the photo of your setup, I think you had posted that earlier. Mine is similar, though I am using the LOMO VA-F2 relay lens assembly instead of the projection eyepiece setup. I'll try to upload some photos of it tonight.
The camera focus is controlled by the distance between the microscope and the relay lens, the "enlargement" and cropping are controlled by the optics of the relay lens and the distance between the relay lens and the camera. At least that's the way mine works.

Yet another edit a few days later:

I know all this is old hat to many here, I am recording my adventure here for a couple of reasons:

1) It helps me to think things through
2) There is little information on the various LOMO accessories to be found online, hopefully this will help someone else with LOMO gear
3) Input from fellow enthusiasts is very valuable

Ok, that's 3 not 2, but you get my meaning.

[The QCC]

The knurled knob on the photo tube adapter clamps on to the photo tube itself. This allows for adjusting the distance of the camera sensor to the photo eyepiece or relay lens.

The terms relay lens and projection eyepiece are really one and the same. They both provide a proper sized image for the camera sensor.

I have two 2.5x projection eyepieces (Nikon and Meiji) and a relay lens assembly.
The Nikon is best and the relay lens is the worst for image quality and chromatic aberration.

[Crater Eddie]

Understood. I might well end up with something similar eventually. My trinoc came with the matching relay lens, so that's where I started since it didn't cost me any extra.
Your input is much appreciated.
CE

[Crater Eddie]

I played with this quite a bit last night and was able to confirm significant vibration caused by the camera shutter. It's not too bad with the 10x objective, but using the 20x it is definitely a problem. If I want to continue with this camera I'll have to mount the camera independently from the microscope, like some other folks here have done.
CE

[gekko]

I've not tried this, but I think one way of testing for the effect of shutter-induced image blurring would be to take images of, e.g., a diatom, at different shutter speeds, keeping the overall exposure constant and using neutral density filters or adjusting the lamp voltage (recalibrating the camera's WB if using tungsten illumination). Adjust the light level to obtain very slow (1 or 5 seconds) and very fast (1/1000 - 1/4000) shutter speeds to obtain "non-blurry" images, and to obtain "normal" shutter speeds ranging from 1/10 to 1/125 s to see the blurring. Other things should remain constant (condenser aperture, condenser height, etc. being adjusted optimally and kept constant for the different shutter speeds). A green filter, if available, would be good to use. Comparing the full resolution images of the no-blur set (very fast and very slow shutter) with the possible-blur set (1/10 - 1/125 s) may show the amount of blur due to shutter-induced vibration. I think so, anyway.

[75RR]

Hope this link helps: http://www.krebsmicro.com/Canon_EFSC/

[gekko]

Hope this link helps: http://www.krebsmicro.com/Canon_EFSC/

I thought it was established that CE's Canon does not have a "silent" mode. Am I wrong?

[The QCC]

Several Canon DSLR's have the first curtain shutter built in as a feature with Live View.
I have been stating for quite some time, that my Canon 5D MkII and 1000D/XS do not show any mirror / shutter effect.

The 5D is mounted on a 17kg microscope and the 1000d/XS is on a much lighter 5kg microscope.

If you have a Canon DSLR with Live View and are getting vibration effects in your images, I would seriously look at how and with what you are mounting the camera.

[75RR]

Just looked it up.
The Canon EOS 400D / Digital Rebel XTi/ does not have live view.
The next model, the Canon EOS 450D / EOS Rebel XSi does.
Might be best to mount the camera independently from the microscope.

Note: Anything water mounted is subject to increased vibration.

[Crater Eddie]

You are correct Gekko, it does not have silent mode. It does have a "mirror lock up" option, I will try that next, but am not overly optimistic.
The XTi does not have live view, that is the problem. It's just too old.
CE

[The QCC]

A list of Canon cameras with remote shooting AND Live View.

