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Can't See Anything in A Drop of Water...
April 15, 2014
14:21
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Have we got a useless microscope or is it bad technique or is it inappropriate usage?

 

We have a cheap 1/2 toy, 1/2 real, I suppose might be the way to describe it, l microscope. Cost about $50 from Australia Post. Bought for the little kids ( 8 and 10 ) for xmas.

Plastic thing.  Marked as having magnifications 200x, 400x, 900.

In fact we've got two of them.  Different brands, slightly different but essentially the same.  The second one goes to 1200x, it says.

 

They work.  We can see the attached specimen slides okay.

 

But we want to see stuff in pond water.  Read so much about it.  Seen so many youtube videos.

 

But we can't see anything!

 

Why? What's wrong?

 

I had some pond water with some  black specks zooming around in it.

 

Put a drop of that on a slide and looked and saw this black beetle like thing.  Seemed to have a slit right down its back like the wing carapace split in two if it were a bigger beetle.  And just one time I fancied I saw some antenna out the front thrashing away in a sort of breast stroke.

But I was never able to reproduce that.

 

So this black thing was most uninteresting because it was so big and black. Just blocked the light. Just a black lump.

 

And the only other 'life' we could see was much smaller specks of whiteness flying around here and there from time to time.

 

No great big protozoa or whatever they are that we see in all that youtube stuff.

 

Like these for instance:

 

which were supposed, if I read it right, to have been viewed at only 325x.

 

What's going on?  Can anyone help?

 

regards,

 

ab

April 15, 2014
20:48
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I don't know about your microscope, but what parts of the pond have you looked at?

In my experience taking a drop of clean-looking water does not often find much, especially if you are somewhere with lots of melting snow. There are certainly protozoa that live in open waters, but usually you need some way to concentrate them, for instance straining them out with a plankton net or setting up cultures. And without obstacles many are too fast to see well.

An easier approach to start is to look where there are lots of little organisms congregating on their own. Tufts or mats of algae are an easy one to recognize and often very worthwhile to view in their own right. Slime from rocks is a good place to find diatoms and things that live with them. Another good source are submerged mosses, and especially any dirt or debris that comes off them.

Looking around little animals like beetles and minnows wasn't a bad idea, since there's plainly some food for them, but then they are eating it and don't always leave a lot. I've found neat things looking around them where prey might be sheltered – in bottom debris, nearby mats and films, and so on.

I hope some of those ideas might help. Best of luck!

April 15, 2014
21:20
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That video you embedded was made with a microscope setup costing thousands of dollars and using a very sophisticated lighting technique (differential interference contrast). Sorry, but there is just no way to duplicate that with the equipment you now have. On the other hand, you should be able to see some one celled creatures with your scope if you have everything adjusted just right.

April 15, 2014
23:22
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Hi AB,

You don't say how you collected your sample or how it looked.  If you scooped a jar of clear water from the body of the pond then you probably have only water.  You need some life in your water, include some mud from the bottom especially if it is producing bubbles, green slimy stuff from rocks etc., include plenty of the clear water you are trying to duplicate the pond in miniature.

When you first view your sample do not be too disappointed if you can't find much life it can take a few days for the sample to settle down and the community of protists to reorganise themselves.

Collecting samples is a learnt skill, practice and careful observation will guide you to finding interesting organisms.

Good luck.

Peter.

April 15, 2014
23:22
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Hi AB,

You don't say how you collected your sample or how it looked.  If you scooped a jar of clear water from the body of the pond then you probably have only water.  You need some life in your water, include some mud from the bottom especially if it is producing bubbles, green slimy stuff from rocks etc., include plenty of the clear water you are trying to duplicate the pond in miniature.

When you first view your sample do not be too disappointed if you can't find much life it can take a few days for the sample to settle down and the community of protists to reorganise themselves.

Collecting samples is a learnt skill, practice and careful observation will guide you to finding interesting organisms.

Good luck.

Peter.

April 16, 2014
00:07
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Peter makes an excellent point – You have to collect the pond water in a way that scoops up lots of microorganisms. If you just dip some water, you may get few or none of them. Also, I'm going to guess that you will do better avoiding the highest magnification of your scope and going with 200X and 400X which is plenty of magnification to see lots of pond water creatures. Hope this helps.