[Crater Eddie]

All right, since we seem to just go around and around in circles in this thread I'll close it here.
Thanks everyone for your participation.

[charlie]

Hi QCC

I am about to add a Canon (as yet not owned) to a Zeiss trifocal. I see that you have had success with direct mounting which I prefer. However, Eddie says he had vibration issues with the Xti he borrowed so I am concerned. Do you have any further news on the issue?

Anyone else is welcome to add their 2 cents also of course! I also wonder how many megapixels you all recommend for a camera.

ps, oops, I reopened the thread Eddie! lol

edit: looking back, I see I missed QCC pretty much answered this with a comment about weight differences and mounting methods. Sorry, I didn't read/absorb the comments well enough. I guess I'l hope for a how many megapixels is enough' answer.

The Canon XTi is a newer version of the Canon XS.
I have an XS mounted on an old B & L.
The Xti has Live View and the Canon EOS Utility supports the XTi in LiveView.
The XS and XTi do not support the silent mode of the higher end Canon cameras.
The mirror action on the XTi and XS is noisy, but there is no vibration effect in the photos.
The XTi will make an excellent microscope camera. The down side is the Canon Utilities is a capture only programme. There are no measurement or processing features. Stacking, measuring, etc. will have to be performed in a other software packages.

IMG_0124.jpg

"

[75RR]

I am about to add a Canon (as yet not owned) to a Zeiss trifocal.

Is the Zeiss owned?

[charlie]

lol In the mail Glen.

[gekko]

I believe the T5i and T6i, etc. have "silent shutter" (electronic first curtain shutter) that is necessary to avoid vibrations. The T3i also, but I would go for the newer models.
Please see this if you haven't already (very informative):
http://www.krebsmicro.com/Canon_EFSC/

[Crater Eddie]

Also, the T5 and the T5i are different models, don't get the 2 confused.
CE

[charlie]

I believe the T5i and T6i, etc. have "silent shutter" (electronic first curtain shutter) that is necessary to avoid vibrations. The T3i also, but I would go for the newer models. Please see this if you haven't already (very informative):
http://www.krebsmicro.com/Canon_EFSC/

Thanks gekko Although they cost more than I want to spend, that article pins it down to those few models. (and above I suppose) (edit: hmm, 40D is only 10MP but not that expensive at least)

Also, the T5 and the T5i are different models, don't get the 2 confused.

Ya, the model number/naming makes my head hurt.

[gekko]

I forgot to say that if you don't get a model with an electronic first curtain shutter, you can still get excellent results if you support the camera so it is not physically touching the microscope. Actually this is what I do with my camera, so that is not a big problem; however although my camera has "live view", it does not support "tethered operation" so I cannot operate (focus, etc.) by looking at the computer monitor which would have been a big help. In other words, if you can support the camera independently, then all you need is a camera with live view that supports "tethered" operation.

[einman]

Hi, I've just looked up the XTi and it looks to me to be an earlier version of cameras like my 1200D...
This camera should I think be very nearly as good as the 1200D if not equal to it for microscopy...

I'm having some very good results now I've got the hang of the Camera->'scope setup and use. The Canon EOS tethering software and editing suite that come free with their cameras are in my experience simply superb. Get the latest versions online they're excellent.

I'm going to post some pictures of my camera-adapter-scope arrangement as soon as I can - I might get it on the forum tonight with a bit of luck.

regards

The EOS software may not work with the Xti.

[Crater Eddie]

This is an old thread that was resurrected by accident. I no longer have the XTi, as it did not support Live View, and vibration from the mirror and shutter were unacceptable.
CE

[charlie]

The EOS software may not work with the Xti.

You are correct. Only 40D, 50D, 5DII, 7D, Rebel XSi/450D, Rebel XS/1000D, and Rebel T1i/500D work. This information came from the link gekko provided. http://www.krebsmicro.com/Canon_EFSC/
Sorry for my goof up on reviving the old thread. arghh