April 19, 2014
02:45
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 Okay, thanks very much for the replies.

 So it is bad technique is the problem, mainly.

 

325x it said for that video.  I've seen some that say things like 60x.  But those lower magnifications quoted I suspect apply to only one lens – the total magnification much more?

 

So the question I should ask is:  What magnifications do we need to see typical pondlife?

 

I've collected more samples and managed to get some really stinky black mud and even some green slime.  Good?

Surprisingly hard around here to find that sort of thing.

 

I've been wanting to view Daphnia. That's what started this whole thing really. And I read Daphnia range from 1mm – 6mm.  So I'd expect to find them clearly visible.  But I've failed to find any at all as yet.  Any advice?

 

We do see many tiny – maybe 1/4mm at a guess – white specks flying around in the water we collect. But I fail to see them under the microscope so I still don't know what they are.  Any suggestions?

 

I can well believe the importance of collecting and preparing samples. I never ran across a job yet that didn't depend heavily on preparation.  And ours hasn't been good.  We're working on it.  Can still use advice, for instance:

 

We collect water samples – how can we best keep them and for how long?

 

I currently have them in empty plastic peanut butter jars (and suchlike) outside on the seed tray bench which is under a shadecloth.  Every couple of days I add some green water from the outside goldfish pond (which is merely an old cast iron bathtub) in the belief/hope that this will provide some food for whatever organisms I might have there.

And I have buckets of water of various origins, collected here and there.

And a bucket of rainwater.  I aerate the rainwater bucket from time to time with a little aquarium pump that sprays six streams of water across the surface.  Then I use that water to top up my buckets and my little plastic pots in the hope that this will provide enough oxygen for organisms to survive.

And (phew, lastly) I pour water from the little pots and from the buckets from one to another when I have one that seems very lively – many of those white specks zooming around, maybe some tiny black specks – in the hopes of spreading the 'life' around so's I'll end up with much.

A hoped for goal being buckets of Daphia I can feed the goldfish on.  I wonder if that's possible?

 

And here's a cheap new microscope I've found.  Would this appear to be worth a couple of hundred dollars or would the money be better spent elsewhere?

 

Model : RM-3LED
Stand: Stable & Robust assembled from Die Cast Aluminum Parts
Nose piece: Quadruple revolving with positive centering & click stops
Illumination: Mirror & LED Cordless Rechargeable Lamp
Objectives: SEMI PLAN JIS 10x, 40x Spring Loaded, 100x OIL SL
Eyepieces: WF 10x & 15x
Mechanical Stage: Detachable Stage 135x120mm, 75x50mm movement
Focusing: Separate Coarse & Fine
Condenser: Abbe NA 1.25 w Diaphragm & Filter Holder
Focus Stopper for Slide protection
Weight: 4 Kgs

 

Model : RM-3LED
Stand: Stable & Robust assembled from Die Cast Aluminum Parts
Nose piece: Quadruple revolving with positive centering & click stops
Illumination: Mirror & LED Cordless Rechargeable Lamp
Objectives: SEMI PLAN  JIS 10x, 40x Spring Loaded, 100x OIL SL
Eyepieces: WF 10x & 15x
Mechanical Stage: Detachable Stage 135x120mm, 75x50mm movement
Focusing: Separate Coarse & Fine
Condenser: Abbe NA 1.25 w Diaphragm & Filter Holder
Focus Stopper for Slide protection
Weight: 4 Kgs
April 19, 2014
20:02
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abrogard said:
many of those white specks zooming around

Those could be daphnia or copepods or similar organisms (just a guess).

And here's a cheap new microscope I've found.  Would this appear to be worth a couple of hundred dollars or would the money be better spent elsewhere?

Hard to tell.  I found a Radical model RM-3LED on ebay and I would not buy it (if it is what you are referring to, it is certainly not worth anywhere near $200 in my view).   Where are you located?  For about $200, I would look into Amscope microscopes (directly, or through Amazon.com), or if you are located in Europe, Bresser (you can look at the excellent images obtained using a Bresser microscope posted on the forum by Vassalle).  In the UK, I would also look into Brunel microscopes. At least that is my opinion for what it is worth.

Just as an example, http://www.amscope.com/b120c.html from Amscope (but there are very similar or identical ones sold by different sellers) is a binocular scope for $200 that I think I would be reasonably happy with, assuming that you are looking for something in that price range.  Again, just my opinion for what it is worth.

April 19, 2014
21:10
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Hi AB,

Daphnia are like gold, they are where you find them.  I have only found Daphnia twice, one approximately six mm species and one approximately one mm species, they also seem to be very transient.

The "white specks" you see "flying around in the water" must be able to be viewed under the microscope.  If one (or more) is sucked up in a pipette and placed on a slide with a small drop of water then trapped under a coverslip it should be rendered immobile and view-able, with practice (and luck) you will have the drop size right to immobilise the organism without actually crushing it

"stinky black mud" may have a lot of bacteria (but not much else) which a cheep microscope will struggle to resolve, partly because of their diminutive size and also their low contrast.

Topping up samples with rain water (or even tap water) is fine, however mixing from one sample to another may well be counter productive.  If one sample has a deadly bacteria, or apical predator and you spread these to the other samples you may winde up with little to view.

Daphnia can be used as fish food, some pet shops do it; so the easiest way would probably be approach a pet shop, purchase some Daphnia, and obtain advice on how to maintain a Daphnia culture.

I don't know about the microscope in your post, I would suggest you try before you buy.  Also you haven't listed (what I consider the most important thing) the numerical index of the objectives.

Hope this helps.

Peter.

April 19, 2014
23:30
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10

Daphnia proper are supposed to prefer open water, so again there is a question of collection. I also haven't seen them often.

However, you might also look around floating plants for their ephippia, which are adhesive and relatively easy to spot; they look a bit like black sesame seeds. Those I have seen a few times in very early spring and hatch as soon as the water starts warming up. So if you are attentive, you might get to not just see Daphnia but watch them leave the eggs.

I'm not sure about giving them to fish, and will second Peter's suggestion that you check with a pet shop. Their stock would obviously have started from wild specimens at some point, but I can say from experience that in these little closed habitats parasites and pathogens can be absolutely horrible, so you would want to have a trustworthy source.

May 13, 2014
05:29
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December 25, 2013
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Thank you for those posts.

Sorry I didn't get back earlier.

I've been chattering away on Yahoo Groups.

I've bought a Nikon Model G and have been busy getting it working.

And I have had numerous strange computer difficulties…

And I've been chasing a plethora of microscope forums and websites and whatnot…

So I've learned a lot and made some progress.

 

But I'm still full of questions…

Like, for instance, why do they mark microscope pictures with something like '40x' – that being the size of the objective lens?

Is it because there's some standard size eyepiece lens presumed? 

May 13, 2014
13:56
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Hi abrogard,

Congratulations on your Model G Nikon!  I hope you'll get it working soon, and I'm sure getting it into working order as well as using it once fixed will give you much satisfaction and pleasure.  I think you did well to avoid the RM-3LED. 

abrogard said:
why do they mark microscope pictures with something like '40x' – that being the size of the objective lens?

Is it because there's some standard size eyepiece lens presumed?

I agree completely with you that this practice is confusing and uninformative.  It could mean, as you suggest, that they used either a 40x objective and unspecified eyepiece, or a 4x objective and 10x eyepiece.  Either specification will have little to do with the actual size (or magnification) as viewed on the screen (or on the page of a book).  What many do, including myself, is add a scale bar on the image itself which tells the viewer unambiguously what the actual size of the object is (as well as the actual magnification of the image, which he can obtain by measuring the length of the scale bar on the screen in mm, multiplying that by 1000 and dividing by the actual distance in µm represented by the scale bar).  I do sometimes give, in addition, the magnification of the objective used merely as an indication of the resolution to be expected in the image (since the eyepiece or projection lens has no significant bearing on resolution).  I've seen a few instances of people specifying image magnification in terms of screen pixels per µm or something like that, which are meaningful, but are not nearly as intuitive as a scale bar.

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